Poccur
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Obviously, caveat emptor in any auction but I wanted to see if I could come up with a couple things to watch out for when choosing to bid on an HDT or PowerSystems trailer mounted generator/ECU combo...this is all unofficial...just one generator addict trying to help others..
A complete ‘PowerSystems /HDT GET’ system usually consists of the generator on a trailer with an air conditioner.
Full pack out includes:
1. The 25ft ducts to get the air conditioned air into the shelter (2 x 12” diameter and 1 x 18”)
2. A 60amp, 3-phase, 5wire, power cord to get power into the shelter distribution box.
3. A distribution box to break the 60 amp, 3-phase power into 3 x 120V, 20amp, GFIs for use inside the shelter
4. A grounding wire to attach the trailer to the ground rod
5. A ground rod set
6. Auxiliary fuel lines to allow the trailer to run from a larger fuel supply than its normal 55 gallon internal tank.
7. Small fire extinguisher hung on a bracket between the generator and the air conditioner.
If you cannot see the parts listed above in the pictures expect them to be missing.
When looking at the auction pictures there are a few other things you might like to consider.
Wheels – Most PowerSystems /HDT GETs have the split rim and military tire of the HMMWV. It is worth noting that many times the run-flat donut was not put in as the customer said they did not need it.
Doors and Panels for the Enclosures – Missing doors can impact repair costs on other components. It is not as bad if the door is missing on the engine bay as everything inside is mostly weatherproof, but if it is the door for the main electrical panel or, especially, the door for the electrical panel on the air conditioner, then there are some components that do not do well if exposed to the elements. If any doors are missing it can add to your repair costs.
All metal panels and doors are custom bent for the units so you can only get spares from the manufacturer or fabricate your own from scratch.
Hour meter – it is not very often that the hour meters are disconnected so they are generally trustworthy. The units leave the factory with a 2 hour ‘burn-in at 100%’ load test so single digit usage on the hour meter is generally an engine that is barely used.
Oil – the units leave the factory with break-in oil in the sump. The idea is that the customer will run the first 100 hours on break-in oil then change to the regular 15W-40, changing it every 250 hours thereafter.
The dip stick tube has a ‘break-in’ oil paper-tag on it when it leaves the factory and the customer is supposed to remove it at the first oil change.
If the hour meter is low and the ‘break-in’ tag is still visible in pictures that is great, but if the hour meter shows thousands of hours and you can still see the 100 hour break-in oil tag, it is possible it has never had an oil change (yes, it happens!!).
They may have changed the oil faithfully but just have forgotten to pull off the 100 hour tag but you never know. We had a unit in Afghanistan that ran so long without an oil change that when they finally got around to doing it, they had to hook the last of the oil out of the unit using a piece of welding rod to snag it.
Trailer Lights – Don’t forget to try and see if the 12 pin trailer lights connector is visible at the front of the unit, sometimes they are missing. You can make an adapter to run the military lights on your vehicle system but the cheapest way is to buy the adapter cable from Erik’s military surplus:
http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/mitradcamtro.html
As an FYI, except for very early units (pre 2004 or so), the 24v trailer lights were LED so they still function normally when attached to a 12v vehicle.
Electrical Output Panel – Look closely at the electrical panel for missing breakers or switches. Smaller breakers are easily sourced (Square D, Merlin Gerin), the large main breaker is expensive as are the blue temperature controllers for the air conditioner and only available from a few sources.
Gauges – All gauges are commercially available if missing.
Electrical Internal Panel – Look closely for any missing components (governor controller, voltage regulator etc.). They are usually held in place by aluminum rivet-nuts. If you see empty areas in the wiring loom and then holes for mounting bolts you might want to check carefully what is missing. Some modules are pricey but they can all be found online if needed, none are proprietary.
Exhaust Blanket – The exhaust in the engine bay is normally wrapped in an exhaust blanket that makes the engine bay a little cooler and cuts down on engine noise. If the silver blanket is missing it can be purchased from HDT, if you are looking for lower cost options it might be hard to find an alternative source as they are made to exact dimensions for HDT but there are companies that you can work with for an approximation.
The unit functions fine without the blanket, it just runs a little hotter in the bay and louder.
ECU – Look closely at the air conditioner. On occasion, the fans are removed, motors are removed and electrical components are removed. All of these are available commercially but they are all pricey parts.
As with the generator, all metal panels and doors are custom bent for the units so you can only get spares from the manufacturer or fabricate your own from scratch.
Engine Type – Be sure of what you are bidding on. If it has a yellow engine then it is likely the John Deere 3029T engine which is a 35kW. If the engine is black/grey then it is likely the Lister Petter LPWT4 engine which is a 20kW. Lister parts are a lot harder to get and generally come from the UK.
If you cannot see the engine color of a PowerSystems / HDT system, look at the enclosure height. If the generator enclosure is the same height as the ECU it is usually a 20kW. If the generator is taller than the air conditioner then it will be the 35kW.
Descriptions – Recently the auctions seem to describe anything on a trailer with an ECU as a ‘DRASH or HDT’ unit. Although most of them are similar there are real differences. Pay attention to the data plates you can see in the pictures.
PSI, HDT, PowerSystems, Hauppauge NY, Natural Bridge VA - These are the HDT units.
Hope this is of use,
Cheers
Poccur
A complete ‘PowerSystems /HDT GET’ system usually consists of the generator on a trailer with an air conditioner.
Full pack out includes:
1. The 25ft ducts to get the air conditioned air into the shelter (2 x 12” diameter and 1 x 18”)
2. A 60amp, 3-phase, 5wire, power cord to get power into the shelter distribution box.
3. A distribution box to break the 60 amp, 3-phase power into 3 x 120V, 20amp, GFIs for use inside the shelter
4. A grounding wire to attach the trailer to the ground rod
5. A ground rod set
6. Auxiliary fuel lines to allow the trailer to run from a larger fuel supply than its normal 55 gallon internal tank.
7. Small fire extinguisher hung on a bracket between the generator and the air conditioner.
If you cannot see the parts listed above in the pictures expect them to be missing.
When looking at the auction pictures there are a few other things you might like to consider.
Wheels – Most PowerSystems /HDT GETs have the split rim and military tire of the HMMWV. It is worth noting that many times the run-flat donut was not put in as the customer said they did not need it.
Doors and Panels for the Enclosures – Missing doors can impact repair costs on other components. It is not as bad if the door is missing on the engine bay as everything inside is mostly weatherproof, but if it is the door for the main electrical panel or, especially, the door for the electrical panel on the air conditioner, then there are some components that do not do well if exposed to the elements. If any doors are missing it can add to your repair costs.
All metal panels and doors are custom bent for the units so you can only get spares from the manufacturer or fabricate your own from scratch.
Hour meter – it is not very often that the hour meters are disconnected so they are generally trustworthy. The units leave the factory with a 2 hour ‘burn-in at 100%’ load test so single digit usage on the hour meter is generally an engine that is barely used.
Oil – the units leave the factory with break-in oil in the sump. The idea is that the customer will run the first 100 hours on break-in oil then change to the regular 15W-40, changing it every 250 hours thereafter.
The dip stick tube has a ‘break-in’ oil paper-tag on it when it leaves the factory and the customer is supposed to remove it at the first oil change.
If the hour meter is low and the ‘break-in’ tag is still visible in pictures that is great, but if the hour meter shows thousands of hours and you can still see the 100 hour break-in oil tag, it is possible it has never had an oil change (yes, it happens!!).
They may have changed the oil faithfully but just have forgotten to pull off the 100 hour tag but you never know. We had a unit in Afghanistan that ran so long without an oil change that when they finally got around to doing it, they had to hook the last of the oil out of the unit using a piece of welding rod to snag it.
Trailer Lights – Don’t forget to try and see if the 12 pin trailer lights connector is visible at the front of the unit, sometimes they are missing. You can make an adapter to run the military lights on your vehicle system but the cheapest way is to buy the adapter cable from Erik’s military surplus:
http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/mitradcamtro.html
As an FYI, except for very early units (pre 2004 or so), the 24v trailer lights were LED so they still function normally when attached to a 12v vehicle.
Electrical Output Panel – Look closely at the electrical panel for missing breakers or switches. Smaller breakers are easily sourced (Square D, Merlin Gerin), the large main breaker is expensive as are the blue temperature controllers for the air conditioner and only available from a few sources.
Gauges – All gauges are commercially available if missing.
Electrical Internal Panel – Look closely for any missing components (governor controller, voltage regulator etc.). They are usually held in place by aluminum rivet-nuts. If you see empty areas in the wiring loom and then holes for mounting bolts you might want to check carefully what is missing. Some modules are pricey but they can all be found online if needed, none are proprietary.
Exhaust Blanket – The exhaust in the engine bay is normally wrapped in an exhaust blanket that makes the engine bay a little cooler and cuts down on engine noise. If the silver blanket is missing it can be purchased from HDT, if you are looking for lower cost options it might be hard to find an alternative source as they are made to exact dimensions for HDT but there are companies that you can work with for an approximation.
The unit functions fine without the blanket, it just runs a little hotter in the bay and louder.
ECU – Look closely at the air conditioner. On occasion, the fans are removed, motors are removed and electrical components are removed. All of these are available commercially but they are all pricey parts.
As with the generator, all metal panels and doors are custom bent for the units so you can only get spares from the manufacturer or fabricate your own from scratch.
Engine Type – Be sure of what you are bidding on. If it has a yellow engine then it is likely the John Deere 3029T engine which is a 35kW. If the engine is black/grey then it is likely the Lister Petter LPWT4 engine which is a 20kW. Lister parts are a lot harder to get and generally come from the UK.
If you cannot see the engine color of a PowerSystems / HDT system, look at the enclosure height. If the generator enclosure is the same height as the ECU it is usually a 20kW. If the generator is taller than the air conditioner then it will be the 35kW.
Descriptions – Recently the auctions seem to describe anything on a trailer with an ECU as a ‘DRASH or HDT’ unit. Although most of them are similar there are real differences. Pay attention to the data plates you can see in the pictures.
PSI, HDT, PowerSystems, Hauppauge NY, Natural Bridge VA - These are the HDT units.
Hope this is of use,
Cheers
Poccur
