816 Jakes and Turbo !!!!

[wcuhillbilly]

Yes. That should fix it. Report back

Ok,,, Will do,,, and I will report back, as I am striving to keep this thread as complete from start to finish as possible, So as to help the next guy who comes along wondering if X + Y will = ????? ....

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Ok,,,, put 2 more spacer washers in for a total of 3 which is the same configuration as my spare/scrap 350 pump. I also tightened the ratcheting adjustment screw in the rear of the button holder plunger( 3 sided slide weight the button resides in). This brought that set screw into the same spec as the donor 350 pump, and helped bump the button forward about as much as another shim.
Fired it up and after some warm up im now taching out around 1950rpm with a decent bounce hittin 2000. So by adding 2 shims i gained roughly 100-150 rpm...... i only have one shim left and i need to get back to a constant 2200-2300rpm like it was pre-shenanagans

 

[red]

What is your rail pressure at?

 

[350TacoZilla]

Thats the question I have had about the dual line mod, if it splits the flow evenly I wonder if the pressure drops and thats why you need more shimming to get your rpm back. In theory if 2 gave you 100-150 RPM ( I dont think you meant 1000-1500) you would need what 3 more for a total of 6? I'm wondering if there was another difference between those pumps/buttons

 

[red]

Thats the question I have had about the dual line mod, if it splits the flow evenly I wonder if the pressure drops and thats why you need more shimming to get your rpm back. In theory if 2 gave you 100-150 RPM ( I dont think you meant 1000-1500) you would need what 3 more for a total of 6? I'm wondering if there was another difference between those pumps/buttons

Good probability that the rail pressure is set lower for the single line pump. Couple tweaks of the fuel screw should bring it up

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Thats the question I have had about the dual line mod, if it splits the flow evenly I wonder if the pressure drops and thats why you need more shimming to get your rpm back. In theory if 2 gave you 100-150 RPM ( I dont think you meant 1000-1500) you would need what 3 more for a total of 6? I'm wondering if there was another difference between those pumps/buttons

True,,(went back and edited it),, posting from my dinosaur phone doesnt work very well,,, and the mobile app is junk for me,,, will cycle for hours trying to post,,, thus I end up loading the full site and fat fingering my way through it......

Good probability that the rail pressure is set lower for the single line pump. Couple tweaks of the fuel screw should bring it up

Fuel screw being the needle valve in the throttle shaft, under the ball plug.?????? Looks like someone has drilled out the ball plug already...

Side note,,, dropped one of the shims in the old donor pump when I put everything back together for storage (just so in 6 months when I needed something I could remove it in order instead of the usuall goob pile saying what the.....)
To get that shim back for use yesterday I had to seperate the rear section of the pump,,,, these things are dirt simple,,,, just knowing what adjustments to make is the key...

 

[red]

Yep the screw thats in the throttle shaft, turn counter clockwise to raise the pressure. Shouldn't take much (1/8th to 1/4 turn adjustments at a time) unless your pump is getting worn out.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Thanks Red,,, Ill test that tonite or tomarrow, (got to go put a 200yd zero on the 308 tonite)

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Ok,,, so last nite I turned the screw counter about a 1/4 turn and had no change in RPM. BTW I now have a small seep of fuel coming out of the throttle shaft now..... So I installed the last of my shims, 4 total now. and turned the screw a total of 1 turn counter....... Somewhere along the line I lost prime in the pump and spent the next hour winding and checking the filter housing, along with scratching my head and ars as this thing has never been this hard to start before,,,, I had come to the conclusion that the 24v solenoid had gave up untill I recruited Soldier B (wife) to turn the truck over while I loosened the lines on the head. Got some fuel, but not any real pressure, I will have to check again now that its running on its own.
Side note, by adjusting the ratcheting screw in the rear of the 3 sided barrel assembly that the fuel button and shims reside in, This screw only controls the idle speed,,,, after I turned it in the other day I was idleing at 800rpm... thus I turned it down (Counter) last nite to idle at about 600 RPM... a little high, but my hand throttle on the dash is useless till click 5 and then the engine starts to climb un controlably untill about 1600RPM.. been this way since I got it.

 

[red]

Now that it's primed again, any difference with max rpm?


The 816 i'm buying has the same issue with the hand throttle. Jumps to 1400rpm when the engine is cold. Don't know about warmed up because it can't be driven yet (needs wheel ends serviced and dog bones)

 

[wcuhillbilly]

No change in rpm. Had a job with dozer/backhoe today, had to haul it 60miles round trip. Thank goodness for jakes, throttle stuck going down a hill, figured it out half way down and pulled pedal back up with boot. Hit the upgrade and had no throttle till the last 1/4 of pedal travel. Weighing 60,000 gross i just worked it to top of the grade and pulled over to check. The little coil spring on the throttle lever decided to abandone ship. This spring keeps tension on the two peice shaft and alows the two levers to flex when pedal travel reached more than throttle travel allows. Being 400rpm short is d#$%& frustrating. This combo already chuggs the hills at 10-15mph. Now im at 8-10 and bouncing off the rev limiter/govener. Bout worthless. Wishing for a trans or driveline swap.........

 

[wcuhillbilly]

No change,,, waiting on parts from Summit,,, Old mechanic told me to try swapping out my 6AN dual fuel lines for some 4An, thus between what I had laying around and an order to summit,,, I will hopefully have all the peices by the end of the week,,,,, test run #,,,,,,,, ah,,, I've lost count now...

 

[red]

I'm curious what your rail pressure is.

Also how long ago did you replace the fuel filters? Were they really dirty?

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Dont know what the rail pressure is, I really have no way to test it as all my fuel pressure test gauges only go up to 30psi,,, I guess I could take the old Flame heater gauge and plumb it in,,,,, Time,,,, if only I had more time...... When I had trouble with it restarting after the last button shim, I pulled the fuel filter and all was good,,, running the stock filter/housing, but I should have enough parts after this order from Summit to swap out the line from the Driver side tank and replace the housing with a spin on from Cummins... the FS1212 filter/seperator is what I run on all my other diesels with either 6AN or 8An line... Thinking of taking the 6AN line THat Im replaceing with 8AN line on my Sig truck with the 24v Cummins and using that line with a couple adapter fittings in place of the stock/parker grafted stuff on the 816. Laundry list of crap to get done before Im leaving for family visit in 4 weeks,,, thus I dont know if the 816 will make it too high on the list. State is also on my back about a "Wrecker inspection" but that aint gonna happen till after the first of the year also... DOT compliance requires additional lights, Just alot of time and some $ to put it all together,,, and I am really short on Time. With it acting up like it is,,, its really a back burner project for now... (BTW I did get the Holmes 750 Medium duty tow bar in,,, its sitting in the wings for instalation soon)....

 

[red]

Saw in another thread that your having a hard time starting it when the temp is under 60F.

If the fuel line pressure is too low then it would explain both issues.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Saw in another thread that your having a hard time starting it when the temp is under 60F.

If the fuel line pressure is too low then it would explain both issues.

Yeah, the hard start started with the dual fuel mod, thus Im gonna try the smaller line and see what happens. Hate to have to pull the PT pump have it rebuilt. major $$$$ there.... Simple enough critter I should be ablt to do it myself but the knowing how is 3/4 of the equation. I may look into tapping the line at exit of the PT pump and plumbing that into the old pressure gauge for the deleted flame heater, this would give me the span of gauge 0-120 for a decent idea of the rail pressure.
Time and money,,,,,, I have a long list of crap to get done before pulling out for a east coast run in 3 weeks plus my regular day job.. Thankfully no real cold temps and snow yet... but that may change any day now....

 

[wcuhillbilly]

had a job to pull the other morning with the wrecker. Played hob getting it to start at 17*F. had to finally pull the air cleaner and puff the snort down the pipe... Roared to life...
I did get around to reducing the line size on the dual fuel the other day, from 6AN (3/8 ) down to 4AN (1/4) like a stock Small cam 350^
No change,,, still taching out at 1750rpm, and I did figure I have the fuel screw up too high, as it was dribbling black smoke everywhere I went like it was still Natrurally asperated.



Little taste of what we were doing,,, Moving another building... 12'x24' storage building... Used the wrecker to winch it on the lowboy, after using the crane to bring the lowboy closer and into position . Rear drag winch makes easy work of these small building moves.... Note to Wrecker owners. When replacing the clutch can actuator,,, get an SC09 Type 9 can that has only one bolt style clamp,, the two bolt clamp wont fit in the mounting bracket on the side of the trans..... May look into fabbing a bracket for the driver side that will work off the existing clutch linkage instead of that tortoruous hole on the passenger side of the trans bellhousing.

 

[red]

Same with mine yesterday. Took a few puffs to get it fired up in the morning. I tried using the primer handle and pre heater but no luck till the ether was used.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

with this tach problem,, and the general lack of power I am at a loss to figure out where to go from here,,,, I can try and have the pump rebuilt,,, but the old school pump guys are likely sitting in the geriatric ward downtown now.... For test purposes,,, I will likely plug the rear line and test it to see if the RPM majically comes back,,, this would most certainly explain low line pressure..... I have heard about a filter in the top portion of the pump.. need to figure out how to remove and clean that...

Trucker friend of mine in the pics, offered me a 3406A model Cat out of an old 77 KW logging truck the other day,,, its getting more and more tempting. especially if I can shooehorn a 9 or 10 speed in there...

Either way,,, Im gone for a couple weeks to see some family back in Carolina, thus the 816 will have to sit untill after the first of the year.....

 

[red]

Considering that you haul often with the truck, the 3406a would be a great upgrade.