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1952 M35 Gasser repair and build

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Some more, including some from before I got the truck, when the guy was trying to sell it

0302150935a.jpg0302150935.jpg0302150933a.jpg0302150935b.jpg0302151031.jpgM35 drivers side.jpgM35 passenger side.jpg

tires are 11.00r20, Michelin X tires, weather cracked, but usable for now, figure I'll run them as is, then when I get some more money I'll get proper duals for it, probably same size

now the front axle boots aren't torn, just really greasy, worth replacing anyways? or just run them till they rip?

figure I'll replace all the rubber brake lines, inspect all the metal lines, maybe new pads all the way around, rebuild cylinders if needed
 

OD_Coyote

Active member
887
58
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Location
North Bend, WA
I don't see the front drive shaft in post #21 pic #2, do you have the front drive shaft or is it MIA? ...My truck was missing the front drive shaft when I bought it.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
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Location
NH
it's in the bed, was removed for towing, based on more then a 50% saying it would be wise with the Sprag tansfer

actually have a question, right by the master and booster, there is a junction, two large lines, probably 3/8, come to the junction and a small 1/4-3/16 line comes off and ends with a fitting, you can barely see it by the master in Pic #1, Post #21

I believe this is an airline, so where does that little line go to? didn't see anything near it could attach to so:shrugs:, I am still going through the TM's, but can't seem to figure it out

on a side note, that harness was really bad, will need to find a few extra pieces, like generator wires, light housing wires, distributor power wire.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
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Location
NH
Passenger Hood Number.jpgNew Wiring.jpgDrivers Hood Number.jpgPassenger hood US ARMY.jpg

So I started sanding the hood, found some numbers, 4CI620, and US ARMY, twice on passenger side as shown
I will be trying some stripper later to see if I can get to the yellow numbers, but further sanding revealed vary little, I think they were very worn or previously sanded before the green was applied.

also got the New harness in, added turn signals to the harness, and converted some wires from Douglass to Packard, still need to finish Alternator wiring. also need to figure out the Air Pressure gauge, some one converted to electric, which messed with the number of power wires going to the cluster. currently am running the volt meter to 27 that previously went to the Fuel gauge(no tank installed, too rusty, some pinholes)

I am going to have to order a fuel pump rebuild kit, I was hoping I could have filled the bowl, but it doesn't look possible. Will also have to look at getting more spark plugs, the two sets I got with the truck are incorrect, but will work with my M7158), so lucked out there...kind of,

I knew I had a cap, so I went ahead and ordered points and a condenser...stupid me forgot to get a rotor as well:doh:, so tune up will have to wait as well
 

jacklegjim

Member
91
3
8
Location
Lebanon,Tennessee
Good looking truck. I sold one that was 4C2053 1954 and it was converted to a M35A2. The number was painted on the inside of the doors also on the identifaction tag. It was not near as nice as yours.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
So you can fill the bowl, you just need to pull the whole horn off, and put it back on. anyways, first try not so much a go, had no spark, so pulled apart the distributor, new points I bought were wrong, so cleaned everything best I could and threw it all back together.

Short Video(because a bowl of fuel is just a tiny drop to this motor)

https://youtu.be/7rpqQEQJaI8

enjoy, I am on the search for a fuel tank, may have found one. and correct tune up parts, actually ordered spark plugs through my dads work today, they got them in and my brother dropped them off. They won't go in until I run the truck for a while though, just want them on hand.

Next project is brakes, now that I know can get it to go, need to make sure I can stop...you know little things:D
 

OD_Coyote

Active member
887
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28
Location
North Bend, WA
Cool!!!! Right now I am using one of these for a temporary fuel source to move the truck around the yard until I clean up the original tank.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Cool!!!! Right now I am using one of these for a temporary fuel source to move the truck around the yard until I clean up the original tank.
I was actually going to use a jerry can and just run a hose to it from the pump.

I'm cleaning the pump now, actually looks usable, just need to see if I can find/make an oil seal.
there was a lot of white goo in it, and some of the parts are a little rusty, but a little scotch brite pad and it cleaned up nice. hard part was getting the rocker arm and top diaphragm apart.

actually, probably just need to call Then and Now Auto, have them send me a kit...
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
yeah, figured that out, two letters are not used, I and O, for confusion with 1 and 0.

I thought about that, and will probably try to do that, but I am thinking it just may be some random one that some guy put on to impersonate the US Army, I mean it was definitely originally a USAF truck, but how often if ever do they swap branches I'm unsure, can't find any info on that subject
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
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113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
yeah, figured that out, two letters are not used, I and O, for confusion with 1 and 0.

I thought about that, and will probably try to do that, but I am thinking it just may be some random one that some guy put on to impersonate the US Army, I mean it was definitely originally a USAF truck, but how often if ever do they swap branches I'm unsure, can't find any info on that subject
Actually the Marines got quite a few trucks from the Army. We always seemed to get the cast-offs from other branches. Including there tanks. My "M60A1 Rise Passive" originally came from the Army.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Rebuilt the fuel pump, couple before pics, during and a final assembled one. I used the kit by Then and Now Auto, part number FPA-182. It is a really good quality kit, small issue when I first received, didn't have the oil seal, but one phone call, and it arrived the next day. all I can say is great customer service. a little pricey, but I think it will definitely be worth it, especially if it holds up against modern fuels

also started pulling everything from the old Fuel tank, I can reuse the pickup, but I don't think I can save the sender, so one more thing to pick up. also working on trying to remove the parking cable, but I think I should just remove the whole assembly, give it a proper cleaning.

Fuel Pump Start.jpgFuel Pump Inside.jpgFuel pump inside after.jpgDiaphragm after.jpgComplete.jpgFuel Sender.jpg
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
well, I put the fuel pump back on, grabbed a 5 gallon jerry, and ran a line with filter to pump. Fired her up, but runs awful, lots of smoke, thought maybe a little oil left in the cylinders so I left her at a high idle for maybe 10 minutes, didn't get any better, and it also had a very short rpm range(by sound)coughing and sputtering the whole way.

well I checked the oil, and it was quite milky, fearing I had a head gasket problem I looked at the coolant; Nope that level is fine.

smelled the dipstick and it was a little gassy, so I guess either I am leaking a bunch of fuel past the cylinder rings, or I messed up my fuel pump rebuild. I really hope it isn't the pump, but that is the only thing I can think of, and that would account for the smoke as well, oil and gas mixing in the pump
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
well, its NOT the pump, but it is the carburetor

I had pulled the pump, primed it so fuel came out the outlet, then quickly pulled it apart, top of diaphragm was dry, bottom wet, and I couldn't see any oil residue either, so at least I didn't mess that up.

I thought the smoke was more blue and had the oily smell, but I could have been wrong

anyways, pulled the carb, pulled the horn, and gas was on top of the gaskets covering the bowl, and everything was soaked. one more expense for the truck, carb rebuild kit, good thing spring is nearly here or I'm gonna run short on money real soon
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Oh, how much oil does this truck take? I can't seem to find a definitive answer, but I found one random site where they said 8 quarts. is that about right??
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
well I feel like an idiotaua, so I was searching all the manuals I had, web etc. and all I had to do was look at the dash plates. still not use to the Military data plates giving all the good info right there
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
well, I put the carb on, tested to make sure it didn't flood(primed till bowl filled, then cranked engine, without ignition), didn't flood bowl, so I proceeded to drain the oil...

took two pans to catch oil from front and back, as the oil level rose a half inch above full mark, so wanted to make sure I had enough pan. loosened the front drain, then loosened rear, finally removed front, then rear(I was behind the axle, so was easier to reach both drains at same time), well immidetally noticed the front drain wasn't doing anything, and the rear was just dribbling, so I grabbed a screwdriver, and poked it up through till it started draining.

immediately knew I was going to drop the pan, not on my list, but had to happen. anyways, thin layer of ice over rear drain, almost an inch over the front, I had oil pressure(right around 50PSI) and oil was clean(and not thin) the first time I started, so I figure this was all condensation from sitting for so long. My dad is going to put the pan in the parts washer at work
Oil Milkshake.jpgPan before.jpg

I was going to drain and replace all oil(diff, tranny, etc) anyways, but now this really gives me a reason to.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Got the pan all clean, can't find a gasket so I will just have to use some gasket maker, not ideal, but what else can one do?

I also picked up two 5-gals of 80W90 GL5/MT-1 so I can do all the other fluids. $116! kind of expensive, but I guess it ain't half bad got a little discount through my dads work.
 
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