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260 amp alternator

Ronmar

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The battery connected to ground on its neg terminal is the 0-12 battery. The jumper from its + terminal to the neg terminal of the 12-24 battery(series jumper) is where you connect the 12v line. It can connect to either end of the series jumper(+ terminal on 0-12 or neg terminal on 12-24 batt) as they are the same point electrically.
 

coachgeo

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Yeah, if that's the case I've seen it installed in several trucks.

He asked if it would work and we really need to know the alternator model number to confirm for certain.
hummer alt. pics w/ numbers

you have to:

> slightly drill larger holes in the alternator ears (FMTV larger bolt)
> need to make spacers for said longer/larger bolt to hit both the ears which are farther apart than FMTV bracket takes. pretty simple>
> move the regulator however you choose..... I'd consider trying to keep it on alt body so regulators internal temp sensor is operating within the parameters it was designed. Most have not done that and been fine though.

Pretty straight forward thing.
 

Attachments

Third From Texas

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hummer alt. pics w/ numbers

you have to:

> slightly drill larger holes in the alternator ears (FMTV larger bolt)
> need to make spacers for said longer/larger bolt to hit both the ears which are farther apart than FMTV bracket takes. pretty simple>
> move the regulator however you choose..... I'd consider trying to keep it on alt body so regulators internal temp sensor is operating within the parameters it was designed. Most have not done that and been fine though.

Pretty straight forward thing.
I'm certain your assumption is correct, but he has not posted a pic of the alt placard/model number.

Are you confirming that that regulator he pictured is not used on any other Neuhoff dual voltage alt?
 

coachgeo

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I'm certain your assumption is correct, but he has not posted a pic of the alt placard/model number.

Are you confirming that that regulator he pictured is not used on any other Neuhoff dual voltage alt?
only confirming the one I bought and put on my truck. (pics). Ebay one is same type...

and another
 
Last edited:

serpico760

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I see the Acela is a installing a new bracket and a prestolight 24 volt alternator with a 24 to 12 converter. I don't suppose anyone has a contact at Acela that would get them to sell these brackets to us?!
 

deckerfire

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I see the Acela is a installing a new bracket and a prestolight 24 volt alternator with a 24 to 12 converter. I don't suppose anyone has a contact at Acela that would get them to sell these brackets to us?!
Are a fire truck show the owner said they were going to start selling there excess stuff and it has not happened yet and they dont like sharing to much info.
 

Guruman

Not so new member
I would love to see that wiring diagram how they do that
I have not swapped out the alternator just yet, but I have the balancer in place. It's not complicated. Just tape off the 12v alternator lead. And the 12/24 balancer just has neg, 12+, and 24+ connections.

I would consider adding a big relay to disconnect the balancer though as it does drain the batteries eventually ( or maybe that's just he A0 parasitic draw?)
 

Bryteayes

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My 1998 M1079 with a 2013 box has the stock four battery 12 / 24 volt configuration. What is gained by changing to a single voltage system? What is lost? I plan on putting solar on the roof. Does 12 vs 24 volt solar have advantages / disadvantages.

Thanks in advance,
 

Ronmar

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I would love to see that wiring diagram how they do that
What Guruman said, not difficult at all. Ground 12 and 24v connections. It takes whatever is on 24v and outputs exactly 1/2 of that on the 12v lead. You can either connect it as a battery balancer, or use the 12v output standalone like any other 24-12 converter. I am still running a 100A dual volt alt but have installed a vanner balancer as a 12v power source under my dash, so am only feeding 24v to my cab. I still have 12 and 24 from alt to batteries, as that is required for the alternator to operate properly, but I no longer have any 12v connection to my batteries. If my alt fails I will shift to a commonly available 100-150A truck 24v alt. I detailed that install here…
 

Ronmar

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My 1998 M1079 with a 2013 box has the stock four battery 12 / 24 volt configuration. What is gained by changing to a single voltage system? What is lost? I plan on putting solar on the roof. Does 12 vs 24 volt solar have advantages / disadvantages.

Thanks in advance,
We loose a lot out of the dual volt running 60 of its 100A @12v(current limitations in the windings). With both legs Fully loaded by lighting and depleted batts, it is only capable of ~1950watts. 100A @ 24V is 2400W, so single voltage has ~19% more output available.

if you are still running the 4 battery config, you should really consider dropping to 2 batteries. The alt has trouble keeping them fully charged unless you run long hours. Low state of charge is the biggest killer of batteries which in turn keep the alt in a constant state of overload, shortening its life as well.

For a given amount of power(watts), 24V has the advantage of requiring 1/2 the current, and needing 1/2 the wire gauge, so a 24v solar install has a very large infrastructure advantage ofer a 12v system, especially when you consider the panels are on top of the box/habitat and the batteries are under the box…

You can also have lower current draws from the batteries for a given load so lower Pukert losses in the batteries…
 

Bryteayes

Member
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86
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Location
San Angelo, TX
We loose a lot out of the dual volt running 60 of its 100A @12v(current limitations in the windings). With both legs Fully loaded by lighting and depleted batts, it is only capable of ~1950watts. 100A @ 24V is 2400W, so single voltage has ~19% more output available.

if you are still running the 4 battery config, you should really consider dropping to 2 batteries. The alt has trouble keeping them fully charged unless you run long hours. Low state of charge is the biggest killer of batteries which in turn keep the alt in a constant state of overload, shortening its life as well.

For a given amount of power(watts), 24V has the advantage of requiring 1/2 the current, and needing 1/2 the wire gauge, so a 24v solar install has a very large infrastructure advantage ofer a 12v system, especially when you consider the panels are on top of the box/habitat and the batteries are under the box…

You can also have lower current draws from the batteries for a given load so lower Pukert losses in the batteries…
Thank you for the information
 
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