3 lever switch bypass

[N1265]

Well it looks like my newer 3 lever switch is deciding to cut out on its own again, I can run the normal lights without a problem but whenever I plug in a trailer, run the emergency flashers, or use the high beams the CB in the 3 lever switch starts kicking out.

I am wondering if anybody has ever made a " bypass plug " that would " jump " the terminals on the female side at the switch connection ? I am only worried about the service drive lights.

Can this be done ?

 

[goodbrewing]

I bypassed the one in my M886 It wasn't hard to do. On mine none of the factory wires had been cut. I had a wire diagram from a haynes manual for the w200 as referance to how the factory wires were. You may also need to hook a relay into the parking lights before the trailer plug. It will allow you to put heavier loads on the lights like the trailer.
Good luck.

 

[N1265]

Thanks for the reply,

I have made a pig tail with an in line fuse and will try to figure out what positions on the plug I need to wire in a week or so.

At least now I know it can be done.

 

[N1265]

Well I tried to bypass the switch today but failed, I tried to jump pin F ( witch is constantly hot ) to all the other pins ( one by one ) to get the lights going . I figured that by doing this it would complete the circuit and work, But no dice.

Is this how you bypassed your switch ?

Got any pictures ? or remember which pins to jump?

Thanks,

 

[goodbrewing]

What I did was to follow the wires back to where they were hooked into the origional vehicle wireing, disconected them and put it back to factory origional.
I don't have any pictures but if you get a haynes manual for the W200 it should have the factory wireing diagram in it. On mine none of the origional wires were cut. They were just removed from plugs and others put in their place.
Some of them have a relay added in the headlight circuit . Mine is behind the glove box. I left it hooked up as it allows trailer lights to be used without overloading the headlight switch. If you don't have one you may want to put one in. It is no fun to lose all your lights when towing a trailer at night on a dark road.

 

[NDT]

My 880 trips the circuit breaker just like yours with a trailer running the headlights. I have a wire spliced into the lowbeam wire near the battery with a alligator clip on the end, when I am pulling a trailer at night, I just hook the clip to the battery post. Crude but it works.

 

[N1265]

GOODBREWING : I thought of doing it that way, but the original wires that were taken out of the headlight switch were cut and taped, Plus I want the option to hook the 3 lever switch back up and "show off" the blackout lights in the future.

I have the wiring diagrams for both the civilian wiring and the blackout wiring. I also have a copy of the "blackout light kit installation " instructions. You wouldn't think it would be that hard to figure out what pins to jump to bypass the switch, but it's kicking my azz. I must be overlooking something simple...

My truck did come from Dodge with the relay by the glove box. It is a parking lamp relay and the circuit also has a 10 amp circuit breaker mounted in the fuse panel. it is there for the sole purpose of running extra lights on the truck, I have replaced both of these but I am still having trouble when I run everything. The last time I had this trouble I replaced the 3-lever switch and the problem went away for a while. Oh well...




NDT : interesting idea, I will give that some thought .


Many Thanks for your guys help, if you think of anything else please let me know...