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AC generator plus inverter to start deuce

da-beast

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I have had my deuce for about a year and have had nothing but problems with the electrical system. I have finally been told that there is a design flaw in all the alternators ever built and it grounds out in a few days? Whatever. At this point I am sick of buying batteries and battery chargers that then die on me (grrr pepboys) So now my collection of dead batteries has reached a point that I am thinking of other options. I should mention I have come up with this idea because I am in an apartment and dont have outside AC lines to do the normal battery charger truck start thing.
I want to get a small ac generator with a 24 volt inverter that will start the truck. Store it in the battery compartment or something. But I have no idea of the requirements I would need. Someone want to give me an idea of where to start before I start trying to read manuals and pulling my hair out. I am deff not great with this whole electrical terminology thing. Will any AC generator work or will I need a certain wattage? Is the inverter more important or anything that will do 24V good enough? Or do I get the AC generator and use a massive battery charger that would start the truck? Ideas...?
 

mangus580

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Umm... How long does your deuce sit? Mine can sit for months (1-2) and starts just fine. I think you would be better off finding your problem.

But... in answer to your question.... Why not find one of the military 'super jumper' 24v generators? They made them in 1.5kw and 3kw (maybe 5 but cant recall).
 

da-beast

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The batteries in mine will drain to nothing overnight with everything turned off. I have been disconnecting them every time I use the truck in a last attempt. I am trying to do this on the cheap right now as this is a very side project. Hey anyone in the philly area thats any good with electrical systems? When I got the truck it was not charging the batteries and I thought ok old batteries and crappy alternator. So that was the second set of batts and a brand new alternator. When it happened again I thought it was because I had left something on and went out to buy a trickle charger. Which proceeded to crap out on me and cook the acid out of the batteries even though it was supposed to monitor the charge and turn off. This lead to batteries 5 and 6 which are now dead because some kid thought it would be cute to play with my truck and hook up the batteries. I am putting a lock on that compartment today. So now they are dead again and I am truly sick of dealing with the batteries. Guess I am off to look for a super jumper?
 

mangus580

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You could also buy one of them locking battery switches....

Just a crazy thought, but are you making sure you put the 3 lever switch in the OFF position? and not leaving it in 'stop light'?

Electrical systems of the deuce is pretty simple, shouldnt be too hard to find your draw. Do you have the 60 amp alternator or the 25 amp Generator?
 

da-beast

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Yeah the lever is deff all the way to the left and off. Plus I check out the truck before I park it and make sure everything is cool.
I have the 60 amp alternator. I took it to easternsurplus in NE philly and they were the ones that told me about this design flaw in the alternators. I haven't put much time into tracking down the problem yet if it is not this.
 

rizzo

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Re: RE: AC generator plus inverter to start deuce

da-beast said:
Yeah the lever is left all the way to the left and off.
all the way to the left means the blackouts are on. it should be straight up
 

devilman96

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Design flaw in the alternators?? If that be the case we would all be yanking them and changing them for something else. Your asking for a tank to take on a afternoon squirrel hunt. Even if there was a "flaw" in the alternators there are tons of different ones that would / could fit the truck but thats not going to fix your issues..

Every truck is different but surplus trucks usually have workable wiring harnesses. There is something in the truck causing the failures your experiencing and its not poor charging design. Yes they can be patched and pieced by those whom know what is going on but sense your saying that electrical is a issue for you changing the harness would proably save you some trouble now and later... Sometime the parting and piecing by the wrong person causes these flaws so take that into consideration too.

By the sound of things I would say someone has crossed or connected the trigger wire to the alternator and managed to hook it up so that its powered even when the switch is off... or is powered in off, but unpowered when on... Ether way its a pretty straight forward problem to solve. (there are few things I can think of that would cause both dead batteries AND a failed alternator at the same time) This would kill the batteries over night and could as well cook the voltage regulator as there is no cooling when it is left sitting idle and connected. (Eastern SHOULD HAVE been bright enough to explane this if you gave them the same info)...

The right path to take on this venture would be to get your truck to someone that knows what they are hacking on... A good "general equipment" mechanic with electrical experience and a wiring diagram would be a safe bet. Being that you are not comfortable with electrical I would have the harness changed (Memphis Equipment $170) to save yourself some future misery, get the alternator repaired at a reputable shop (around $220) and get a set of the right batteries for it... The above is going to cost you far less than what you are thinking of doing and will be trouble free for a long time...
 

G744

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Agreed. Find the point of drain. My trucks sit for up to 2 months and start instantly. Also, I have never had a milspec alternator go South electrically (only a bearing failure). There is something you need to fix, not keep replacing.

Use two Optima batteries in the end. They will go for about 7 years in service.

dg
 

doghead

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One of my deuces has a .25 amp draw when everything is off. I found the trouble to be the alternator. The local starter / alt. shop said it is probably a burnt out diode from leaving the alt. powered (switch on) without it running (like for a few days).They said it is a common problem with these alternators if you don't turn your switch off. They said it's not hard to fix, just about a half hour labor and a $2 part. I have not fixed it yet. It still charges fine. I have a battery disconnect and use it every time. Btw, mine will drain the batteries in about 2 weeks. good luck
 

rmgill

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A battery disconnect on these things is the way to go. My ferret and Deuce both have them and it makes things easier.
 

doghead

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:ditto: Since I installed the battery disconnect, I never have that"oh I don't feel like unhooking the battery cable just for this little job" thought anymore. Also, I know most people don't know where to look for it. I put mine on the floor, behind the parking brake. It's easy to opperate from the seat or from the ground,outside the truck.
 

m35a2cowner

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Battery draw

Charge the batteries, disconnect and place a light in series (bottom contacts to post of battery attach one end of wire to side of bulb-24 volt- the other end to cable---leave other cable attached to battery). If there is a draw the light will light. Carefully disconnect one thing at a time until light goes out (start at alternator) when light goes out you have found draw. Be sure to make sure all switches are off. Don't forget to disconnect starter just to be sure. If need also try removing fuses one at a time as well. With a little patience you will find the draw.
 

doghead

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RE: Battery draw

That is exactly how I found my problem! Ain't it funny how you always find the problem the last place you look. I suggest you unhook the battery lead going into the alternator for the first check. Also print the wiring schematic for reference while doing this. Look at the battery + side and read it like a road map. With the test light connected, just follow each wire "road" and unhook one wire at a time (reconnect after each test) until the light goes out.
 

ken

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I had the same problem. But chasing the wiring began to really test my sanity. Since all the wires are black. I bought a new wiring harness from saturn surplus. It cured every electrical problem i had! Everything just plugs in and installing it was a lot easier than you would think. It took a saturday morning but now everything works like it should. But if your looking for a gen. There is a military 28VDC generator that was used to start engines in cold weather or dead batts. But it's big and heavy. About the size of a 5kw generator at the hardware store.
 

houdel

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You definately have a drain someplace. I leave my Deuce parked with the light switch in "Stop Light On" ALL the time, never have had a problem. Maybe a bad alternator diode, maybe something else. Try disconnecting one wire at a time until you find the drain. A VOM is a great help here, disconnect one wire at a time from the positive terminal, find out which line is drawing current, and trace it back until you find the offending source!
 

da-beast

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OK so I went out and got a new battery charger with all the bells and whistles. My collection of batteries is now headed back to the store for replacements. Of the 5 batteries I lugged inside to charge 3 were so far gone they would not take a charge and 2 had internal cells shorting out. The battery charger is electronic and diagnoses the batteries if there is a problem. So I haul battery one to pepboys and apparently did not buy it there as they dont carry that brand. Whatever its 80 bucks for the biggest battery they had that would give 900 CCA. So I come home and hook the new battery up to the last old battery left in the truck and figure ill also jump it with my ford. So I get everything all set to go and nothing. So I rearrange the cables figuring maybe I had a bad connection. I got the buzzer for a few seconds then nothing again. So I thought maybe the old battery is so far gone the resistance is too much. I disconnect the old battery and just hook up to the running truck and new battery. Starts right up! Super now I have 6 dead batteries to deal with, but I got it running and moved which was the goal for now. I am going to trade in the dead ones for some new batts and I guess keep a spare on the truck to boot. I am pretty sure I have a dead solenoid after reading about it more on google. My next question is does anyone have a pic of the solenoid as I could not find it in any of the manuals. What do I replace it with, anything special or do I go to the store and say I need a solenoid for a 24V alternator? Are the all similar or do I need it rated for some power level? Who has done this already? If this does not fix the problem then its time to do as suggested and disconnect everything. I found the wiring diagram so I am set to go as far as that is concerned.
 
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