1953 M37 Won't start need advice

[Marine3531]

Hi Everyone,

First off let me say I am a computer guy not a mechanic. That being said with proper directions I can usually replace / troubleshoot as needed with vehicles. Here is my problem. I have a 1953 M37 US ARMY model. I bought it from a friends family who passed away. For the first couple of years the truck started without issue although sometimes I would need to charge the batteries and or jump the truck.

That turned into having to jump it off the starter solenoid. Just to be sure I switched the starter solenoid out. No joy I still had to jump off of it. Now I get no juice whatsoever when trying to jump off of it. Turn the key and nothing. Before every once and a while I could get a start off the ignition. The lights and horn still turn on but no clicks even when trying to jump off the solenoid. The batteries will go down but it's sitting in a shelter on my property doing nothing must of the time. When I charge the batteries they usually go up to 98%.

Any suggestions of what to troubleshoot / what to replace next? Thanks.

Mike

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

It sounds like it has been modified. Could you post some info about the engine, and some pictures?

 

[Marine3531]

Thanks

Hey thanks for your reply. Yes it may have been. My buddy was a mechanic so who knows what he did. I know he used to tell me stories about work-arounds but again I'm no mechanic. What exactly do you wants pics of? I am assuming the engine area under the hood?

Just to let you know it has two batteries which I believe is a 24 volt system? It has a kill switch in the cab for the batteries and another under the hood.

I'll take a bunch of pics of what I believe is relevant and post within about 20-30 minutes. Thank you for your time!

Mike

 

[Marine3531]

Pictures

I am assuming it is a straight six? Here are the pictures. I have the engine, solenoid, battery setup with kill switch. The wire I took a picture of is the second kill switch. Thanks.

 

[NDT]

The battery connections look really bad. Disassemble and clean the post to stud adapters and the terminals at the end of the cables. You have a 12 volt conversion, the two batteries are parallel connected.

 

[Marine3531]

Will do. Thank you.

 

[Carlo]

Looks like parallel 12 volt to me too.

 

[Carlo]

Or maybe this is why the starter won't turn as in 12 volts going into a 24 volt starter.

 

[Marine3531]

Is there a reason for this type of connection? Should it be wired in this fashion? How do I know if I have a 24 volt starter versus a 12 volt? Thanks.

 

[Carlo]

WI think you need to identify the starter as 12 or 24 volt first. I don't have experience in your truck but I do on the 939 series and they are marked 24 volt.
Like NDT said it could have been converted to 12. Are the lite bulbs marked 12 or 24? When you jumped it were you using 12 volt?

 

[RodUSMC1962]

Just a tip, go to Harbor Freight and buy two little $6.00 battery float chargers and keep them on all the time. They won`t charge a dead battery, but will keep one charged. I have one on my deuce, farm tractor, snow plow truck. I keep them on winter and summer and never have battery problems.

 

[Marine3531]

Thanks for the tip Rod. Semper Fi.

 

[NDT]

Is there a reason for this type of connection? Should it be wired in this fashion? How do I know if I have a 24 volt starter versus a 12 volt? Thanks.

A 24 volt starter will not work with 12 volts, so it's pretty certain the starter is 12 volt. Looks like it in the picture. The batteries are connected in parallel to give you more cold cranking amps. Really not needed unless you live in the arctic.