A few changes and a question about repurposing

kennys@wi.rr.com

Active member
1,467
7
38
Location
Waukesha, WI
Today has been a busy day on my deuce. I am replacing all the old 1/2" copper air lines with new plastic lines. Mainly because I have a hole in one of my air tanks again and I remember last time it took forever to get the one copper line back on because it had moved ever so slightly. I decided then and there that if I was ever to do this again I was going to replace them with the nice flexible plastic stuff. So far it works great. I only needed a few feet of it so I got it from the local Pete dealer along with all the ends. Everything fits the old tanks and the compressor just fine.

Then I decided to go ahead and put a valve of some kind in the drain plug for the oil canisters. I tried to find a valve that wouldn't stick out too far but no go. Then I looked up a Fumoto valve like I have on my Ford oil pan, not going to pay $26 for a valve. Then I had a brainstorm. I got a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer and put in a quick connect. I built an oil cart last year that uses all quick connects for the different oils so now all I have to do is plug a hose into the coupler and I can drain the oil filter cans. No more mess. I have pictures of that so some of you can tell me why I'm crazy for even thinking that will ever work or hold up.

Now for my question on repurposing. I worked on a lot of trucks last year and converted a few of them over to spin on filters. Now I have a primary filter housing left sitting around the shop and I got to thinking. If I mount this under the truck and route my air line from the compressor to it then to the air tanks, is there any chance that will act as an air dryer? Or should I route it between the tanks and the air pack? I had an air system dryer/oiler around here somewhere I wanted to use between the tanks and air pack but I just can't find it anywhere. Well any thoughts on that would be much appreciated.
 

Attachments

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
2,971
93
48
Location
eldersburg maryland
in order to remove water from the air you have to lower the temp so the water will condense out.. the best bet for dry air is a cyclic drier from any modern truck air system. they are automatic and you will never have water in your tanks again.
tom
 

Attachments

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
27,697
277
83
Location
Cincy Ohio
Watch that quick connect so the oil does not ruin the O-ring. You could lose some/all your oil like that. I bet that has a plain rubber O-ring in it. Also, I'm not sure what temps the plastic line is rated for, but I know the copper lines get hot on my truck. Keep an eye on that too.
 
Last edited:

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,234
923
113
Location
NY
The air chuck will leak, garanteed.

They all do.

I would not trust it on the oil system.
 

swbradley1

Modertator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,756
160
63
Location
Dayton, OH
While it sounds like a great idea I agree with DH, it's going to leak and as Gimp says, probably has the wrong type of o-ring in it for oil.

$26 for the valve and maybe a stainless flexline down the side somewhere sounds like it is cheaper than lunching the engine out when you dump the oil while running.
 

Srjeeper

New member
1,506
37
0
Location
NE, Pa.
I put a canister drain valve on my truck also, but I used a small ball valve with a pipe plug in the end as back up and it was very inexpensive to do. Shortly thereafter I went with spin on's and no longer need to use the valve, but watch the quick connect.

The air lines are a pain. Heat was the concern of mine that kept me from going plastic.

Please let us know how it holds up for you.
 

Tow4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,895
134
63
Location
Orlando, FL
I think you will want to have a metal line from the compressor because of the temperature. Plastic is fine everywhere else. Just make sure you use DOT fittings that have the metal sleeve that goes inside the plastic tubing to support it so the ferrule doesn't crush the plastic when it is tightened.
 

Bcurtman

New member
119
1
0
Location
Rosebud, Mo
I ran plastic on most of the air lines on my deuce when I bobbed it. I did leave the line from the compressor as copper as it does seem to get pretty warm. I used all "push connect" fittings on mine with DOT Nylon tubing. No leaks, easy in, easy out. I recommend it! Mine came from McMaster Carr. Order today, here tomorrow.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

Active member
1,467
7
38
Location
Waukesha, WI
Well I finished the install of my new 1/2" plastic lines and all seems well so far, except for my air tank still leaks so I will have to replace it. I was able to find my air dryer/oiler and I have that plumbed into the air system before the air pack. I did run the truck for a bit and the line off the compressor got warm but nothing that I am too worried about. Once I have the new air tank on I will run the truck for a bit longer and take it for a run around the block to see how that line holds up. If it gets too hot for my liking I will just put in a section of copper and shorten the plastic line. I did also find another line leaking. This time it's one of the small lines that goes to the govenor on the firewall. Guess I have no choice but to replace those too now. Bummer :beer:.
Now that I loaded the pictures I remembered that there would be questions of why I had a regulator in the middle of the dryer and oiler. The answer is simple, that's the part that holds the mount. If I can figure out another way of mounting it I will and will repost about it.
 

Attachments

Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks