• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

1009 hot weather operation

riggermedic

Active member
175
31
28
Location
Phoenix AZ
Just bought an 86 1009 here in Phoenix AZ. Been in the triple digits lately and am curious if I need to summer-ize. I have not yet added a water or transmission temp gauge. Any suggestions? Should I go with thicker oil to compensate for the higher temps? I appreciate any suggestions.
 

Assel

Member
197
7
16
Location
Germany Schwarzwald-Baar
I would not worry about that, since the most "cooling jobs" are done by the radiator there should be no problems... I never had any issues with overheating anything, I think an extra transmission radiator is just needed when you do hardcore towing..for which a m1009 is probably not the right one, rather do that with a m1008.

If your "overheating" lamp works fine and all fluids are on top level you should do fine.

But you should avoid traffic jams, without driving wind the cabin is like a oven, heated by the sun from top, engine from the front & transmission from under it :D
 

Gunfighter1

New member
100
0
0
Location
AZ
Agreed, I've bin running ah cheap Bosch temp gauge from advanced for around $17.00.
Where did you put the temp probe into? Thats something i need to do. Got my boost and egt gauge but would like a water temop just for the **** of it. As for hot weather im in AZ as well and so far havent had any issues with cooling. Oil is the usual rotela t 15-40 dont bother with anything special.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
10
0
Location
Eatonton GA
Where did you put the temp probe into? Thats something i need to do. Got my boost and egt gauge but would like a water temop just for the **** of it. As for hot weather im in AZ as well and so far havent had any issues with cooling. Oil is the usual rotela t 15-40 dont bother with anything special.
Well that's the tricky part, I've heard you can put it in one of the heads. But in my opinion that wouldn't be the most accurate spot. A true (total temperature) reading of the engine as a whole would be just upstream of the thermostat as most if not all cars are today. Unfortunately the only way to make that happen with our trucks is to replace coolant crossover tube with one from a HMMWV, that has 3 bosses cast into it. I got mine for $60.00 off ebay but I've seen them go for cheaper lately.
 

rsh4364

Active member
1,372
15
38
Location
greensprings ,ohio
If you are looking for an easier,cheaper route.There is a threaded plug in top of water pump you can take out and thread probe into.The Humvee crossovers are nice to have because of extra ports.Incase you want to add a sensor for an electric fan,or a sacrificial anode.My cucvs are daily drivers so I always add temp.gauge and oil pressure gauges.Also I always add a fuel press. gauge underhood.
 
Last edited:

Drock

New member
1,020
10
0
Location
Eatonton GA
Yes it bolts straight in, you'll need ah couple brass plugs to fill the unused ports. I got mine from Ace hardware.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
10
0
Location
Eatonton GA
If you are looking for an easier,cheaper route.There is a threaded plug in top of water pump you can take out and thread probe into.The Humvee crossovers are nice to have because of extra ports.Incase you want to add a sensor for an electric fan,or a sacrificial anode.My cucvs are daily drivers so I always add temp.gauge and oil pressure gauges.Also I always add a fuel press. gauge underhood.
Unfortunately that's also ah bad, if not worse spot then the port in the head. I had mine plugged in there at first, and quickly realized all it was reading was the cooled water coming (out of the rad). The gauge would never go above 160°
 

rsh4364

Active member
1,372
15
38
Location
greensprings ,ohio
Unfortunately that's also ah bad, if not worse spot then the port in the head. I had mine plugged in there at first, and quickly realized all it was reading was the cooled water coming (out of the rad). The gauge would never go above 160°
Mine seems to work fine,I start it it runs up to 190,then thermo opens and drops to 175-180 at cruising speed.At slow speeds it reads a bit cooler.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
10
0
Location
Eatonton GA
Mine seems to work fine,I start it it runs up to 190,then thermo opens and drops to 175-180 at cruising speed.At slow speeds it reads a bit cooler.
Well there you go, your reading the (radiator), not the (engine). And if your getting 190° at that point it must be running HOT!! Think about it, if the coolant (entering), the engine is already 190°. Then what is it leaving the engine? The only way to get an honest, accurate reading of the (total temperature) of any engine is to take that reading just upstream of the thermostat. Remember your thermostat is what controls the operating temperature of the engine.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
10
0
Location
Eatonton GA
That Hummvee crossover is looking better and better.
Agreed, I'm really blown away buy the fact that both general motors & the government, didn't see the need for a temperature gauge in a big block, diesel truck, intended to haul or tow heavy loads while in 4WD , off road?:cookoo: Anyway it's ah relatively easy, and cheap fix.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks