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5 ton dump truck questions

rickdavis81

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I posted awhile back about a truck but the logistics of getting it home isn't going to work out. I actually found one a mile from my work and 20 miles from home. It's a 1968 m51a2 multifuel dumptruck. Rebuilt in 1989. He said everything works and it starts but the injection pump was leaking fuel so he changed it with a new one. Now he can't get all the air bled out. Said the return line always has air bubbles. Any ideas? She's pretty ugly but only 2 small rust spots. Tires are crap. What would it take to single it out to 49's or 53's? Bad idea for a dump that I'll actually use? Any idea on value?
 

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red

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If you're going to work the truck stay with 11"s or 395's, the LDS multifuel engine in that truck is gutless compared to the newer engines.
 

Floridianson

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I might first check to see if the in tank fuel pump is pumping buy opening up the bleeder or removing the return line on the fuel tank. When the in tank fuel pump is working the air is cleared without doing anything to injection pump or injectors. This is the beauty of the multi fuel set up. If that's working then I might move on to the rubber pickup line in the fuel tank.
 
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rickdavis81

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I was kinda thinking it might be sucking air on the intake side of the fuel system. Do they run an electric pump? Would they be able to start and run if it wasn't running? He said it'd fire on ether and load on a trailer.
 

rickdavis81

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I'm assuming the 11's would fit the stock wheel but the 395's would require a 10"? Would 395's allow it to be singled out? Or would I be better off leaving it with duals?
 

simp5782

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I'm assuming the 11's would fit the stock wheel but the 395's would require a 10"? Would 395's allow it to be singled out? Or would I be better off leaving it with duals?
395s require a beadlock wheel. They are fairly cheap to come by. 11.00s will fit as that is what tires are on the truck at the moment.
I'm assuming the 11's would fit the stock wheel but the 395's would require a 10"? Would 395's allow it to be singled out? Or would I be better off leaving it with duals?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

tobyS

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I've had an 817 with duals and a 929 with singles. I'd stay with the duals because with a load, the singles can be "bouncy" and not as stable. I think the 395 would be a bit better than the 14.00 as it's not as tall, but if I had money, I'd go to dual 12.00 tubeless in the rear. The G177 in 11.00 is a good tire.

I don't know how to do it, but the 365 that is on the deuce A3 is the same diameter as the 11.00 and would make a good flotation tire for the front, but alas....they do not fit the combat super single rims (at the bead, A3 is "metric" and the combat "industrial"). Re'centering would not be out of the question.

When I had fuel issues on one, I took a fuel tank, about 1 1/2 gal and put a hose in it to bypass all of the other hoses and left-right valve and put it on the top of the engine, so gravity did the pump work.
 

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Fifth Weel Driver

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we work our 5 tons. with the oringinal tires with 30 psi in them off road. fule replace with electrice had same problem. we have the 800s cummins and multi fuel dump, fifth wheel,cargo and anavy water truck
 

rickdavis81

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Well looks like I'll be the proud new owner of a m51a2 fixer upper. Didn't think he was gonna budge on price but we came to an agreement. Found a guy selling some Goodyear 11.00r 20 g177's. It'll be a drive to get em but hopefully make it next weekend. I appreciate all the help and I'm sure I'm gonna have a ton of questions for you guys as I start my new hobby.
 

M543A2

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I agree with TobyS, stay with duals, more stable. Also, with duals you can have one tire fail and still limp along to get home or to help. Blow a big single and you are stopped. I often think of that when I see semi's with the new super wide singles. I automatically think "Buddy, blow or puncture one of them and you are done!". Instant expensive road service call! One fuel distribution business here tried them on tanker semi's and soon quit, back to duals, for that reason. Also, so aggravating to me, new tires must not have much if any honest rubber in them. A few years and cracks start to appear. I have not had any new truck tires, but I see it with aggravating regularity on car and pickup tires anymore. Our old trucks, including the dump, have the older military tires on them and none of this to me premature cracking is happening on them and some are dated in the '70's. I have never had one of them fail in what I could attribute to their old age, we just wear the tread off them. I have a homemade welder trailer with a tire on it that was on a farm wagon Dad bought when I was about 10, it is now about 60 years old, still going without the cracking and failures that have happened to newer used tires on the other side of the axle. I think tire companies are doing like other product designers nowadays, design it to last only so long. "Let's see the engineer says, a driver normally wears out a tire in x miles and say three years, so why design it to last longer than that?" Also, true rubber tires would probably be very expensive if even possible to make now. Many times it sucks to be an old guy that knows how good products used to be made and has to live with what we get nowadays.
 
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