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10 bolt **** out

bp m1009

Member
176
0
16
Location
Somerset County NJ/ NE PA
i think its about time for a new rear axle my 10 bolt has been making the weirdest noises and grinding sounds i think its gonna go anyday. what is the best axle swap to do on a m1009? 14bolt ff?
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
if you do a 14ff you need to change your front to a 8 lug set up also. you can keep your front axle just need to get the 8 lug set up for it. like off suburban from the junk yard. then you need new rims

or you can jsut get another 10 bolt.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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GA Mountains
NOS rears are plenty cheap these days. Gives you time to obtain the parts for a 14B swap.
 

1stDeuce

Member
349
15
18
Location
Farmington, NM
Do a search. I recommend that if you don't want to go to 8 lug hubs, you go with a 90's 14 bolt semi-floater, or a late 70's 12 bolt semi floater. Both can be had in the 6-bolt pattern to match your front axle, and both should end up widening the rear track to be closer to the front, which is nice. The 12 bolt is a half ton axle, and it'll bolt right in. The 14 bolt sf will need spring pads moved.

Either one will likely be the last axle you buy, and they have bigger brakes as an added bonus.
C
 

84cucv1ton

Active member
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New Jersey
hows my old truck doing by you? other then the axle? if you like i have a few sets of 3/4 ton axles from late 70s chevys.. pm or call if you like
 

bp m1009

Member
176
0
16
Location
Somerset County NJ/ NE PA
hows my old truck doing by you? other then the axle? if you like i have a few sets of 3/4 ton axles from late 70s chevys.. pm or call if you like
well it turns out that i dont need a new axle. the horrible grinding and clanking noise were just my u joints trying to tell me that they probly hadnt been greased in years and they wanted to quit. so i just replaced both u joints for the rear drive shaft. cost me about $40 for the joints and about an hour to get the old ones out and new ones in not too bad.
 

hndrsonj

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Cheyenne, WY
Don't replace with 10 bolts, you will have the same problems. Get a 12 bolt rear and dana 44 front from any 70's chevy half ton. bolts right in.
 

jj

New member
253
17
0
Location
Kutztown,PA
Now that you don't need one, let me tell you about the brand new, in the crate, front and rear ten bolts available at Coleman's Surplus in Millersburg,PA. Not terribly expensive, not terribly far from you, and simple easy bolt-ins. Did i mentoin they are new, never used? Yes, they are still ten bolts, but really, just how hard do you beat them? They are not a bad deal.
 

bp m1009

Member
176
0
16
Location
Somerset County NJ/ NE PA
Now that you don't need one, let me tell you about the brand new, in the crate, front and rear ten bolts available at Coleman's Surplus in Millersburg,PA. Not terribly expensive, not terribly far from you, and simple easy bolt-ins. Did i mentoin they are new, never used? Yes, they are still ten bolts, but really, just how hard do you beat them? They are not a bad deal.
wats the deal?? then ill tell you if its not a bad one. i would feel bad putting any money towards another 10 bolt i have 2 other 10 bolts behind my shed
 

jj

New member
253
17
0
Location
Kutztown,PA
When i bought my spares(a front and a rear) they were $395 each. That was Dec 2007. I have seen them on the Coleman's website and e-bay, listed by Coleman's for $295 each, but i haven't looked for them lately. Google Coleman's Surplus, it should be easy to find. They are in Millersburg,PA. Maybe a 45 minute drive north of Harrisburg. I don't wheel or stuff, just have to get to work in snow, so straight replacements at that price were too good to pass up. A hundred cheaper would have been even better.
 
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