12 volt idea

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V8srfun

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Mazda cars with the i-eloop charging system have a voltage drop resister under the drivers seat. The factory alternator charges at 24/25 volts into a capacitor in the fender well. That capacitor then feeds the voltage drop resistor that can then safely feed the deep cycle 12 volt battery. They started using this system in some of the Mazda 6 and Mazda 3 cars in 2014 or 2015 so the parts may be available from the wrecking yard soon. The only hard part would be properly wiring it in but with the factory schematic it can’t be that hard.
 

simp5782

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Mazda cars with the i-eloop charging system have a voltage drop resister under the drivers seat. The factory alternator charges at 24/25 volts into a capacitor in the fender well. That capacitor then feeds the voltage drop resistor that can then safely feed the deep cycle 12 volt battery. They started using this system in some of the Mazda 6 and Mazda 3 cars in 2014 or 2015 so the parts may be available from the wrecking yard soon. The only hard part would be properly wiring it in but with the factory schematic it can’t be that hard.
Or buy a equalizer that cost under $300 from @Suprman , requires a 12v and 24v solenoid for turning each side on though. Capable of 100amps
 

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tennmogger

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Just looked up the i-eloop system. The purpose is to recover energy from decelleration and use it to charge the electrical system. This part I am intuiting: the voltage recovered would vary considerably with speed and rate of deceleration. If that voltage were conditioned in real time to charge a 12v battery there would be high losses, but, if that voltage were stored in a super capacitor it could accept all the recovered energy. The charged capacitor would then be discharged into the 12v battery at a limited current as determined by the resistor. the basic idea could be used on a mil veh, that is take 28vdc through a resistor to charge a 12v battery. Problem is the 28v system is effectively an infinite source whereas the charged capacitor would soon discharge. No charge control would be needed to utilize the capacitors energy but a charge regulator would be needed from the 28 v truck system.
 

V8srfun

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Correct all you should need is the voltage drop resistor and a additional 12 volt battery. These parts are probably far cheaper out of a salvage yard than the commercially available units if one wants to take the time to install it.
 

Mullaney

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Or buy a equalizer that cost under $300 from @Suprman , requires a 12v and 24v solenoid for turning each side on though. Capable of 100amps
simp5782 Do you happen to have a pointer to the correct solenoids? They look a lot like Ford starter solenoids. And in your setup - did you route the 12v output to a distribution block inside the truck? I also noticed that nothing is connected to your center (ground) terminal. Is that during install and that step isn't done yet?

You have your equalizer mounted on the firewall. Is that to keep the heat it generates outside the cab?

In my case - it could fit under the passenger seat. Then there are the possible Heat? or Potential Spark? concerns maybe.
 

simp5782

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simp5782 Do you happen to have a pointer to the correct solenoids? They look a lot like Ford starter solenoids. And in your setup - did you route the 12v output to a distribution block inside the truck? I also noticed that nothing is connected to your center (ground) terminal. Is that during install and that step isn't done yet?

You have your equalizer mounted on the firewall. Is that to keep the heat it generates outside the cab?

In my case - it could fit under the passenger seat. Then there are the possible Heat? or Potential Spark? concerns maybe.
Should be fine in the box. You won't be making it work too hard.

24v solenoid is 24063 for 600amp continuous

12v is 24059

100amp resettable breaker.

I have a 12v and 24v fuse panel from amazon

That pic was during install.
 

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Mullaney

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Thanks simp5782 !

I ordered the Blade Fuse Box and 100amp Circuit Breaker. Thanks for the pix. Got those on the way to me.

I looked at the 24063 and it says continuous duty. Says 300amp though. Am I missing something?

The 12v version that I found was 300amp too.
 

simp5782

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Thanks simp5782 !

I ordered the Blade Fuse Box and 100amp Circuit Breaker. Thanks for the pix. Got those on the way to me.

I looked at the 24063 and it says continuous duty. Says 300amp though. Am I missing something?

The 12v version that I found was 300amp too.
The 24v is 600v sorry and 85amp. Its the same solenoids for the PCB box so order a few of them just in case. The PCB takes 2 of them. 300amp is fine. The equalizer unit is only a 100amp anyway
 

Mullaney

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Perfect! I have 6 coming. I saw your thread about rebuilding PCB boxes and figured I would ask about that one day soon. Thanks!
 

162tcat

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Mazda cars with the i-eloop charging system have a voltage drop resister under the drivers seat. The factory alternator charges at 24/25 volts into a capacitor in the fender well. That capacitor then feeds the voltage drop resistor that can then safely feed the deep cycle 12 volt battery. They started using this system in some of the Mazda 6 and Mazda 3 cars in 2014 or 2015 so the parts may be available from the wrecking yard soon. The only hard part would be properly wiring it in but with the factory schematic it can’t be that hard.
Seems like the wheel is being reinvented here. Get an equalizer or just a 24-12v converter. Simple, proven and reliable. Why stuff a bunch of crazy electronics in a mechanical truck that leaks from every angle when it rains?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Mullaney

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Seems like the wheel is being reinvented here. Get an equalizer or just a 24-12v converter. Simple, proven and reliable. Why stuff a bunch of crazy electronics in a mechanical truck that leaks from every angle when it rains?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Morning 162tcat

I definitely agree that the converter box is the way to go. I just ordered my last few parts to start my install for my M936 last night. Can't wait to get that installed!

These trucks are a lot more complex than they need to be IMO. I spent part of a previous life (in my 20's) working on WWII and Korean vintage machines where everything was mechanical. A clutch peddle with a real piece of steel between your foot and the arm that actuated the disk. These new fangled things with their automatic transmissions and cable engaged PTOs... Sometimes it's enough to make me pull out what little hair I have left. The 1940's and 50's technology compared to my 1984 machine sometime make it a lot more difficult to work on.

Funny part is they still have the same axles, frame, cab and switches from 70 years ago. Wonder if anybody has looked at the numbers on automatic transmissions (failures) and compared that to a gearbox and clutch? Or, did Allison have a congressman or two in their pocket?
 

V8srfun

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I am talking about a voltage drop resistor some wire and a 12 volt battery. This is not some plan to make a over complicated system.
 
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