3rd alt for M1008, 09, 28, etc

[llong66]

I was wondering if it would be possible to use the mounting brackets and such from an M1010 to put a 3rd alt. on my M1008 for camper use and such? I was looking briefly over the TMs and saw how both alts are mounted on the pass side on the M1010 to allow for the AC compressor. I am sure this would take drive pulley mods at the least, but is there anything I am missing? I would use the 3rd alt for charging a battery bank in the rear "camper" part of my M1008 now that I have a topper. I have solar panels for charging the rear bank, but the 3rd alt could be used during periods of cloudy weather or heavy use. I know that the storage box for the rear bank would need to be vented properly and such.
Any thoughts on this idea? Pit falls?

Thanks,
Greg

 

[nyoffroad]

It would be a LOT easier to install a battery isolator from one of the existing alternators and then run the #2 charge post back to your separate battery bank. I bet you can find a good deal on one on fleabay, easy to mount and only 3 wires to hook up. One wire directly from the alt. then a wire from #1 to vehicle battery and #2 to aux. battery.

 

[Keith_J]

Well, you could add another sheave to the crank and locate a third alternator next to the fuel pump down low. Since I have an electric motor driven AC compressor (mounted to the frame rail under passenger seat), this is one of my brain droppings to get a bit more power. I was thinking of the Leece Neeville 50 amp units off an MEP803 generator. It would only be on when the AC compressor is running.

I experimented with my MEP026 when running the air conditioning, turning the voltage up on the 026 until the truck voltmeter was in the green white hash mark, the 026 was putting out 60 amperes.

 

[llong66]

nyoffroad, I agree with you 100% the idea was more of kind of a thought experiment than anything. Another reason I had thought of for going with an M1010 setup would be to allow the placement of a your style compressor on the DS alt location for on board air.
Keith_J, I want to study your motor driven AC setup more as a possible alternative for driving a compressor for an on board air supply.
Thanks for your thoughts!

Greg

 

[llong66]

Keith_J, I looked over your AC setup, very nice! Like I mentioned above I was also thinking of using the M1010 alt setup and then running a york compressor setup to fill a tank for on board air. When I started looking at 24v DC motors, however, my teeth about fell out!!! $350ish is the best I could find on an auction site and that's only a 1 HP motor. I'm not sure that would be enough to run a compressor as an air pump. This almost makes me think I would be better off running an inverter and an AC motor, I have several now from my solar grid I was installing when I lived in Mt. The largest one I have is 2KW continuous and it would run my well pump so it should be fine. Since it would only be running when I need air, I thin this might be the best rout to go. Any thoughts or anything I am missing?

Thanks,
Greg

 

[tim292stro]

If you were going to do the York, I say run it directly to the engine's belt. Fewer energy conversion steps. If you're trying to charge a third bank you could use the 24V across both batteries to a charger for the other bank - half the current at twice the voltage to get the same power, and would split the load across two alternators easing the wear and tear a bit.

The other thing you could do is put in a larger alternator somewhere... The difference between a 100Amp's size and a 175Amp's is not that much, going to two 100Amp alternators where there was one is a bit change. You could also go way bigger and do a 200Amp 24V alternator on one side and do the York on the other side, then use a Vanner/equalizer to balance the two batteries (and power the native 12V loads of the truck).

 

[Recovry4x4]

Clarification, do you want more power or onboard air? M1010 setup with 2 165A Leece Neville alts gives you lots of power. Th A6 compressor used on the M1010 is also easy to convert for onboard air.

 

[llong66]

Tim, thanks much for the ideas, I am not super well versed in auto electric like you are talking so that gives me something to study up on!
Recovery4x4, I would like to have both actually. As I first mentioned, a way to charge a bank of batteries in my "camper area" now that I have a topper when my solar isn't enough as well as on-board air.

 

[tim292stro]

Don't be scared, just be careful.

A while back I did start a thread in the CUCV section about electrical stuff, I never did have time to finish that, and I probably should - one section was supposed to be about charging batteries (like an auxiliary bank). If you can avoid adding more than you need you'll be better off, less to fail, less to repair, easier to trouble shoot, less impact on the original vehicle's operation...

Electric compressors in DC are not great - they aren't intended for high duty cycle (run-time versus rest-time, most retail ones are 20% run-time or less). AC compressors are better for higher-duty cycles - but I think you'd want to plan what you're going to do with it, figure out what's practical and work from there.

For my Fake CUCV Crew Cab build, I'm designing around having the truck power a camp and a "radio shack", so the first concern is fuel capacity, then power generation. If you're planning to do a lot of dry camping with your truck, you'll want to start by reducing and eliminating as many loads as possible. LED fixtures sip power, and are getting ridiculously cheap nowadays - focusing on task-lighting rather than full-space lighting with reduce the amount of light you have to produce and the power the lights consume. I'm sure you know that passive ventilation (windows/vents) is more efficient than powered ventilation - if you can handle being a bit warm with a good breeze versus being air conditioned then you can save a ton of power. If you're stationary, the benefits of having a shade canopy over your campsite are huge.

I can't find a link for it now, but to save wear on your "driving engine" another person built their own DC generator by using a small single cylinder engine powering a belt-driven alternator. If you have the space this can be a good way to make up what your solar array can't do, and if you have a spare York around, you can run it off the same engine to get air. If it's an air cooled engine, you can run copper coils through a few fins and pick up hot water when the engine is running. Try to maximize what you can pull out of the fuel being burned. A separate pull-start engine and alternator like that would also give you options for self rescue should you drain a battery in the engine compartment standing you in the middle of no-where with no cell signal.

You mentioned a "topper" is this a roof-top pop-up tent? If so, which one did you go with? Pics?

 

[llong66]

Tim, thanks again for your time, thoughts, and ideas! I have included some pics of the topper I have, you can see the exterior door that opens almost the whole length of the pass. side. It is also taller than a typical topper which is one reason I bought it for camping use. I have not decided what I am going to do with the pass side compartment, in the interior shot, you can see it does not take up alot of space, but I still may reduce it a little. It has the ladder rack on top which is 1. going to give me a base to build a slightly larger cargo rack, and 2 it also allows enough room under it to place 2 80 watt solar panels, I am going to build a slide in system for them so I can remove them at camp and place them at the best angle for my location and, if the rack is not full they will be producing charge while driving. In full sun, these two panels will charge 3 12v deep cycles. I used a similar system in Mt. to run my well pump and my fridge and freezer. For ventilation, I am going to put an RV style roof vent with a 12v fan and make a screen cover to snap in slace over the tail gate area as well as put a sliding window in the front.
I am not scared of playing with the electrical challenges, I have had a fair amount of experience with solar installs and I used to teach physical science, so its more of a challenge to learn something new.
After what we have discussed here and I have read online I am leaning toward just going with two larger alts, possibly in the M1010 configuration, and the air compressor in one of the alt locations, or down below, Ill just have to play around with what works best. I do very much like your thoughts on using a separate motor though, all VERY good points! I am hoping to pick up a M101A2 this summer so I will have much more room for equip. storage. I like the thought of scavenging hot water from a seperate motor, I have been looking at heat exchangers for hot water, but this would require using the truck motor and much more fuel.

Thanks again,
Greg

 

[tim292stro]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmZ5-9a0Rac

 

[tim292stro]

One that's more like your mountain retreat...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wq1GoO_NuaU

 

[Recovry4x4]

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Puma-PD1006-Air-Compressor/p13972.html FWIW I have this small 12V continuous duty compressor in my contact truck. My needs for air amount to filling and blowing off parts. All of my impacts are cordless so no real need for portable air tools. It even has it's own cute little tank. I still have the truck mounted tank for additional reserve. There are quite a fewnreviews of it in the off road forums.

 

[tim292stro]

If you are going for power and speedy recharge off-grid, get the largest panel you can physically fit under your roof rack - they aren't too expensive right now. In addition to making a slide-out storage compartment under your roof rack, you could also put drawer slides to allow your panels to pull out to either side (left, right) when you park. Bonus would be getting some more shade on the side sof your shell.

Something like:

 

[Keith_J]

Compressed air is easy to get on my M1031 SECM. Well, when not moving, transfer case in neutral, PTO engaged and transmission in drive. Flip two breakers, wait a minute and 120 PSI air ( I set the off pressure a bit higher, the pop off is a 150 PSI).