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804A power transfer issue

DBLE

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Location
Acworth, NH
Genset has 100 hrs on it. Was operating fine, making power. I shut down to adjust fan belt, and change oil. Now seems doesn’t transfer power, power is generated to line side of contactor, transfer panel mounted transfer switch seems fine. Any ideas ? Any problematic known issues?
 

Evvy Fesler

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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93
Location
Roxboro, North Carolina USA
Genset has 100 hrs on it. Was operating fine, making power. I shut down to adjust fan belt, and change oil. Now seems doesn’t transfer power, power is generated to line side of contactor, transfer panel mounted transfer switch seems fine. Any ideas ? Any problematic known issues?
Welcome!

Genset has 100 hours on it since it was last overhauled. It's a subtlety, but important to understand, and that's if the hour meter hadn't been disconnected or non functional and replaced as a result.

Did you download the Technical Manuals (TM) yet? You can find them here on this site for free.



Evvy-
 

DBLE

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Location
Acworth, NH
Mullaney,
Thank you I’ll take a look, if it gets too deep may be beyond my skill set. Any idea in my area that a qualified service person or company. So west NH.
 

Guyfang

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Gen set has 100 hrs on it. Was operating fine, making power. I shut down to adjust fan belt, and change oil. Now seems doesn’t transfer power, power is generated to line side of contactor, transfer panel mounted transfer switch seems fine. Any ideas ? Any problematic known issues?

So, its a matter of the K1, (AC output contactor) not closing? When you push the S5, (AC Contactor on/off switch) up, the DS7, (AC contactor on off light) comes on? Or not?
 
Last edited:

DBLE

New member
17
13
3
Location
Acworth, NH
Gen set has 100 hrs on it. Was operating fine, making power. I shut down to adjust fan belt, and change oil. Now seems doesn’t transfer power, power is generated to line side of contactor, transfer panel mounted transfer switch seems fine. Any ideas ? Any problematic known issues?

So, its a matter of the K1, (AC output contactor) not closing? When you push the S5, (AC Contactor on/off switch) up, the S7, (AC contactor on off light) comes on? Or not?
 

Guyfang

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This kinda narrows it down a bit.

What makes you think the S5 is good? Did you test it? Its rarely a problem.

Try this. Place the S1, (Master switch) in the run position.
Place the S7, (Battle Short switch) in the up position. Push the S5 up, to the on position. Do you get a DS7, (AC interupter light) light come on? Do you hear a clunk?
 

DBLE

New member
17
13
3
Location
Acworth, NH
This kinda narrows it down a bit.

What makes you think the S5 is good? Did you test it? Its rarely a problem.

Try this. Place the S1, (Master switch) in the run position.
Place the S7, (Battle Short switch) in the up position. Push the S5 up, to the on position. Do you get a DS7, (AC interupter light) light come on? Do you hear a clunk?
 

DBLE

New member
17
13
3
Location
Acworth, NH
Guyfang Sir,
S1 in Run position , (unit not started S1 only in run position), S7 battle short SW up lamp is illuminated. S5 AC interrupter SW up, lamp is not lit, no clunk heard, (as it seems contactor does not pull in, assuming that’s the clunk you are referring to?)
 

Evvy Fesler

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
366
769
93
Location
Roxboro, North Carolina USA
Guyfang Sir,
S1 in Run position , (unit not started S1 only in run position), S7 battle short SW up lamp is illuminated. S5 AC interrupter SW up, lamp is not lit, no clunk heard, (as it seems contactor does not pull in, assuming that’s the clunk you are referring to?)
Yes, that's what he means. The contactor is a heavy duty relay. A low voltage controls it via the switch S5. It clunks when it pulls in.
 

Guyfang

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Something else you can do.

1. If the K1 is still in the set, Do the same test with the S1 and S7, and mesure with your multimeter at K1-X for 24VDC, while someone else pushes the S5 to the up position. Then do it again with K1.Y, as sometimes the wires get hooked back up wrong. A relay is not polarity sensitive, will work if Pos. and Neg are interchanged. Do you get voltage?
1672482924178.png

Or, if K1 is out, simply take two wires from the Batteries, and go to K1-X and K1Y. touch the terminals, and the K1 should work. If not, then take it apart. Should have wrote this last night, but ran out of time.
 

DBLE

New member
17
13
3
Location
Acworth, NH
On 15 Feb. 1993, people stopped calling me sir. So should you. Guy works just fine.
Guy, Understood, in locating K1 (power transfer contactor, it is a bit Inaccessible, it appears the top of the genset will need to be removed for adequate accessibility.)Rain is forecasted here in the New Hampshire, this machine is not yet undercover. I’ll respond once troubleshooting procedure as you have detailed is executed. If the K1 coil is the failed culprit? (Yet to be determined) are they available As a direct replacement? Or source a contactor of proper coil and rated contact amperage ?
best Vic,
 
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