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84 1008 build.

linemech31

Active member
90
107
33
Location
New Hampshire
Why the grease?
Its for corrosion protection. Salt gets between the frame and bed support. It eats everything up here in N.H
I have had good results with oil spraying my vehicles to avoid the rust. The trade off is the mess you have to deal with anytime you work on the underside of the vehicle.
 

Matt S

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
142
35
28
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Its for corrosion protection. Salt gets between the frame and bed support. It eats everything up here in N.H
I have had good results with oil spraying my vehicles to avoid the rust. The trade off is the mess you have to deal with anytime you work on the underside of the vehicle.
Got it. I was thinking you used a grease gun and couldn't figureout why.
 

dougco1

Well-known member
817
544
93
Location
Cooperstown NY
Got it. I was thinking you used a grease gun and couldn't figureout why.
I think the best thing would be to "NOT" run it in the winter salt. But if you need to you should get it oiled by a Krown dealer. I did both my CUCVs and I am very happy. The oil spray will migrate into areas as time goes on and is actually great for all your electrical connections. About $150-175.00 for a full spray including inside tailgates, doors, pillars, fenders, and under the hood.
Krown Rust Control
 

linemech31

Active member
90
107
33
Location
New Hampshire
I think the best thing would be to "NOT" run it in the winter salt. But if you need to you should get it oiled by a Krown dealer. I did both my CUCVs and I am very happy. The oil spray will migrate into areas as time goes on and is actually great for all your electrical connections. About $150-175.00 for a full spray including inside tailgates, doors, pillars, fenders, and under the hood.
Krown Rust Control
Its about 160$ at heaths auto body in loudon nh. I have done oil spraying to all my junk since my grandfather advised me to do so. Ill avoid driving in the salt when possible but it is inevitable here. I dont want to spray the new to me 1008 until i have time to paint the body for obvious reasons.
 

linemech31

Active member
90
107
33
Location
New Hampshire
Took 4 test rides to get that transmission modulator tuned for a shift i liked, tuning to the vacuum gauge is a ballpark imo... Wouldn't mind a different governor spring for the 2-3 shift but overall its good. Ill tune it further when i upgrade the powerplant. This thing tracks the road better than my newish ram 2500.
 

Attachments

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
574
654
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
I dont have a ground on the connector wire that plugs into the indicator which i believe should be on the black/white wire. The orange shows 28vdc when i use a chassis ground to test. I was wondering where the black/white wire heads off to?
It heads off to a buss bar ground somewhere under the dash just after it is spliced in with 5 other ground wires. I think there is a grounding point near the fuseblock but I don't know if that is where it connects.

TM9-2330-289-34 page E6, figure E4 (pdf page 949/1024)
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,263
9,552
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Since the voltmeter only works when the key is on. Could it be grounded thru a relay that provides ground only when the switch is on. I am poor at electrical but I eventually figure it out. But if I recall that hot wire to the voltmeter is always hot. That's why it sparks when you have the cluster out and the stud touches ground. be careful. Good Luck.
 

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
574
654
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
Since the voltmeter only works when the key is on. Could it be grounded thru a relay that provides ground only when the switch is on. I am poor at electrical but I eventually figure it out. But if I recall that hot wire to the voltmeter is always hot. That's why it sparks when you have the cluster out and the stud touches ground. be careful. Good Luck.
Damn. Your right. Not sure how I missed that but I did.

It is wired through a relay.
 
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