77 m880 with no crank after a 3in body lift. help!!

[digitalchi]

Ok so i have a 1977 auto trans m880. The truck used to crank all the time(had problems firing cause of the carburetor but already got a new one on the way). I can previously lift the truck bed about a week ago and decided to lift the cab yesterday.

Got all the blocks in place but not without some wires stretching as i figured. The cables to the starter from the relay were stretched pretty bad so both were rewired. But no crank when key is turned, Nothing!. When ignition is turned on all lights turn on,radio etc. I can jump the starter solenoid with a screw driver and it cranks.

Just discovered today the Neutral safety switch wires were also stretched and broken so i ordered and new switch and wire harness. hopefully that fix's the issuse.

But now i have other problem. I didn't loosen the steering column when lifting the driver side and i thought it extended itself no problem..but i cant shift the truck passed reverse. It goes from park to reverse but wont go passed it. Anyone know what could be causing that?

If anyone has done a 3in body lift did you have to extend the steering column or adjust the shift linkage after lifting the cab?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

just to recap

-No crank..starter, starter relay, and battery have been ruled out.

Cant shift passed reverse after lifting the cab.(nothing done to steering shaft or shift linkage).

will upload some pics tomorrow

 

[tm america]

you have to extend the linkage rod going from the column to the trans it should be the 3inch long rod in the kit you bought .some cheap body lift kits dont come with it

 

[tm america]

the wires going to the neutral safey switch are for the wire going to the starter relay and for the back up lights the center pin is for the back up lights it internally grounds to complete the circuit for the back up lights.and the two outer wires are for the starter wire they make continuity when in neutrl or park you can jump the two outer wires and it should start when the key is turned to the crank position

 

[digitalchi]

ahh ok thanks alot. The kit did come with an extension but i thought that was for the floor shifter. either way i work in a shop and i can find a 3inch rod to extend the linkage. Doesn't it matter where on the rod i cut and weld or anywhere will do?

Also i meant starter relay sorry ill try to jump it tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

[tm america]

try to put it in a place that is straight up and down . you need to be sure that where you put it wont make the rod hit anything i ussually put them close to the column whenever possible

 

[digitalchi]

ok and that should allow it to shift freely from park to neutral and etc?

 

[tm america]

yes right now the ratio is off cuz the rod isnt long enough .after you lenghten the rod three inches you will probably still need to adjust it.put the shifter in park and lossen the adjustment make sure the trans is in park and tighten the adjustment that should get you pretty close

 

[tm america]

this should all be in the instructions but think about it you moved the body three inches away from the trans now you need to lenghten the rod three inches to make everything back where it should be

 

[digitalchi]

yeah im pretty sure it was in the instructions but..i sorta just glanced over em -_- thanks though haha

 

[tm america]

ya we all do that sometime those extra pieces are called shoulder parts just throw em over your should and forget about but once in awhile we end up looking for where we threw them

 

[digitalchi]

ok so here is the extension that came with the kit...3inches as you said it should be.



here is the shift linkage.




not sure if you can tell what gear its in but i know its not in park like it says it is...
tommorow ill try to cut and weld in the extension as close to the steering column as you said.

also here is the NSS



got a new switch and harness on the way

 

[digitalchi]

Also if the linkage is stuck how exact will i be able to weld in the extender. Should i take the whole thing back cut and weld then just reinstall it?

 

[tm america]

it is easier to take it out cut it weld it in then reinstall it and i see the one wire is broken at the neutral safety switch which will definately make it not crank

 

[digitalchi]

ok so got the alternator wired up and the rod in plus a new NSS and harness,and it cranks up everytime..




But sigh now i have a new problem. The alternator is a Powermaster 17509 - Powermaster Street Alternators - Overview - SummitRacing.com and i have it hooked up with a high output wiring kit.

the problem is when i start the truck the volt meter is a lil below the mid range the more things i turn on the lower it goes till the truck just cuts off.

I also have a new optima battery in so im not sure what the problem could be.

One guess i had was in the pic you can see the belt is slanted a lil back toward the alternator pully making it not so tight..plus the belt is cracked and makes a faint flapping noise.

Would this cause the alternator to not preform well? I have new belts on the way and will try to pull the alternator towards the radiator a little more so its aligned better with the fan pulley.

Thanks for the help

 

[derby]

A loose or slipping Alt belt will affect your out put.

 

[derby]

Also ,you want a very good alignment or you will eat belts. Put a straight edge on the edge of the pully.

 

[tm america]

i would think that you have the field and exciter wires switched that will make the alt not put out.i would take the alt off take it to autozone to have it tested just to be sure its good i have seen alot of new alts not put out what they are suppose to .if its good you know you have a wiring problem.one of the small wires going to the alt should only have power when the key is on that is the exciter wire the other small wire is the field wire .make sure they are hooked up to the right terminal on the alt