Well crap. Unfortunately I had to buy five as a MOQ. I believe this is the shell they used to build these but I can not get the bulb out to make one since they glued and soldered the little lamp inside. I tried with the bulb that was burnt and disintegrated it. Another lamp was so broken the lens fell apart on me at least i have these good lenses too put in the holes. If anyone stumbles across these lights I would still like to get my hands on some.
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803A trailer mounted power plant. Lamps
- Thread starter grywitt
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These bulbs should fit your sockets without removing the Lense.
Back in the days, the lenses came separate with the bulbs, but that changed in the late 2000's. Now you are lucky if you can get the ones you got.
Right. The lenses that broke were very crumbley from being in the sun and weather for many years. I wish I could get the bulbs out of the old ones too build me lights. I ordered a couple t2 neon lights that hopefully will combine with the lenses to make working lights. If so I'll buy another 5 lenses so I can make it look brand new. You can see how bad of shape some of my lights are
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Ok, let me see if I got the whole picture here.
You got 5 new bulbs and installed them as they were shipped . Then you started the Genset and the bulbs flashed for a split second and then went dark?
No. There are no lights in the bulbs. They are just shells. One pic is a light from the gen. The other is the ones that just came. I've tried to take the little bulb out of the ones in the gen that work. They don't come out. The one that burnt up the other day I decided to see what it would take to get it out. They are crimped, glued and soldered into the shell
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Sure, no problem, just wanted to make sure we are on the same page!
vrzff
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This thing I found looks pretty damned close. I know your lens is clear, so this part number should hopefully send you down the right rabbit hole.
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Those will work. Its what we used on the old 004A, fault indicator.
Copy that. I ordered these hoping they will fit in the lenses I received that actually look real nice and fit and they even come with the o ring on them already. Just no light ha ha. I'm hoping these will slide into them. If so i should be good to go. If not I'll probably buy the ones VRZFF found. They don't have to be clear. I would like them all to be the same though. I have the 4 lights working right now with the least weathered lenses on them.
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vrzff
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Something else interesting I found, their style nickname is stovepipe.
Search ebay for "dialight stovepipe".
Search ebay for "dialight stovepipe".
2Pbfeet
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Can you measure the OD on the bulb barrel, and the flange, and the overall height of the bulb (Guesstimate inside your new housings)?
All the best, 2PbFeet
EDIT: removed incorrect info.
All the best, 2PbFeet
EDIT: removed incorrect info.
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They are 120 volt ac neon bulbs. Here are some pics of some dimensions. If i missed one Ill get it. I really like these new housings. They fit right and even come with the oring. If i can find the right lamp to go inside them the machine will be tip top. Even if I could get the lamps out of the weathered bulbs but they aren't meant to come out. Ha ha
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2Pbfeet
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I can't seem to find a drop in better than what you have.
FWIW: There are 120V waterproof LEDs available, but they would look different. E.g. these, 8mm 50 lumens
or these 6mm
https://www.amazon.com/Gebildet-12-24V-Indicator-Waterproof-Directional/dp/B08LDDS59D
(I know that the link says 12-24V, but it goes to their 110V version.)
Both are significantly less expensive.
All the best, 2PbFeet
FWIW: There are 120V waterproof LEDs available, but they would look different. E.g. these, 8mm 50 lumens
or these 6mm
https://www.amazon.com/Gebildet-12-24V-Indicator-Waterproof-Directional/dp/B08LDDS59D
(I know that the link says 12-24V, but it goes to their 110V version.)
Both are significantly less expensive.
All the best, 2PbFeet
Those would work just fine except I would need to use some washers or something because the hole in the box is 12mm. The base the bulb drops into. I really like to keep things stock if possible but it can be expensive trying to source outdated materials. Thank you though I didn't really think about just putting new different lights all together. If it comes to that I can increase the hole size for the next size up if I can't find a 12mm light. Heck led would be much better really. My ex wife was an electronics tech and she worked for a lighting company and she told me then the future of lights was led. This is 42 years ago so at the time it didn't make a lot of sense. Funny to think about that now.
Thank you again. I think the people on here and there help have definitely got me on a path to success with these lights.
Thank you personally also. You always seem to have great input with all my projects.
Thank you again. I think the people on here and there help have definitely got me on a path to success with these lights.
Thank you personally also. You always seem to have great input with all my projects.
2Pbfeet
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The 12mm is very common as it is lost 1/2". These come with a better water resistance;
Always happy to help, and I understand the desire to keep things stock.
All the best, 2PbFeet
Always happy to help, and I understand the desire to keep things stock.
All the best, 2PbFeet
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@grywitt the reason why I asked the question is as follows:
The Lightbulb's originated in the latter part of WWII and were used in almost all American Aircraft.
Those Bulbs had 3 parts:
1. a panel mountable socket with two solder leads
2. a 28V AC/DC Light Bulb
3. A cap, either clear or colored.
After WWII, GE started using these Bulb Types on their kitchen stoves adding two more Bulb variants with 115VAC and 230VAC rating. They served as warning lights, to remind the overworked housewife that she had left a burner or the oven on.
The Defense Industry then started using those again ( app 1950 Korean War ) and this is where it got complicated:
The sockets now were made in four versions:
1. Regular panel mountable socket
2. Panel Mountable Socket with Resistor for 28V Bulb to be operated on 48V Telecommunications equipment
3. Panel Mountable Socket with Resistor for 28V Bulb to be operated on 115 VAC
4. Panel Mountable Socket with Resistor for 28V Bulb to be operated on 230 VAC
Then came the bulbs with permanently affixed caps as an additional variant. These became mandatory for all equipment which was tested and had to meet the MIL-STD for vibration and acceleration / G Forces as the removable caps would fall off at times on Generators, Tanks, Jets etc etc
All together there was a about 200 different part numbers available for all sorts of possible combinations.
Bendix used to have all off them in their printed catalogs until 1998.
Unfortunately, I threw all our catalogs and databook's out in early 2000, because everything was being published in pdf, except the Bendix / Allied Signal stuff as Bendix was bought out by Knorr Bremsen........
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We had not hundreds, but thousands of these lights in HAWK. When Basic HAWK got the first computer that I had ever seen or heard about in 1977, you needed sun glasses to look at it. A million blinking lights. And all the rest of the equipment had them too. When we went IMPROVED, PIP, all the lights started to be LEDs.
2Pbfeet
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Ok, if the bulb itself, per @peapvp, is a 28VAC bulb, then these should work;
www.mcmaster.com
Clear, red, green.
Not including the cap/outer cap.
All the best, 2PbFeet
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Not including the cap/outer cap.
All the best, 2PbFeet