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Thread: 24v carter fuel pump overhaul - M220

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    Default 24v carter fuel pump overhaul - M220

    I thought I'd share a few pics of my overhaul of the carter 24v electric fuel pump. The pump just quit working. I picked up a couple kits from the friendly Butch Atkins. I was concerned because it had only the electrical parts. After pulling the pump apart, I see there is nothing else to wear out.

    Very basic. Armature, brushes, rubber isolators, screen, adjusting screw, and a parts diagram form 1951!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '52 XM211 W/W hardtop, heater
    M38A1
    '07 M105A3
    TR-3 Bird Banger
    1966 Chevrolet Biscayne Staff Car -sold
    M105A2 -Utility Trailer Conversion -sold
    '52 M38A1C -sold
    '52 M220 W/W hardtop, heater -Camper Conversion-Sold

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    m1010plowboy (06-21-2012), targhee trucks (06-19-2012)

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    After disconnecting and taping the electricals, I pulled the whole assembly out of the fuel tank. Take the bolts out and pry it up with a prybar. It was kind of stubborn. You can see there is a rubber grommet at the bottom that holds the assembly secure. Mine took some effort to get broken loose.

    I had to "re-machine" the screws that hold the stone filters in place with a hacksaw. Then I could back them out.

    Push the grommet in. It holds the 2 pieces of the housing together.

    Then slide the housing apart.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '52 XM211 W/W hardtop, heater
    M38A1
    '07 M105A3
    TR-3 Bird Banger
    1966 Chevrolet Biscayne Staff Car -sold
    M105A2 -Utility Trailer Conversion -sold
    '52 M38A1C -sold
    '52 M220 W/W hardtop, heater -Camper Conversion-Sold

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    I decided to back out the screws that secure the rubber isolators. I found it best to take them all the way out. It is misleading because the isolators were loose. The screws were longer than I thought and just burried in the rubber like a set screw. Stick an awl in the rubber and pry it out. Mine were distorted and stuck good.

    I had to take the brass fittings off as well and disconnect both ends of the tube to get the pump out. The brass fittings are compression with rubber seals inside so be careful.

    The braided wire is the ground. The power wire is inside. I did not take it off the pump. I did have to remove the other end. The end is enclosed inside a housing that is secured with 4 ea 1/4" bolts. Removal will expose the connection.

    Once that is all off the pump can be removed.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '52 XM211 W/W hardtop, heater
    M38A1
    '07 M105A3
    TR-3 Bird Banger
    1966 Chevrolet Biscayne Staff Car -sold
    M105A2 -Utility Trailer Conversion -sold
    '52 M38A1C -sold
    '52 M220 W/W hardtop, heater -Camper Conversion-Sold

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    I must say, be careful if you decide to take the wire off the pump. The nut is secured with a set screw on the side and there are rubber isolators/seals inside and some tension. Just enough crap to make it hard to get threaded back on. Threads are VERY fine and easily cross threaded.

    Pull the top off, remove the armature. I see burn marks on the armature!

    Disconnect the wire and remove the 3 screws holding the screen.

    Remove the 2 screws holding the screen that surrounds the impeller.

    Flip it over and remove the bottom. Pay attention to the slot on the bottom of the armature and how it fits in the impeller. There is also a tine steel ball on the bottom of the impeller that acts like a bearing.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '52 XM211 W/W hardtop, heater
    M38A1
    '07 M105A3
    TR-3 Bird Banger
    1966 Chevrolet Biscayne Staff Car -sold
    M105A2 -Utility Trailer Conversion -sold
    '52 M38A1C -sold
    '52 M220 W/W hardtop, heater -Camper Conversion-Sold

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    Here is the good news. Both brushes were broken and one wire burned off. Armature was scored as well. Last pic is new brushes and rubber isolator/mounts.

    Notice the brushes do not interchange. That one with the D shape end is tough to keep in and install the threaded cap. Use something round and flat like a 1/4" rod to get it in place. Then stick your awl in there and turn it slightly to "jamb" it in place while you screw on the cap. -Remember this later!


    It is comforting to actually find the problem.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by hendersond; 06-19-2012 at 04:50.
    '52 XM211 W/W hardtop, heater
    M38A1
    '07 M105A3
    TR-3 Bird Banger
    1966 Chevrolet Biscayne Staff Car -sold
    M105A2 -Utility Trailer Conversion -sold
    '52 M38A1C -sold
    '52 M220 W/W hardtop, heater -Camper Conversion-Sold

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    Assembly turned out to be a stinker.

    Use a 1/2" wrench and remove the nut and threaded adjuster on top of the housing. This is what adjusts the endplay.

    I installed the new screen and tightened the electrical connection. I placed the armature inside the main body and assembled the top. There was a catch on every revolution. At first i thought it was the preservative so I hit the high spots with a file, but I later found there was a small casting flaw on the new armature. I must have assembled it 6-8 times before I figured it out.

    I just had to file the right spot.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by hendersond; 06-19-2012 at 14:26.
    '52 XM211 W/W hardtop, heater
    M38A1
    '07 M105A3
    TR-3 Bird Banger
    1966 Chevrolet Biscayne Staff Car -sold
    M105A2 -Utility Trailer Conversion -sold
    '52 M38A1C -sold
    '52 M220 W/W hardtop, heater -Camper Conversion-Sold

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    4 Star General hendersond's Avatar
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    Once you get that far put the bottom together. Align the impeller with the groove in the armature and gently tighten the screws. The impeller will rub on the housing at this time, but it should not bind. Keep checking the impeller is free by turning the impeller with an awl from above.

    You can now screw in the new endplay adjusting screw and adjust it to specs. the impeller should no longer rub. (I don't know the exact specs, see your manual)

    You can see the jamb nut and adjuster on top.

    Now you can install the brushes as previously described.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by hendersond; 06-19-2012 at 04:53.
    '52 XM211 W/W hardtop, heater
    M38A1
    '07 M105A3
    TR-3 Bird Banger
    1966 Chevrolet Biscayne Staff Car -sold
    M105A2 -Utility Trailer Conversion -sold
    '52 M38A1C -sold
    '52 M220 W/W hardtop, heater -Camper Conversion-Sold

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    As I was putting the assembly back together, I thought it wise to take it to the truck and test it before going further. It worked as expected. Easier to fix now that drain fuel and remove the tank again. It is best to test before assembling the 2 housings and stone filters.

    Assemble everything else with new gaskets and paint it up.

    Thank You Butch Atkins!

    .
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by hendersond; 06-19-2012 at 05:13.
    '52 XM211 W/W hardtop, heater
    M38A1
    '07 M105A3
    TR-3 Bird Banger
    1966 Chevrolet Biscayne Staff Car -sold
    M105A2 -Utility Trailer Conversion -sold
    '52 M38A1C -sold
    '52 M220 W/W hardtop, heater -Camper Conversion-Sold

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to hendersond For This Useful Post:

    T4bergie (06-20-2012)

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    Where can I get a rebuild kit?

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    You can try Butch Atkins on the forum, but I think he may have sold me the last one????? Otherwise I see one on Ebay. Search "Carter P604s"
    '52 XM211 W/W hardtop, heater
    M38A1
    '07 M105A3
    TR-3 Bird Banger
    1966 Chevrolet Biscayne Staff Car -sold
    M105A2 -Utility Trailer Conversion -sold
    '52 M38A1C -sold
    '52 M220 W/W hardtop, heater -Camper Conversion-Sold

  13. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to hendersond For This Useful Post:

    1944mb (09-05-2016), Aromas Roger (06-12-2018), Merle (06-04-2017)

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