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5ton combat rims recentered for the M35

276
22
18
Location
Hobart, WA
I know this has been a long time coming but here is the finished product; if anyone would like machining print information on how to do this please let me know - there are several variations on this theme as far as the placement of the center which affects the scrub and clearance of the tires... I used a compromise to allow a 14.00r20 to fit up from and not rub anywhere lock to lock as well as keeping the rear inline with the nose as much as possible.

The donor rims are just the standard split ring center - hacked out and turned on the lathe to make an interferance fit register.

The shells are 5 ton combat rims with the 10 place 3/4" studs (small o-ring) - I removed the 10 lug budd pattern and turned the register socket in the shell.

Knocked the two parts together and evenly TIG tack them before making alternating passes to keep weld distortion to a minimum.

Some paint and assembly and they went on the truck (well 4 of them did! :wink:) - I am still in the process of speading the rear axles and reworking the drivelines to fit the center axle's tires on. I already have the control arms done just need to install them and modify the slipper spring brackets.

Edit: The axles have been spread and Jules is out and about...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=29109

Interaxle driveline gains 4 inches and the t-case to axle shaft loses 2 inches.

Enjoy...

Matt
 

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276
22
18
Location
Hobart, WA
Thanks guys - I tend to get an idea and want to do all the work myself so it always adds the the skill set even if it takes more time...

If work didn't tie me up so much with OT and travel I would make more progress - but I nip at it a little at a time...
 

mightyhammer

New member
141
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Location
Lewiston, ID.
Got to hand it to ya...Looks great. Now that we have our own place I am looking for a lathe of my own so I can get some turning of my own done. Sure are handy. I have done similar center swaps with splits and fared ok just carefully centering and measuring. Like you said, it is very important to get her tacked in several adjacent areas before gluing the mess together with long beads. Nice tig work by the way! I'd let ya weld on my stuff any day! COOP
 
276
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Location
Hobart, WA
Thanks guys - I get kinda maniacal when working on my own stuff... Ok at work too - probably why they send me out to fix the random crap no one else wants to touch in the field...

Was never intending to make them commercially - No idea what I'd charge - probably be way too obnoxious once I figured all the time - probably looking at close to $275 in materials for each wheel (combat rim, duece rim, new nuts, oring and valvestem...) plus the labor - sheesh you'd end up with a $500 rim before you knew it!

But like I said I would be more than happy to help anyone who wants to try it with dimensional info, and tips...

Found a local place in seattle that can order the new turret valves for the 5-ton rims and has orings too... Northwest Supply Company (on 1st and Mead)

Matt
 
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276
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Location
Hobart, WA
I don't think even my 18" swing lathe will accomodate the large diameter wheel.
Well done job. Quality.
Yep about 10" shy - it took a 28" swing to do the shells... the other option is to do it like this with a cnc (or rotary table - if you're chronically old school) - but even that was a tight fit...

I did 3 like this before finding a lathe big enough... 2 insert center-cutting indexable 1" shank endmill... It was sketchy at best on the plunge cuts... :shock:
 

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Jakob

Member
722
5
18
Location
Louisville, KY
I've been halfway keeping an eye out for 5-ton wheels here (being so close to Ft Knox) with this idea in mind. I'm not too knowledgeable (sp?) in machining and didn't even know this was an option! Hell, I'll have to more actively look around since the only real thing holding me back from going super singles is the cost of the wheels.
 
276
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Location
Hobart, WA
Yeah - my issue is more or less a time limited one - I don't have enough time to work on my own projects let alone work on items for sale...

And yes the liability is a concern...
 
276
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Location
Hobart, WA
Haven't got a true drawing together but the basic info is as follows...

The 5-ton rims get the bolt pattern parted off 0.250" above the lock ring flange.

Then turn a 0.075" deep by 14.875" diameter counter bore into the shell - this will register the center. Edge break all surfaces.

The center comes from a factory rim - the old rivet rims have the thickest centers but the standard rim has plenty of meat as well.

Lay out the OEM deuce rim so you can remove the center and turn it to 15.000" OD - Can be milled, turned, ground, sawn, plasma, torched, ect Just get it free to go in the lathe.

Turn the OEM center to 15.000" OD - then from the convex side make a clearance cut to a diameter of 14.625 as to allow the center to rest on the flat and not the curved face.

Next turn a 0.065" deep by 14.875 - 14.876 OD pilot which will press into the shell register.

Edge break and blend all corners and you are ready to assemble and weld.

Clean everything and then degrease - bang together the center and shell; tack the pieces in alternating sides and keeping the heat low, then run final passes.

Install studs, paint, and mount valve stems and tires - simple... right :roll:

Matt
 

vinny-socom1

New member
1,360
4
0
Location
Ocala, Florida
Theres a wheel company in Jax, FL that will recenter 5ton rims for $100.00 each. I was thinking of doing it when I had my duce but it was easier to just buy a 5ton. Vinny
 
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