• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

804A S5 Toggle

Alamo Water Service

New member
12
8
3
Location
San Antonio
Good day. I have a bad S5 INTERRUPTER switch. I can't find a replacement anywhere. Will part number 8906K4519 for the 803 work? TM for the 804 has part number 88-21076. Is there a good site to acquire parts? thanks
 

Alamo Water Service

New member
12
8
3
Location
San Antonio
Have you tested the switch to verify it's really bad? The switches very rarely fail in these sets.
Yes sir. I have tested S5 and it seems to be bad per the TM results. K1 contacts are not pulling in and the interrupter light works when I push it in. I pulled and tested K1 via 24vdc and it checks out. I then proceeded with the switch and got bad readings when I followed the manual. Ordered a switch yesterday so hopefully, it resolves the issue.
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,977
3,072
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
You have the correct schematic. The diode CR3 is not on S5. It's mounted on the component panel in the far back left.

Guy had 802/803 on the brain when he posted his S5 wiring pic.

Component panel...
Screenshot_20230305_221053_Samsung Notes.jpg
 
Last edited:

Alamo Water Service

New member
12
8
3
Location
San Antonio
Have you ever seen this genset work correctly?
Not yet...When I got it the genset it didn't run. After cleaning the tank, a couple of new hoses, and installing a new pump with an injector block cleaning it runs great now. I then proceeded with testing the generator. It runs with no faults and has 120/208 readings on gauges and one side of the contacts. I have readings before the output terminals, just not at the output terminals. I pushed the interrupter button and it lit up. When I close the interrupter switch nothing happens (contacts don't engage). I pulled the contacts and it tested good (contacts pull in with 24v and have .3 ohms across the contacts). I then proceeded with the interrupter switch testing. Pulled it and tested per TM and got bad readings. Apologize for the long story lol.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,910
22,192
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Not yet...When I got it the genset it didn't run. After cleaning the tank, a couple of new hoses, and installing a new pump with an injector block cleaning it runs great now. I then proceeded with testing the generator. It runs with no faults and has 120/208 readings on gauges and one side of the contacts. I have readings before the output terminals, just not at the output terminals. I pushed the interrupter button and it lit up.
What do you by mean, "I pushed the interrupter button and it lit up" Do you mean you pushed the DS-7, (AC interrupter light?) and the press to test function lit the light up?

When I close the interrupter switch nothing happens (contacts don't engage). I pulled the contacts and it tested good (contacts pull in with 24v and have .3 ohms across the contacts). I then proceeded with the interrupter switch testing. Pulled it and tested per TM and got bad readings. Apologize for the long story lol.
Long stories are better. More info.
 

Alamo Water Service

New member
12
8
3
Location
San Antonio
Not yet...When I got it the genset it didn't run. After cleaning the tank, a couple of new hoses, and installing a new pump with an injector block cleaning it runs great now. I then proceeded with testing the generator. It runs with no faults and has 120/208 readings on gauges and one side of the contacts. I have readings before the output terminals, just not at the output terminals. I pushed the interrupter button and it lit up.
What do you by mean, "I pushed the interrupter button and it lit up" Do you mean you pushed the DS-7, (AC interrupter light?) and the press to test function lit the light up?

When I close the interrupter switch nothing happens (contacts don't engage). I pulled the contacts and it tested good (contacts pull in with 24v and have .3 ohms across the contacts). I then proceeded with the interrupter switch testing. Pulled it and tested per TM and got bad readings. Apologize for the long story lol.
Long stories are better. More info.
That's what it's called. The test function light. I had pushed that in and it did light up.
 

Alamo Water Service

New member
12
8
3
Location
San Antonio
That's what it's called. The test function light. I had pushed that in and it did light up.
So just to update, I changed the S5 interrupter switch and now I have voltage at the output terminals. Green light on. thank god, didn't really want to start cutting zip-ties to trace wires in that wire forest lol. The last question I have is how long do you typically have to hold the start switch during start-up for the interrupter switch to engage? Thanks for the support
 

Alamo Water Service

New member
12
8
3
Location
San Antonio
All sets differ a bit. I held up the S1 until the volts and hertz came up to rated level.

Why would you have had to cut wire ties and trace wires? The schematics are all you need to trace wire.
Just a little exaggeration. I like to verify wiring from point A to point B. Never know if someone was in their landing wires to the wrong terminals. I would however start with the P&ID and meter.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks