Ya that's a good point, I don't know why i didn't think of that before. Well anyways still let me know how they set in the wheel wells. What lift are you running with them ?
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37" hummer tire balancing
- Thread starter chesapeake
- Start date
Cool that's what I when't with, did the add a leaf in the back had to remove 2 leafs to make it work
chesapeake
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I went a different route. I am keeping my stock wheels and I bought a set of Powerkings 9.00 X 16. I am hoping to get them put on this weekend. They are essentialy a 35x10. As soon as I get them on I will report back with pictures. I got them out the door for $725
chesapeake
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I got them on Friday. It took a good bit of weight to balance them out. It definitely lowered the RPMs and I can go faster if I choose. It rides rough and the faster you go the rougher it gets. It does best at 50 mph, which is fine with me.
I have had it hit the back of the front fenders twice. Both times I was pulling into a parking lot and hit a bump. I went out in my cattle field and played and it never hit.
Question for ya'll. Last night I went to back up and it felt like my rear brakes were locked up. I pulled forward and it was fine. Went back to reverse and it was fine. This happend 3-4 times. I drove home and tried reversed twice in my driveway and it was fine. Would going to a taller tire have caused this?
Ill get pics as soon as I can
I have had it hit the back of the front fenders twice. Both times I was pulling into a parking lot and hit a bump. I went out in my cattle field and played and it never hit.
Question for ya'll. Last night I went to back up and it felt like my rear brakes were locked up. I pulled forward and it was fine. Went back to reverse and it was fine. This happend 3-4 times. I drove home and tried reversed twice in my driveway and it was fine. Would going to a taller tire have caused this?
Ill get pics as soon as I can
chesapeake
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How did they balance out?
SGT LongT
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This might also help in balancing http://mrtruck.net/centramatic.htm . Hub mounted continuous balancing sounds pretty darn nice.
richingalveston
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I have the centramatic balancers and they work really well. I have the ones for the H1 Hummer wheels that they sell. They work with my recentered Humer wheels and the Hutchinson gm beadlocks that I have. They do not work with the stock CUCV wheels. I believe the smaller ones made for the 1 ton chevy trucks work with the stock wheels.
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At first I mounted a set of Balance Masters behind each wheel, but due to the high weight of my tire and wheel combination, they didn't have the capacity. So I took them off and sold them, and installed 15 ounces of Dyna Beads in each tube. Now my ride is smooth as silk. Absolutely no vibration whatsoever.
LibertyCinamon
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Followed the thread here about balancing the 37“ HMMWV wheels on the M1102 trailer that I got in September 2019. The Centramatic balancers do not work. The trailer and the truck are vibrating like crazy at speed from 50 MPH on up to 70 MPH. The vibration is slightly bearable at 70+ MPH but in California at that speed is asking for tickets when maximum speed is 55 MPH. I am looking to put 265/70R16 on GM steel wheels for a better long distance ride and travel.
richingalveston
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you do have to do an initial balance with the weights first. I had a truck tire shop do mine with stick on weights inside the rim. but it still had slight vibrations which got worse at different speeds. I then added the cetramatics and it rides smooth at all speeds now. Most heavy wheels will need an initial balance with weights.
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I am currently running new BFG 37's on completely refurbished 12-bolt wheels with new O-rings and Trail-Worthy-Fab's PVC inserts (see my avatar). No run-flats. I am using CentroMatic balancers, consisting of steel balls rotating in a tube. These seem to work better than the Balance Masters, which has a fluid that rotates in a tube. I have owned and run both. The Balance Masters seem to have a better ability to balance the 37's, however they still do not completely smooth out the ride by themselves. I echo what Rich said above, if you plan to use either of these 2 products, you should at the very least have the tire/wheel assembly pre-balanced with stick-on weights prior to installation.
Having said all that, and from my past experience, I am convinced that Dyna-Beads will out-perform both Balance Masters and CentroMatics for heavy tires without having to pre-balance them with stick-on weights. Dyna Beads rotate inside the airspace in the tire at the outer-most diameter while rotating, as opposed to Balance Masters and Centromatics which rotate at a smaller diameter aroung the hub circle. Dyna Beads are small, perfectly round ceramic beads which can be installed through the valve stem after the wheel/tire has been assembled, and even after the wheel/tire has been installed on the vehicle. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/
I am preparing to mount a new set of 11.00/20 NDTs and new tubes on my custom 20" Firestone split rims, and I will install 16 ounces (a full pound) of Dyna Beads in each tube. I used Dyna Beads in my last set of 11.00/20s and the ride was as smooth as my wife's Mercedes. Here's a photo -
Having said all that, and from my past experience, I am convinced that Dyna-Beads will out-perform both Balance Masters and CentroMatics for heavy tires without having to pre-balance them with stick-on weights. Dyna Beads rotate inside the airspace in the tire at the outer-most diameter while rotating, as opposed to Balance Masters and Centromatics which rotate at a smaller diameter aroung the hub circle. Dyna Beads are small, perfectly round ceramic beads which can be installed through the valve stem after the wheel/tire has been assembled, and even after the wheel/tire has been installed on the vehicle. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/
I am preparing to mount a new set of 11.00/20 NDTs and new tubes on my custom 20" Firestone split rims, and I will install 16 ounces (a full pound) of Dyna Beads in each tube. I used Dyna Beads in my last set of 11.00/20s and the ride was as smooth as my wife's Mercedes. Here's a photo -
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LibertyCinamon
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Rich,
Thanks for the reply and suggestions. I went and got the wheels balanced this morning and only managed to have the trailer going smooth at 55 MPH. Above that speed it still has the vibrations but not quite as strong as before. I can live with 55 MPH. Any further suggestions from the community on further improvement is greatly appreciated.
LibertyCinamon
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BTW, here is the built.
Attachments
richingalveston
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nice trailer, if it is still out of balance some, it would not hurt to put some balance beads also.
if those tires are byas ply, non radial, I have heard of people having real problems getting them balanced. for high speed.
if those tires are byas ply, non radial, I have heard of people having real problems getting them balanced. for high speed.
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I meant to say earlier, welcome to the forum.
Yes that is indeed a nice trailer. It would be helpful to other SS members to learn more about how you outfitted it. Maybe a new thread?
Also to let you know, I just now ordered the Dyna Beads for my NDT tires. Total cost was a fraction of the cost of the Balance Masters or Centromatics.
LibertyCinamon
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Sharecropper,
The trailer is a simple build to have a weather/dust proof top that is extended 15.5” above the original trailer side walls and tailgate. This can support a variety of cargo including a 95 liter fridge/freezer. The frame to support the roof, the side walls and front panel is made of 1”x1” extruded x-shape aluminum that goes directly into the holes that were made to support the posts for the canvas cover. The top panel (roof) is made of 0.5” marine grade plywood and sealed with rubber coating for waterproofing. The side panels are made of same plywood but sealed with Olympic Elite wood oil to give the color and sealing on both sides of the panels. The hardest part is making the hatch to cover the gate and overlapping with the rear tail light pillars. That is best shown with pictures and I can sent those when I can get to it.
The rack system that supports the roof rack and the roof top tent is extendable to 12” above the resting position for moving on the road. There are four linear electric actuator (200 lbs support capability)) on each corner of the rack system. In the drive mode (moving position), the rack is compressed onto the roof to minimize vibrations and other road induced movements on the rack. This helps to keep everything in place. With the 37” tires the rack system does not need to move because the height is about 72” above ground. When smaller tires are used, then the rack will be raised to get either 72” or 78” as the tent builder is recommended.
Stored between the roof and the rack are tables for use during camping. Also there are two 100 Watts solar panels stored between the roof and the rack. The tables and the solar panels are secured when the rack is compressed onto the roof. Inside the trailer are 12 Volt deep cycle battery and lights and small device charging system for phones and other electronics. The battery also runs the fridge. When driving, the car charges the battery. When at camp, the solar panels charge the battery.