• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

6.2L repower wiring

jimmystikx

New member
13
0
1
Location
North, FL
I'm looking to begin repowering mine with a CUCV 6.2L take out motor near the end of next month. I was looking for any tips anyone might have for maintaining a wiring setup similar to the CUCV where the charging and starting circuits are 24v but accessory circuits (lights, dash, etc.) are 12v as all of my stuff is currently 12v. Thanks in advance.
 

nattieleather

Well-known member
1,885
135
63
Location
Cleveland, OH
You will have to make up a system similar to the CUCV because the injector pump cutoff relay is 12v on the CUCV and if you are keeping the stock CUCV alternators then you will have two 12v outputs.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,775
227
63
Location
OKC, OK
Barrman did the same transplant into a M715. He setup the wiring that same as the CUCV.

If you can understand the concept of the 12v/24v CUCV setup, it is an easy install. The key is using the "isolated ground" alternator for the 24v portion of the setup.
 
Last edited:

Barrman

Well-known member
5,199
1,654
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Warthog beat me to it. I took a M1009 pull out engine with the entire M1009 engine wiring and swapped everything over to a HMMWV pull out engine to put in my M715. I followed the wiring diagrams from the CUCV -20 manual. I drove it to work today, works great.

As the other Joe pointed out, the CUCV engines are 12 volt. If you want to keep your M37 24 volt then you just need a 24 volt on/off solenoid (HMMWV 6.2s have this with Packard wire fittings.) and 24 volt glow plugs. Plus some way to control them. My M715 was already 12 volt so I just duplicated the CUCV wiring under the hood.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,199
1,654
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
The 6.2 wiring is really very easy. Constant power to the top of the IP to turn it on (pink wire). Constant power to the sensor on the passenger side outside rear of the head that controls power to the cold advance/fast idle solenoids (green wire). Both pink and green need to come on and go off with the key/ignition switch.

Everything else is either to help it get started, glow plugs or to keep it running, alternators, or to report how it is doing, gauges. Plus of course the starter motor which is a big wire from the battery and a small wire from your starter switch. Very simple if you just take it in small chunks.
 

jimmystikx

New member
13
0
1
Location
North, FL
Got the parts. Going to read up on some things for it and freshen up the axles and engine over the winter. Hopefully I can find a line on a Spicer 5spd and the needed parts, if not, the 465 I have will be bolted in.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks