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6.2 questions

Cucvnut

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So since the interwebs is full of good and bad info ill ask a trusted source. Im doing a Turbo swap. I have some questions.

#1 will the shorter 6.5 injectors work on my 6.2 or do I want to swap heads on my j code diesel?

#2 Do I need to use the 6.5 injector lines with my swap?

#3 what are excessive egt'ss with a turbo set up? Where or what brand are good EGT and boost gauges

#4 If I keep stuff stock should I swap to 6.5 head gaskets? Ive read the 6.2 heads on some motors have sealing issues after this is done? I will need new head bolts correct?

#5 How do i block off the map port on my 6.5 upper intake?

Thanks
 
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gimpyrobb

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So since the interwebs is full of good and bad info ill ask a trusted source. Im doing a Turbo swap. I have some questions.

#1 will the shorter 6.5 injectors work on my 6.2 or do I want to swap heads on my j code diesel? Yes, you may need to tweek the injector lines though

#2 Do I need to use the 6.5 injector lines with my swap? no, see above.

#3 what are excessive egt'ss with a turbo set up? Where or what brand are good EGT and boost gauges 1200* is good to stay under, Isspro or Hewit

#4 If I keep stuff stock should I swap to 6.5 head gaskets? Ive read the 6.2 heads on some motors have sealing issues after this is done? I will need new head bolts correct? switch to studs

#5 How do i block off the map port on my 6.5 upper intake? dunno.

Thanks
Most of this info I found on the diesel place, might want to snoop around over there.
 

CUCVFAN

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Man, I'm not sure if anyone else has their preferences set to "Higher Contrast" for viewing this site, but using black/dark text is marginal on the regular site, in my opinion. With the high-contrast, it makes totally unreadable, as seen in this screenshot... I wasn't even sure there was anything there at first! :shock:

SS_contrast.jpg

With that said, however, I will add that I have a Banks turbo kit on one of my 6.2 trucks and I believe the "let off the pedal" limit, according to Banks, is 1100°. I've taken it to about 1000° myself, and even that was only for a brief second. I usually make sure I'm under 950°. This is measured right after the turbo.
 

patracy

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So since the interwebs is full of good and bad info ill ask a trusted source. Im doing a Turbo swap. I have some questions.

#1 will the shorter 6.5 injectors work on my 6.2 or do I want to swap heads on my j code diesel?

#2 Do I need to use the 6.5 injector lines with my swap?

#3 what are excessive egt'ss with a turbo set up? Where or what brand are good EGT and boost gauges[/FONT][/COLOR]

#4 If I keep stuff stock should I swap to 6.5 head gaskets? Ive read the 6.2 heads on some motors have sealing issues after this is done? I will need new head bolts correct?

#5 How do i block off the map port on my 6.5 upper intake?

Thanks

#1 injectors will work, but lines are different. They can be used if you're ok with bending.

#2 See #1

#3 Keep EGTs under 1250 to be safe. I've had good service out of Isspro gauges. (BTW, keep boost under 12psi)

#4 I would keep it stock, if there's no HG problems. Otherwise, yes, the 6.5 HG will slightly lower CR (a good thing in this case). Early early 6.2's had reusable bolts, but after 83 all were TTY, I'd replace them, or upgrade to studs.

#5 I just left the MAP sensor in.
 

gimpyrobb

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Good point PATracy, if your building a motor, build it as an 18:1 comp ratio so you can use higher boost(hence more power) without worry of head gasket failure.
 

Cucvnut

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My biggest concern is the gaskets, I feel that i dont need to swap them out right now but I will at some point go to studs and 6.5 head and thicker gaskets to help the Cr lower a little.
 

patracy

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Just remember the melting point of the Aluminum pistons is 1221°F. Probably ought to stay under that...
They're not completely aluminum. They're an aluminum alloy. EGT probe should be installed pre-turbo of course. Romps above 1300 are "ok" in short bursts. 1250 is "ok" as well, but I wouldn't run it at that temp for miles.

FWIW, I've had a few diesels (6.2, 6.5, 6.6 Duramax, 5.9 cummins) all of them were subjected to romps up to 1500 at one point in time or more. Not saying it's wise. Just saying there's not a magic number that things will instantly melt down. (Also after those runs, load was reduced [neutral] and RPMs were kept up to help try to cool things down)
 
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If your going to dump all that money into a 6.2L why not just do a full 6.5L swap and have the turbo and better heads and be done with it. I've seen complete 6.5L engines go for as little as $400. If you want a real motor then go for the cummins 3.9L or 5.9L. Now if you want the ultimate cool factor then you have to go 53 series Detroit. But then again I do have a little affiliation with the 2-stroke driptroits.
 

Cucvnut

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Carver, Oregon
If your going to dump all that money into a 6.2L why not just do a full 6.5L swap and have the turbo and better heads and be done with it. I've seen complete 6.5L engines go for as little as $400. If you want a real motor then go for the cummins 3.9L or 5.9L. Now if you want the ultimate cool factor then you have to go 53 series Detroit. But then again I do have a little affiliation with the 2-stroke driptroits.
You paying for any of that stuff? Im hardly spending any money on this. Your post its garbage. It has no value go troll somewhere else.
 
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patracy

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I don't think it was meant as a troll Matthew nor was it a garbage post. I've owned all sorts of diesels. I will not discount the fact that the 5.9 is a superior engine to the 6.2/6.5. But the entry cost is what keeps it out of reach most of the time. Stock for stock, the 5.9/3.9 will outlast/perform the 6.2/6.5. Modified, and the cummins leaves the 6.2/6.5 in the dust. (In terms of performance potential, durability, cost) And I have a soft spot for the detroit two strokes as well, but not something for a daily driver.
 

Cucvnut

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If i want to drive a cummins 1028 i can drive my friends. I just hate people who offer no value to your post and tell you how to spend your money.
 

patracy

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If i want to drive a cummins 1028 i can drive my friends. I just hate people who offer no value to your post and tell you how to spend your money.
Matthew, I know in the past you were adamant with me about how I needed to install a crossover steering setup on my CUCV. The factory adjusted steering has worked fine for me since I only drive the truck on ht road for the most part. I'm not trying to pick a fight or belittle you, just pointing out that you're guilty of it as well. (I completely agree that a crossover steering setup is better though.)
 
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