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2011 PNW Mini Rally #4

AN/ARC186

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Graham,Washington
Then I'll just need the connector to change out. I was going to change all the wiring out, just because it's kinda old, since 1990, at least, but if it's still good, why change a good thing.

So did anyone come up with an answer about the wheels?

Or should I post elsewhere?
Go ahead and bring the trailer, I've got plenty of wire to rewire it. if anyone has a receptacle from the back end of an MV I can fab up an adapter for a civilian rig.
 

hwcurtice

Well-known member
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Moncks Corner, SC
Go ahead and bring the trailer, I've got plenty of wire to rewire it. if anyone has a receptacle from the back end of an MV I can fab up an adapter for a civilian rig.

I'm getting so exited about this, the trailer might be set up this weekend... and be dragged around for the next month...
 

Josh

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Portland, Oregon
Hrm... Dan, Ya care if I do an oil change/ fuel filter swap in your yard? I need to get them done in feb, figured what better time then at the rally.


Also, If anyone wants to learn how to turn an IP up( and hopefully show me). I have been driving around for a few weeks in all conditions with my pyro and yet to get above 1000d. I was planing on turning it up before hand, but if anyone is interested to see how its done, I can wait until the mini rally to do it.
 

hwcurtice

Well-known member
1,558
35
48
Location
Moncks Corner, SC
Go ahead and bring the trailer, I've got plenty of wire to rewire it. if anyone has a receptacle from the back end of an MV I can fab up an adapter for a civilian rig.

Does anyone have one of these? The only MV I have is the trailer. I know where he's headed with this, and I think it would be great. I would still need to know what else I would need to bring.
 

64c30

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Spanaway WA
I'll dig the one out that I already have. The trailer light kit. Old stock wire... Gives me the shivers just thinking about it...

I wouldn't mind using the stock lights, just because they look so much better than after market stuff. Need to get some 12v LED bulbs for them though.

Then figure out how to put a light on the plate...
Here's my nickles worth ----

There's a seller on ebay selling adapters if you were to want to go that route, but wants $125.00 p/unit. Rather excessive. We can do one for far less.

Has the trailer been connected to a Mil Veh to insure all the lights function as designed yet? Very important.

Are the lights on it now the old style round shape, or the newer composite oval shape with the large red lens? Also important if converting to LEDs.

There's no real need for a plate light, as it wasn't made with one. There wasn't one on the Deuce and 105 I had, nor one on the 5 ton or M101CDN we have now and there's never been a problem with the Constabulary. I've never heard of anybody else being "talked to" about it either.

Unless your trailer's been a desert climate most of the time, the wiring should be okay. The 105 was a '53, and only needed a couple wires replaced due to a branch snagging them. It's usually the rubber coupler coverings that dry, crack and go bad.

The female, or vehicle mounted plug could most likely be had at Brads. Maybe somebody could pick one up before the 12th. Be sure there's at least 4 inches of wire to work with.

If you go to ebay motors, and look in military parts, or enter military LED, there are some tail light facings being sold for $30.00 per unit. The item number is 170591894392. The sellers user name is Bronco_buddy. They're desert tan, but can be masked and painted to match. If you convert to them, the stock lights will need to have to have the existing innards completely removed. (I did this with my 5 ton, and they work great.)

Or, to convert to 12 v, pull the 24v bulbs. Take them the local parts house and get the 12v equivalent. This was done to our M101CDN jeep tlr we pull behind the Blazer.

Bring along two small unopened tubes (one or 2 oz) of silicone, a can of liquid tape, or a can of black "Plasti- Dip" (hard to find, but Lowes has it in the spray paint rack) and at least 4 ea 1/2 or 1" paint brushes, along with your wire and connectors. I'll show you how to do the connections so they'll never leak. Bring wire ties (at least 8 inches, preferably 14 inches) and a couple rolls of high quality black tape also.

14ga wire will be more than adequate to make the adapter. Better yet, if you have or can get a pigtail (the coiled cable that goes from a semi tractor to the trailer) bring that. If the plugs are messed up that's okay. They'll be chucked anyway, and replaced with what you're putting on.

I'll bring a test light, crimpers, a multi meter, jumper wires and such.

See ya on the 12th.
 
Last edited:
276
22
18
Location
Hobart, WA
oh i know about the 3-4 shift. funky, but I have driven them before ;)
Unless it's mine... Try that trick and you get 5th gear...

The data plate won't help either as I swapped in a direct drive for the tires...

I may have a connector that came off a CUCV which just had small gage wires and a weatherpack on it - I'll dig around tonight...

Matt
 

hwcurtice

Well-known member
1,558
35
48
Location
Moncks Corner, SC
Unless it's mine... Try that trick and you get 5th gear...

The data plate won't help either as I swapped in a direct drive for the tires...

I may have a connector that came off a CUCV which just had small gage wires and a weatherpack on it - I'll dig around tonight...

Matt

KEWL! Sounds just like what is needed for this fab job!
 

srodocker

Well-known member
6,549
68
48
Location
Lacey, Washington
so went to dans to drop off my truck as my surgery is tomorrow morning. he had his son cleaning up a yard next to his barn so he can move his horse trailer back and make some more room. he also has is front yard open to parking so were good on room!! so excited!
 

hwcurtice

Well-known member
1,558
35
48
Location
Moncks Corner, SC
Here's my nickles worth ----

There's a seller on ebay selling adapters if you were to want to go that route, but wants $125.00 p/unit. Rather excessive. We can do one for far less.

Has the trailer been connected to a Mil Veh to insure all the lights function as designed yet? Very important.

Are the lights on it now the old style round shape, or the newer composite oval shape with the large red lens? Also important if converting to LEDs.

There's no real need for a plate light, as it wasn't made with one. There wasn't one on the Deuce and 105 I had, nor one on the 5 ton or M101CDN we have now and there's never been a problem with the Constabulary. I've never heard of anybody else being "talked to" about it either.

Unless your trailer's been a desert climate most of the time, the wiring should be okay. The 105 was a '53, and only needed a couple wires replaced due to a branch snagging them. It's usually the rubber coupler coverings that dry, crack and go bad.

The female, or vehicle mounted plug could most likely be had at Brads. Maybe somebody could pick one up before the 12th. Be sure there's at least 4 inches of wire to work with.

If you go to ebay motors, and look in military parts, or enter military LED, there are some tail light facings being sold for $30.00 per unit. The item number is 170591894392. The sellers user name is Bronco_buddy. They're desert tan, but can be masked and painted to match. If you convert to them, the stock lights will need to have to have the existing innards completely removed. (I did this with my 5 ton, and they work great.)

Or, to convert to 12 v, pull the 24v bulbs. Take them the local parts house and get the 12v equivalent. This was done to our M101CDN jeep tlr we pull behind the Blazer.

Bring along two small unopened tubes (one or 2 oz) of silicone, a can of liquid tape, or a can of black "Plasti- Dip" (hard to find, but Lowes has it in the spray paint rack) and at least 4 ea 1/2 or 1" paint brushes, along with your wire and connectors. I'll show you how to do the connections so they'll never leak. Bring wire ties (at least 8 inches, preferably 14 inches) and a couple rolls of high quality black tape also.

14ga wire will be more than adequate to make the adapter. Better yet, if you have or can get a pigtail (the coiled cable that goes from a semi tractor to the trailer) bring that. If the plugs are messed up that's okay. They'll be chucked anyway, and replaced with what you're putting on.

I'll bring a test light, crimpers, a multi meter, jumper wires and such.

See ya on the 12th.

Um, it has the kind with the blackouts below. I thought I saw them shown as Swiss style lights, but I'm not 100% on that. I saw them being sold on Uncle Sam's previously but not lately.

I'm going to have take someone shopping with me to get some of this stuff.

Where's that emoticon of the guy scratching his head when you need him?
 

Alex400

New member
324
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0
Location
Seattle/Ellensburg, WA
Unless it's mine... Try that trick and you get 5th gear...

The data plate won't help either as I swapped in a direct drive for the tires...

I may have a connector that came off a CUCV which just had small gage wires and a weatherpack on it - I'll dig around tonight...

Matt
HAhahaha, well that would throw me. but that's a good idea when going to the oversized tires.
 
Well, this will be a blast. I'm looking forward to the engine, IP, and trailer work. I enjoy learning about new stuff all the time.

I don't know what I'd buy at Brads, but would still like to go on a run, just to look around if nothing else. Are we making two trips or just one, before Dans?

Good luck with your surgery Scott, good thing you have a G.F., you'll be needing her for a while. :oops::mrgreen:

See you all on the 12th.
 

hwcurtice

Well-known member
1,558
35
48
Location
Moncks Corner, SC
Without reposting again, that eBay link has shape of my taillights. Like I mentioned, mine have the blackout lights as well below the red lens.

Also, you were talking about what I would call 'Zip ties', right? For tying the wires to the frame. Correct?
 
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