1952 M135 W/Winch

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USMC 00-08

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Skiatook, OK
Here is the new truck I just bought. It runs and drives great. All gears in all ranges work. Brakes are weak but stop the truck at least.

I found it on CL in another state. I drove it the 170+ mile trip home with no problems. Prior to driving it, everything was checked and lubricated per the TM.

There are parts in the bed and in the box under the passenger side door that I still have not gone through yet. Just a quick glance at them and I saw a distributor, extra headlights, blackout lights and various switches. There are also troop seat and rack hardware in the bed. A heater is plumbed in but I am not sure if it is military or not. Some minor things have not been looked at too closely yet.

It has an arsenal overhaul tag on it and appears to have 7,000 miles on it since rebuild. The transmission has ATF in it at the moment. In the near future, I will change all the fluids and start getting everything how it needs to be.



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Last edited:

USMC 00-08

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Skiatook, OK
After being on vacation for almost 2 weeks, I finally had a chance to do some work on the truck. I have started by changing all the fluids. 15w40 was used in the engine. The ATF was drained out of the transmission and Hytran put back in. The air cleaner, crankcase breather and chassis breather were cleaned and oiled. Things are going great so far.

I did have some trouble getting the torus drain plug out. A previous owner had the plug so rounded out that I could not get anything to grip it. I found a Lisle brand broken bolt, nut and stud remover that works great. here is a pic incase someone else needs one. I highly recommend getting one.
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The breather hose appeared to be an original and was really brittle and had a lot of cracks in it. It tore in half when I went to remove it. After looking at all of the part stores in town, no one had a hose like it. O'Reillys had a hose kit made by Spectre (part #8741) that worked perfectly.
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I also had a chance to look through some of the spare parts. Looks like I have a complete wiring harness for under the dash, an extra headlight, tail light and a few things the I am not sure what they are yet.
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Starting tomorrow, I hope to get the differentials and transfer case drained and refilled. Then everything else done per the TM.

Does anyone have any pictures of racks and troops seats that they can post up? I have all the hardware but it looks like I may have two sets. I'm not real sure since I don't know what it is all supposed to look like.
 

Digger09

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Nice. Good luck with it. A 135 was the first deuce I drove at around 13 years old or so. Needless to say 30 years later the addiction is still there. I'll have to see if I can find the picture putting a motor in it with a 950 wheel loader.:driver:
 

m1010plowboy

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Edmonton, Canada
G749 Troop seats

Does anyone have any pictures of racks and troops seats that they can post up? I have all the hardware but it looks like I may have two sets. I'm not real sure since I don't know what it is all supposed to look like.
It's raining G749's, nice truck. Thanks for posting the part numbers. The intake hose looks like a great replacement and we can add it to the Parts List.

Here's a couple of pics of the seats. I'm sure I have better pics in the TM's so let us know if you need something else.

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USMC 00-08

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Skiatook, OK
Those pictures work great. I am sure I have two sets but I will pull them all out and take a picture of them.

I am adding part numbers to the list as I go along. Will send out the updated copy very soon.
 

USMC 00-08

Active member
1,098
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Location
Skiatook, OK
The work on the truck continues. An injury set me back but I am back going again. I have drained and refilled the differentials, transfer case and winch. Everything has been greased and the air pack serviced.

I have run into an issue on the shock absorbers and need some advice. The TM says to disconnect the link by taking off the nut and driving the pin out to allow the arm to move so you can refill it and bleed the air out. Is there a trick to getting the pin out? I have tried twisting it out and beating it out but can't get it to move. I didn't want to ruin it so I stopped and decided to ask for guidance.

I had a chance to go through the hardware for the troop seats in the bed and it appears that I am missing 4 of the shorter pieces that go over the wheel wells. Here is a pic of what I found.
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There are also several extra pieces, but I am not sure if they are to the G749 series trucks or not. What do you guys think? Here is a pic of those.
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I also noticed that my tailgate is different from all of the others that I have seen. Has anyone seen one like this with the step built into the tailgate?
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Next thing on the list is fixing air leaks and getting the brakes working as they should. I discovered an air leak on the end of the air governor. I believe this is the diaphragm but I am not sure since I cannot find it in the TM. It is leaking around the bolts in the 11, 9 and 7 o'clock position. What do I need to do to fix this? Where do I find the parts and if taken apart, will it mess up the governor settings?
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Last question for now is about getting to the wheel cylinders. The TM has me confused. Section 239 (pg. 439-442) and section 240 (pg.443-444) talk about brake shoes and brake drums. Section 239 says you have to pull the axle shafts on the rear and hub drive flange on the front to get to things. Section 240 says remove the wheels and 18 studs securing the brake drum to the brake drum adapter to remove the drum.

My question is, can I get to the wheel cylinders by just taking off a wheel and removing the brake drum or do I have to pull the axle shaft\drive flange to get to all of it?
 

hendersond

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I'll give an opinion on the brakes. I would rather pull the shafts and remove the drums/hubs as one unit. You have a lot of room and it is very easy. You get to inspect the seals this way.
 

USMC 00-08

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Skiatook, OK
Check out page 340 and 342 of TM 9-8024 and also X,Y and Z of figure 83 on page 126. It has to be removed as part of the process to fully drain the transmission.
 
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