24v carter fuel pump overhaul - M220

[hendersond]

I thought I'd share a few pics of my overhaul of the carter 24v electric fuel pump. The pump just quit working. I picked up a couple kits from the friendly Butch Atkins. I was concerned because it had only the electrical parts. After pulling the pump apart, I see there is nothing else to wear out.

Very basic. Armature, brushes, rubber isolators, screen, adjusting screw, and a parts diagram form 1951!

 

[hendersond]

After disconnecting and taping the electricals, I pulled the whole assembly out of the fuel tank. Take the bolts out and pry it up with a prybar. It was kind of stubborn. You can see there is a rubber grommet at the bottom that holds the assembly secure. Mine took some effort to get broken loose.

I had to "re-machine" the screws that hold the stone filters in place with a hacksaw. Then I could back them out.

Push the grommet in. It holds the 2 pieces of the housing together.

Then slide the housing apart.

 

[hendersond]

I decided to back out the screws that secure the rubber isolators. I found it best to take them all the way out. It is misleading because the isolators were loose. The screws were longer than I thought and just burried in the rubber like a set screw. Stick an awl in the rubber and pry it out. Mine were distorted and stuck good.

I had to take the brass fittings off as well and disconnect both ends of the tube to get the pump out. The brass fittings are compression with rubber seals inside so be careful.

The braided wire is the ground. The power wire is inside. I did not take it off the pump. I did have to remove the other end. The end is enclosed inside a housing that is secured with 4 ea 1/4" bolts. Removal will expose the connection.

Once that is all off the pump can be removed.

 

[hendersond]

I must say, be careful if you decide to take the wire off the pump. The nut is secured with a set screw on the side and there are rubber isolators/seals inside and some tension. Just enough crap to make it hard to get threaded back on. Threads are VERY fine and easily cross threaded.

Pull the top off, remove the armature. I see burn marks on the armature!

Disconnect the wire and remove the 3 screws holding the screen.

Remove the 2 screws holding the screen that surrounds the impeller.

Flip it over and remove the bottom. Pay attention to the slot on the bottom of the armature and how it fits in the impeller. There is also a tine steel ball on the bottom of the impeller that acts like a bearing.

 

[hendersond]

Here is the good news. Both brushes were broken and one wire burned off. Armature was scored as well. Last pic is new brushes and rubber isolator/mounts.

Notice the brushes do not interchange. That one with the D shape end is tough to keep in and install the threaded cap. Use something round and flat like a 1/4" rod to get it in place. Then stick your awl in there and turn it slightly to "jamb" it in place while you screw on the cap. -Remember this later!


It is comforting to actually find the problem.

 

[hendersond]

Assembly turned out to be a stinker.

Use a 1/2" wrench and remove the nut and threaded adjuster on top of the housing. This is what adjusts the endplay.

I installed the new screen and tightened the electrical connection. I placed the armature inside the main body and assembled the top. There was a catch on every revolution. At first i thought it was the preservative so I hit the high spots with a file, but I later found there was a small casting flaw on the new armature. I must have assembled it 6-8 times before I figured it out.

I just had to file the right spot.

 

[hendersond]

Once you get that far put the bottom together. Align the impeller with the groove in the armature and gently tighten the screws. The impeller will rub on the housing at this time, but it should not bind. Keep checking the impeller is free by turning the impeller with an awl from above.

You can now screw in the new endplay adjusting screw and adjust it to specs. the impeller should no longer rub. (I don't know the exact specs, see your manual)

You can see the jamb nut and adjuster on top.

Now you can install the brushes as previously described.

 

[hendersond]

As I was putting the assembly back together, I thought it wise to take it to the truck and test it before going further. It worked as expected. Easier to fix now that drain fuel and remove the tank again. It is best to test before assembling the 2 housings and stone filters.

Assemble everything else with new gaskets and paint it up.

Thank You Butch Atkins!

.

 

[T4bergie]

Where can I get a rebuild kit?

 

[hendersond]

You can try Butch Atkins on the forum, but I think he may have sold me the last one????? Otherwise I see one on Ebay. Search "Carter P604s"

 

[T4bergie]

Do you know of anyone who has complete tank units and also rubber grommets?

 

[Gunfreak25]

The rubber grommets for the bottom of the fuel pump housing can be ordered from Memphis. I went ahead and ordered 2 when i rebuilt mine. Little did I know each box contained 2 so I ended up with 4 total grommets. Send me your address and I'll mail you one if you need it Bergie.

 

[hendersond]

I rebuilt the pump and a few years later it went out again. I blame it on alcohol and water condensation in a part of the country with high humidity. Both pumps below have proven reliable in the configurations described.

My replacement for the red truck is:
Carter P4603HD Universal Rotary Vane Electric Fuel Pump 43 GPH 6 PSI Marine 24V
This pump is not meant to suck. It is meant to be below the fluid level. I installed a 20 gallon fuel cell in the bed of the truck. I drive it in the yard. It takes me a year to burn 20 gallons. The problem of old fuel is eliminated with the smaller tank. The pump is below the box and is gravity fed. It has proven very reliable, but a very noisy rotary pump.

The pump I used on the yellow truck is:
24V FACET SOLID STATE FUEL PUMP 6-8PSI CARBURETED ENGINES ONAN 149-2035
I use a small boat tank on the factory tank brackets. I assume it would work with the factory tank if you plug the bleed holes in the factory pickup tube. I added a regulator between the regulator and carb. The regulator is set at 6psi. It is reliable and my suggested replacement. This pump will suck for long periods without locking up. It will suck fuel.

My fuel pump education is documented in my truck threads. I learned that most pumps will not lift (suck) fuel for extended periods of time. Most must be gravity fed and below the liquid level to be reliable. If you pick up a new Mr. Gasket fuel pump and read the package it now states it must be gravity fed. They worked great for about an hour and then wouldn't pump until shut down for a period of time. They changed the packaging after my 4th free pump replacement and a few discussions with the engineers.

 

[Hammer]

Ok, who sells the kit now?
I pulled my pump apart, and it had one bad brush.
Everything else seems it pretty good working order on the pump. The screens could be nicer, but they still work.

 

[SturmTyger380]

I haven't see the kits in quite a while now. I have seen from time to time the complete pump for sale on the popular bidding website. They aren't cheap but are the whole pump. I tired to get a run of the rubber isolators made but the company never would do it. They had better things to do .

 

[Hammer]

Man, I only really NEED the brushes, those would seem like we could get them if we had specific part numbers for them.

 

[SturmTyger380]

In my town there is a motor repair place. It's an old place and they work on all motors. They sell new ones as well. I bet if you took the brushes and the armature down to a place like that they could match it to an existing one.

 

[Hammer]

The one brush was toast, nothing really left of it to see what I even need.
I can take it to a local old timer, he mainly does alternators, etc. Never know!

 

[M37keppy]

I got a NOS one I’m not going to use. The only problem with it is the threads for the electrical connection are bad and need chased. Shoot me PM if interested.

 

[USMC 00-08]

This is out of Ord 9 SNL G-749

Assembly part number



Brush part numbers