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6.2 quality valve cover gaskets? Tips/tricks?

McSpeed

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Anybody have source for quality rubber/steel shimmed style valve cover gaskets?

Mine are leaking...and since it looks like a pain in the butt to do...I don't want to do it again.

Looks like the injector lines have to come off for access - anything else?

I then have to bleed them to get it to re-start...right?

Just break the line loose at the base and spin it over?
 

McSpeed

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as stated, the key is new valve cover, clean surface, quality RTV and waiting 24hrs....never had a problem
Reviving and OLD thread - so I can no longer ignore this leak.

I looked at the guide TM 9-2320-280-34 - it says remove the fuel injector lines.

But, I don't see the connect to the link for that - does that mean intake manifold off to properly unscrew the fuel injector lines?
 

McSpeed

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Palmer, AK
as stated, the key is new valve cover, clean surface, quality RTV and waiting 24hrs....never had a problem
So...you are not wrong. In fact, I discovered the right valve cover had a JB weld repair at some point in the exact area it is still leaking.

I have put in an order and am now waiting on covers - CDR hoses...and more.

It is a MESS in there - what a terrible design! It takes and army to do this as you have to keep moving from one side of the windshield to the other. Would be so much faster with two guys. Anyway, all is on hold now until parts arrive. Going to clean up and paint some brackets and parts.

Debating removing the fuel pump assembly to clean, inspect, and paint - not sure what that involves now (I've seen some instructions on a civilian 6.2).
 

Maxjeep1

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I got it done. Ugly thankless job. I made a video about it. Worst video ever!

Did you do the valve cover’s once before? I noticed that orange rtv was used on previous gaskets and you used it on new valve covers. I don’t think orange is for that application but I’m probably wrong. Glad you used new covers. I believe RHW said not to reuse them. I did my IP on my non-runner and I was thinking about doing valve covers because I was just a few bolts away from being there. It’s probably hard being in Alaska because you have to get by with what’s available to you… nice job and it looks great!
 

McSpeed

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Location
Palmer, AK
God, I hope I never have to do that...
The fact the passenger side was cracked and jb welded at the place it was leaking was likely my biggest issue. If yours are not cracked and were well sealed by the last soldier in there you are good to go.
 

Mogman

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If you take a civilian vehicle to the dealer with a 6.2/6.5L diesel for valve cover gaskets they will simply bend the lines out of the way after disconnecting them from the injectors, it is called "flat rating" the job.
At least that is how we did the 5.7L diesel, same poop different smell.
 

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
If you take a civilian vehicle to the dealer with a 6.2/6.5L diesel for valve cover gaskets they will simply bend the lines out of the way after disconnecting them from the injectors, it is called "flat rating" the job.
At least that is how we did the 5.7L diesel, same poop different smell.
I thought about it. But considering how dirty the engine was and something I read that struck fear in me about breaking internal coating loose in the lines. That’s probably totally made up but worth considering. A kink in the line would suck. But yep. Total cluster. Would be easy Peasy out on an engine stand or with a continuous partner helping. Doing it as an army of one was terrible.
 

87cr250r

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Rodeo, Ca
Yeah, don't do that. Lines come off the pump in 4 pairs. It takes 5 minutes to take them all off once the manifold is clear. If you take the lines off in sets you don't have to remove any clamps. This is true for most diesel engines.
 
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