6.2L detroit into...

[patracy]

ok lets try to bring some facts to light on this dream machine.... first it wont be light anymore as stated earlier. second driveline length will be very short as stated earlier. so to properly build this vehiclelets go this route. First cut and section in 12-16 inches to the frame this will lenghten the drive lines. Second cut and roll your axles to allow proper angle.Third lower trans and t-case cross member 1 1/2 inches. Fourth fish plate and gusset frame where new motor mounts will be for added weight. Fifth raise top of fenders at least 5 inches to accomadate added height of 6.2. Sixth lenghten fenders and hood front and back 6 inches to accomadate lenghtened frame. Seventh take a second mortgage out on your house as to do this dream machine it will cost you appox.25-30k material and labor. Eighth dream machine 25-30k ....new side by side ATV 10,800 with winch.

One could easily build four links front and rear, run fullsize truck axles to allow the wheels to go outboard of the body. Then push the axles to the very ends of the frame.

I'd sell my diesel samurai for about half the price of your dream machine costs.

 

[gunner01]

patracy... what you state is correct however I think you need to reread his application setting. He wants to be able to run small trails with his buddies who have ATVs,quads etc. A four point suspension would be ideal ,so lets add long travel components such as shocks new they cost around 1500.00 each times that by 4=6000.00 next lets add long travel A-arms now if you shorten them to accomadate the trails he wants to ride on they no longer will be long travellets next add tires and wheels so just for ****z and giggles lets putsuper swamppers on with just a basic white spoke wheel this will cost approx400.00 a corner (new of course) but I am sure you might be able to find some super singles you could adapt. over the last 43 years I have built many off road vehicles for mild to wild.done things people said could not be done.Sure you can build offroad vehicles cheaper however when does personal safety and the safety of others come into effect.Compromizing cost for safety should never be done.After all the rides built,ran on streets,racing (track) desert running, and all around just for the **** of it offroading we have never had an incident of failure from the modifications done to frames,suspension.Only failures have come from motors and trannys and tires these are expected to happen in the racing and offroad industry. let me name a few of the trucksthat I and my friends have put together. 1976 K5 blazer w/ a 453t detroit diesel with air brakes and bolted to a stock GM 4 spd tranny and 6 inch lift,1979 Ford bronco w/28 inches lift auto snurf bars 4500 watt Nachamichi sound system air brakes slightly built 400 motor to almost 900 hp. and lets not forget the good old original King Kong 1974 Ford F-250 with a multi fuel motor and 2 1/2 ton axles under her yes this vehicle was owned and operated by Jeff Dane who is a good friend of mine.myself and brother in law helped him put together that truck.We are currently working on a 2000 ford ranger with all the long travel equip to race desertw/a 302 powerplant should be a fun ride. so in the event of safety and build sake please reread his desires then understand where my post came from practiality not it could be.

 

[AgeOfDarkness94]

Perhaps i was mistaken ? I had not factored in the weight of the engine into my logic DOH! alas, all is not lost.

I see there will be a TON of mod work involved in doing such a complex build project here, I get it. however, It appears I was not completely clear about my intentions with using a micro suv as a chassis. Maneuverability, reliability, efficiency, and simplicity are ALL important aspects of this build. I want to be able to go where no one has on before with a wheeled vehicle, cutting my own trails and maybe even using it for a stalker vehicle for hunting (with a really quiet muffler kit). I want to do something very similar to patract's Samurai, but with a full top, air ride suspension, and 2" wheel spacers all around to increase stability. maybe even a manual air locker in both the front and rear diffs.
Not looking to apes*** with tire and motor size, ideally a small VW diesel or the stock motor with dual tc's. I have ABSOLUTELY ZERO experience with dual reduction setups so someone please inform me of how to do this and potential drawbacks involved here. my biggest question with the dual tc setup is that will I lose a great deal of high gearing for cruising and highway travel? not an expert on tcs by any means but don't they make part time transfer cases that can be switched off entirely? I have no idea what I'm talking about here someone please correct my ignorance before I hurt myself thinking too hard!
Anywho, thanks big time to EVERYONE and your opinions, some better than others.

the attached is very similar to what I had in mind just SLIGHTLY smaller tires and perhaps a softer spring kit with airbag suspension. IDK yet I'm still figuring out my budget on this project. (4 dr Sidekick Sport coils, Sky Manufacturing 2" coil spacers.
31x10.5 tires on modified Ford p/u 15x8 rims)

thanks again to all!

-Tyler

 

[patracy]

The setup I have uses a sidekick/tracker transmission and a hacked up 'kick/tracker t-case. (The front output section has been cut off the housing and re-welded back into just a gear reduction box) The 'kick/tracker t-case has a 1:1 high range and a 1:1.98 low range. So in high range you're not affecting highway speed. The samurai t-case however does have gear reduction in the high ranges. (My memory fails me at the moment, but I want to say it's around 1:1.43 in high) BUT the samurai axles only contain a 3.73 gear ratio. The kick and trackers had MUCH lower ratios in the axles.

The VW diesel likes to turn at 3K rpm. That puts me at about 55-60mph with 32" tires.

I will warn you on a few things. 1. The adapter kit is about $600 for the transmission. 2. Get a performance clutch. I bought a stock clutch and had it slipping in 5th and 4th gear first drive out. (I'm running a centerforce clutch) 3. The timing belt setups are crummy on the VW diesels. I had the cam sprocket come slightly loose on mine and mangle my first engine. Make sure to drop a dab of blue locktight on that nut, and always change the belt and tensioner every 60K. 4. Buy the best glow plugs you can with the internal regulators so they don't burn out. These engines will start with three working glow plugs. Two glow plugs, you MIGHT get it to catch. One working glow plug, forget it! 5. Stick with a 1.6 turbo diesel or 1.9 engine. Stay away from the early 1.5 11mm head and the 1.6 11mm head. You'll wish you had a turbo if you get a NA 1.6.

Feel free to PM me with any questions, as I've been there and done it when it comes to these things...

 

[Josh]

Check out this rig for sale (not mine). But it may give ya some ideas about what can be done with a sami/sidekick

1992 Suzuki Sidekick Crawler Oregon 5,000obo - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board