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002a quits with no batt cable?

cuad4u

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St Matthews, SC
The 002A and 003A require 28VDC to operate certain items such as fuel pump(s) and to keep the STOP solenoid retracted - to name a few. If the battery charger is working, either generator should run without batteries but I would not recommend doing so. Is your 28VDC battery charger working?
 

Triple Jim

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From what I've learned, if you try running one without a battery, you'll probably blow one or more capacitors, such as the noise suppression ones on the fuel pumps, from subjecting them to unfiltered DC. You could wire a big capacitor in place of the battery if you need to run the generator without a battery. The DC regulators I make for those generators have a 22,000 μF 50V capacitor in them for that purpose, and several hours of testing shows that's plenty to keep the DC circuits happy. Of course if the regulator is not working properly, then the control circuits are not going to be happy even with a capacitor connected.
 

Razerface

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Is your 28VDC battery charger working?
Well, i guess not. Thats wht i was trying to figure out. As soon as i unhook a battery cable, it quits, and does not run even if i replace the cable real fast. I have to go restart it with the start switch. Where does the regulator hide on the 002a?
 
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Razerface

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I found the regulator. Taking the sheet metal off now.

When i took out the fuse, it is tight in the cap, but not on the other end. Is there supposed to be a spring or something to contact the end of the fuse when you insert it? I can stick the fuse in without the cap on it, and it seems very loose.
 

Razerface

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Urbana, ohio
I found the regulator. Taking the sheet metal off now.

When i took out the fuse, it is tight in the cap, but not on the other end. Is there supposed to be a spring or something to contact the end of the fuse when you insert it? I can stick the fuse in without the cap on it, and it seems very loose.
The fuse is ok.

Someone has redone the wiring i think, since the wire connections are the blue ones we all buy at the store and crimp.

I measured stuff, but did not unhook anything. Was i supposed to unhook before measuring? The 2wires comeing from stator measure 25.80 AC. The wire that looks like it comes out of regulator and goes into the wire harness and also connects too a long slim cylinder,,, measures 25.4 DC. Regulator? Is the stator high enough?
 

Chainbreaker

Well-known member
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Oregon
I found the regulator. Taking the sheet metal off now.

When i took out the fuse, it is tight in the cap, but not on the other end. Is there supposed to be a spring or something to contact the end of the fuse when you insert it? I can stick the fuse in without the cap on it, and it seems very loose.
Yes, that is the way mine comes out with the cap. When you replace the cap with fuse and twist you should feel a slight resistance as the cap engages with holder. Not sure if there is a spring in the other end of holder, never took one apart. The fuse is a 32V 15 Amp fuse.
 

cuad4u

Active member
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Location
St Matthews, SC
Stator voltage should be around 30-35VAC (I think it is AC) into the regulator and around 28VDC out of the regulator.
 
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Triple Jim

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Your best bet is to watch the battery voltage after starting the generator, and see if it comes up to something reasonable in a half hour or an hour. You said that after starting it is 24, and slowly goes up to 26. That's a good sign. Does it keep rising after that? The charging current is only about 7 amps, so if the batteries aren't fully charged already, it could take quite a while to get up to 28-ish.
 

Razerface

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Urbana, ohio
Your best bet is to watch the battery voltage after starting the generator, and see if it comes up to something reasonable in a half hour or an hour. You said that after starting it is 24, and slowly goes up to 26. That's a good sign. Does it keep rising after that? The charging current is only about 7 amps, so if the batteries aren't fully charged already, it could take quite a while to get up to 28-ish.
Ok, will put sheet metal back and do that. Thanks

still, how would it keep running with no batteries if it takes that long to get to 28v?
 
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Triple Jim

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The seven amp output of the charging system is plenty to run the control system. The time to get to 28V would be due a major portion of the charge current going to charging the battery. I take it you saw my post above about needing something to filter the DC from the regulator. The battery normally does that job.
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
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Location
North Carolina
OK good, so it's charging at 27 volts, which although a bit on the low side, isn't bad. It proves that the charging system can run the control system while also charging the battery. So as I said, if you need to run the generator without a battery, at least put a capacitor in the battery's place to filter the very unfiltered DC coming from the regulator. As a starting point, you can use a 22,000 μF capacitor that's rated at least 30 volts. If you're looking for one, try to get it rated for a higher voltage, like 40 or 50, for a bigger safety margin. The right place for the capacitor is right at the regulator's output.
 
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