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6.2L Water pump leaking M998

chazd1

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I am chasing water leaks. It continues.

- Surge Tank Crack -- Fixed with OEM tank
- Thermostat Housing -- Fixed with new thermostat, thermostat housing, gasket and permatex.

- Now I am seeing spray around the back of the water pump pulley at 220 degrees

Any advice of water pump replacement? Part sourcing?

Looks like it might be Part Number 23500085
 

Autonomy_Lost

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The water pump mounts with an adapter plate. I recommend getting a new plate.

As for the pump itself, I dont have the p/n on hand but be careful because the 6.2 and 6.5 are reverse from eachother. EDIT: Another member pointed out it depends on v-belt vs serpentine, not 6.2 vs 6.5

MAC motors should have what you need in stock, and they'll make sure you get the right parts.
 
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mgFray

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I had similar problems in my 6.5L GEP, when I chased all the leaks, the rad cap started poping, turned out I had a head gasket leak, exhaust was getting into the coolant raising the pressure.

so as you chase leaks, if you can’t stop them, check for exhaust in the coolant. (When it first started I didn’t have coolant in the exhaust, until one day…)
 

chazd1

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I had similar problems in my 6.5L GEP, when I chased all the leaks, the rad cap started poping, turned out I had a head gasket leak, exhaust was getting into the coolant raising the pressure.

so as you chase leaks, if you can’t stop them, check for exhaust in the coolant. (When it first started I didn’t have coolant in the exhaust, until one day…)
I am been thinking along those lines. Maybe a bit of wishful thinking that it is not head gasket. I am going to look/smell again in the coolant for bubbles and /or exhaust fumes.

What did you do when you finally determined it was a head gasket? Were you thinking it was a cracked block/head?
 

mgFray

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It started on mine of dripping fluid, I fixed all the drips.. (New hoses, replaced the big metal one that was always 'wet' under the vehicle as well.. Then as I drove it, got more drips on the top where the new hoses sealed to the front of the engine.. Then got that resolved.. and then I was driving and the radiator boiled over (pressure cap let go, boiled out most of the fluid...). Couldn't find anything wrong.. (exhaust was NOT white in any way for any of that!). Then refilled the tank, it happened on more time (just sitting in the driveway while I was diagnosing things... and suddenly I started getting white in the exhaust (and the radiator cap kept releasing). So I knew I had a head gasket or head problem (or block cracked).

Brought it into a shop, since winter was just starting I had to rely on someone else. Anyway, they got it apart confirmed that there was a tear in head gasket on one side.. BUT they also found a crack in one of the valve seats on both heads, but the block was good.. cylinder walls looked good, no sign of damage. (The cylinder heads themselves had some marks on them, looks like parts of a glow plug went though it while it was running, but no damage to rings or cylinder walls, that we could tell.). So 2 new aftermarket heads and head gasket.. and she is sealed up. (But the shop I took it to, I'm a "backup job". When they have down time, they're working on the HMMWV. It's still not done, almost all assembled, once they finish they're going to drive it for a few days to verify it's all holding together properly.

So it's POSSIBLE the crack in the exhaust valve (on both heads) was part of the problem, but there was definitely a bad spot in one of the gaskets. The belief is that is was 'self-sealing' when cold, and more or less acting as a one-way valve for a long time letting small amounts of exhast into the coolant, but eventually failed.
 

mgFray

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Yeah... it looks like I have at least a bad head gasket.

Anybody know of mechanic that will do engine work on the M998 in the Atlanta area?
Don't know anything about the Atlanta area. But I found a diesel mechanic that knew Detroit Diesel and more commerical vehicles. Talked with them and got it scheduled that way. You may need to call around to find someone willing to work on a military vehicle, as well as mechanically injected system. (This is more involved then just a part swapper, but not that much more!)

When I brought it to the shop, I also gave them (on a USB disk) all of the manuals for the HMMWV, including parts manuals, engine manuals, etc. Since they couldn't use their regular source (All Data), it allowed them to understand the job, take everything apart and put it all back together properly.

I also setup with them if they needed any parts I would attempt to source them. This allowed me to get the head gasket (MacMotors) and new heads from JEGS, so I was sure the parts I was choosing to put in. Other things like hose clamps, etc I just had them source through their normal supplier.

One nice thing about the HMMWV, if it IS a head gasket/head job, they do not need to use a lift to service this. It can all be done on the ground. Part of the reason the shop I took it to agreed to work on it was they could park the HMMWV in the corner of their shop and everything could be worked on without sacrificing lift capacity for the remainder of the shop.
 

chazd1

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Yeah... it looks like I have at least a bad head gasket.

Anybody know of mechanic that will do engine work on the M998 in the Atlanta area?
I am posting additional diagnostics info. I used a "Reld" test. The diagnostic clearly indicates that I have exhaust gas in the coolant even though you can't see it,

All the symptoms:
  • Some significant valve? noise
  • Apparent over-pressure on cooling system. (new leaks, over flow tank bulging slightly)
  • Overheating
  • Positive "Reld" test (see pics, first pic IMG-1353 is before starting/running engine. last pic IMG-1360 after the engine was fully warmed up)

I found a place in Atlanta that will work on the M998 (Advanced Maintenance in College Park). I will be taking it there for new heads? Hoses, water pump. What else should I replace with a head off job?
 

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mgFray

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Replace all the rubber hoses, I.e. injector return hoses, coolant hoses, etc. otherwise head gasket, and heads if they are cracked/faulty. You will need new head bolts, and some additional gaskets.

in my case I gave the shop A head gasket kit, bolts, the heads, and the injector copper gaskets. They recommended and sourced everything else.
 

chazd1

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Replace all the rubber hoses, I.e. injector return hoses, coolant hoses, etc. otherwise head gasket, and heads if they are cracked/faulty. You will need new head bolts, and some additional gaskets.

in my case I gave the shop A head gasket kit, bolts, the heads, and the injector copper gaskets. They recommended and sourced everything else.

I have my M998 in the shop. I need a recommendation on Remanufactured heads or head kits. I thought I saw some on jegs, but am now having issues finding them.

Any recommendation for buying 6.2l reman'd heads?
 

mgFray

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The ProMaxx heads are the ones I used on my 6.5L (detuned), I believe they are the same heads for the 6.2L (but please check, I'm not 100% sure). The only criticism I have of the ProMaxx heads is the pre-cup was 'rough', while the original military one was smooth. But I couldn't find a current production of the smooth cup, so I left the rough one in place.

About 1000 miles on the promaxx heads so far so good!

The part number was: 723-CHE856N

723-CHE855N is the wrong head, that is for the turbo application.
 

Mogman

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Double check, I don't think they are the same, the listings I looked at only stated 92-2000 6.5L
 

mgFray

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Found some references that the heads can be used, BUT angle is different on the injectors, which can mess with the lines from the injection pump. So ya, they'll "work", but with modification to other stuff.. probably not worth it, if you can either find 6.2L heads or find a shop that can repair the ones you have.
 

Mogman

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Careful inspection may reveal the moved the pre cups, that would explain why the injector angles are different. (along with possible other improvements to combustion)
The 6.5L has a larger bore, this means the fire ring would land in a different place on the pre cups, it may work just fine but I cannot imagine an engineer would leave that alone as I am sure there is a "calculation" of just where the fire ring should land on the pre cup.
The fire ring is the part of the head gasket comes in contact with the combustion.
 
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