• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

A/C on the CUCV

panzerwillie

Active member
952
104
43
Location
miami florida
Ok so we know i being working on a M1010 wich is schedule to make the ALCAN HWY convoy , finaly got the A/C working here is a rundown on parts and cost..
A/C compressor new $200
Condenser and Hoses $180
A/C unit and dryer $150]
Relay and plug for Compressor $10
Cab hoses and vaccum charge with labor $260
so total $800
Some of the cost would be less using some use parts or rebuild but everything in this truck is new , also being a seperting set up made it easy the engine had all the brackets already, it cools great especialy here in hot miami here are some pictures
ac1 013.jpg

ac1 014.jpg

ac1 018.jpg

ac1 019.jpg

ac1 020.jpg

ac1 021.jpg
 

stranger75

Member
91
0
6
Location
Nashville, TN
I just found this thread. Panzerwillie, would you be willing to share some part numbers, brand names, model names and website info for where you got all your A/C equipment? Particularly the in-cab A/C unit, the condenser, and the compressor. I am brainstorming about A/C in my M1009 and am trying to put together a parts and price list. I like the control/ vent unit you have.
 

forest522

Member
308
4
18
Location
Bernalillo, New Mexico
Wow, very clean set up and install! That engine set up is the dream of many! More engine photos please! Is the compressor on the driver or passenger side, looks like the passenger side...

The last 6.2 I saw on a 84 Suburban in a parts yard had the compressor on the drivers side and the alternator on the passenger side.

Well done! My hood is closed in shame!!!
 

panzerwillie

Active member
952
104
43
Location
miami florida
ac

Its hard to list part numbers is a basic HMMWV redstone a/c for the softtop however the turtle back type is the same exept for the last few years, i got it from a fellow here i belive a tankerdad back 2 or 3 years ago but i see then here from time to time on classified and they are also on ebay, it comes with everything you need to mount compressor on passanger side with a vbelt type set up however you either got to go 12 volt or 1 24v alternator on your driverside and a stepdown to 12v for all your cucv 12v needs, i used the compressor it came with and adapted it to the M1010 a/c brackets however you could use the regular m1010 compressor which is nothing but a standar GM big compressor , i also use a universal condensor infront of radiator, the best way i think is get brackets from a old 6.2 a/c set up mount 1 24v alt on pass side set down to 12 volt and get a hotrod under the dash unit for the cab , you can look for may M1010 thread and see the inside unit, hope this answer some of your questions:)
20121023_075313.jpg

20121023_075327.jpg

2012-07-23 15.26.55.jpg
 

GREENMV

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
325
5
0
Location
Linden, TN
I met you a couple weeks ago at Tower Shops. Glad to see you got It done, looks great. You have a nice M1009. Did you ever check out that hood?
 

shorad93

New member
19
22
3
Location
Pembroke Pines, FL
Panzerville, after our meeting last week at Tower Shops, I purchased the 24 Volt Alternator, but still looking for the 24v - 12v step down converter. How many amps did you recommend I should get for the step down? This will be the last step for me for the harware transplant from a civy K5 Blazer to my M1009. Hopefully I'll see you this Friday so we can discuss the relay wiring for the step down. If all goes smooth from here, I should have a functional A/C system in my CUCV soon and will start collecting parts to do the same for my M1031.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,315
113
Location
Schertz TX
You will need at least 30 amperes to run the stock 12 volt system. Consider headlights at 5 amps each, blower motor at 10 amps and 1 amp for all marker/running lights. Then the dash lights, horn and wipers.

I would recommend a small 8 to 10 amp hour sealed lead acid battery to assure you won't overload the converter. This would be parallel to the converter, a 40 amp relay triggered by key on ignition should be used to isolate the converter to prevent draw when the engine is off.
 

saddamsnightmare

Well-known member
3,618
80
48
Location
Abilene, Texas
October 24th, 2012.

Interesting! The CUCV Ambulances that were being sold new by GM in 2007 had the AC and a CD player in them with AM-FM Radio, pretty rare as stock for a new military truck I would guess. You could probably use those numbers for your parts.....:beer:
 

shorad93

New member
19
22
3
Location
Pembroke Pines, FL
Hey Panzerville, sorry I missed you at Tower Shops. I had to move from one home to another. I picked up the 24V alternator you recommended but am not sure about the 24 v to 12v converter necessary to make room for the A/C compressor. I've looked at several internet sites but not exactly sure what I should get. I''ve been looking for something with high amp output (50 - 80 amps) but no luck so far. Do you have a recommendation or source?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks