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Adding A/C to a M35A2

Flatlander

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Not to mention those things are pretty heavy! The steel roof on a Deuce isn't up to the task of holding one unless you reinforced the roof somehow. I put two on a school bus, and they do require 110.
 

wallew

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djfreema,
Most do require 110v, but one or two of the new ones I've read about don't.

DR,
Cutting a hole in the roof is a BIG negative. But if I can buy my deuce, it will have about three or four feet between the cab and the box. I will be mounting two spares, two extra fuel tanks, a lockable tool box, all covered with a massive double roll bar to mount things to. Like antennas, GPS, etc. I was thinking about mounting mine to that and then ducting the air via some form of flexible tubing into where the rear window is. OR NOT. I stole the idea from this guy. Though I would hopefully have a little more room. And I would definately have a heavy duty double roll ball.

Flatlander,
Particularly the older ones. I saw one recently that weighed in at about 25 lbs. and ran on 12 vdc. But that's the exception rather than the rule and it's output was a LOT LESS than any of the 110 units.
 
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Desert Rat

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Very interesting concept W. I got a headache rack from Kenny in FL that will do the same job. I'm looking to get an M34 and heavily modify it much like the pick above with perhaps the exception of moving the rear tandems back some for more stability when I load sand and gravel in the bed. I want the bed to be a tilt bed too but I'll have to wait and see for now.
 

yeager1

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The best way to add air to a deuce is to get a universal AC kit made for hot rods, like the kits Vintage Air or Hot Rod Air makes, they are made to go into vehicles that were never designed to have air. They make many different sizes of pullys to fit any belt and universal mounting plates for the condensors. Also, if you don't already have heat, they make combo heat/defrost/AC units.
Here's 2 examples:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VINT...020026598QQcategoryZ33547QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSII_Pr8_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT
 

devilman96

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I've been working on my AC system for a few weeks now, I started some time after reading the above thread and feel like I have a little more to contribute to it I know this is LONG but I felt it needed to be in order to address some of the issues and special considerations with a Deuce and most other MV's.

Quickly "about me" so you know where I am coming from... I tend to research things to death and poke up and down every avenue in the process before plunking my hard earned cash down on new toys. Being POOR I decided the best route to research everything mentioned and then some... I have 19 combined years in auto, diesel, small and heavy equipment, welding, machine and fab, aircraft, hydraulics, electronics, HAVC, and a few other ventures than don't pertain. I don't know everything but I know a lot about most things and I can screw something up just as bad (if not worse) than the next guy!!!

For all of the function and usefulness to a MV having a AC system was NEVER a considered option on these things... The electrical issues of 12V vs. 24V can be over come by using 24V parts but it does not elevate the cost or frustration of finding them. It is very possible to install a 12V AC system into your truck but I would never consider doing this with a transformer or "inverter". The load requirements of a 12V AC system are up there when added together... Condenser fan - 15amps... Evaporator fan - 20amps... Compressor clutch - 20amps... Servos, relays, etc add a few more; now your feeding a 60 power monger through a 24V "step down" of some type or another on a 60 -80 amp charging system... Doesn't take long to see the problems coming. So you ether install an "add on" 80amp 12V system into your rig or look else where...

With 24V you can more or less cut the amperage numbers down by about 50 - 60% being that the higher the voltage the less the amperage. Now were in the 30amp range which is a lot more manageable on a stock 60-80amp charging system. With this thinking I started mulling over what to do and hit the next wall with vacuum. There are a billion variations to AC but im sticking with the 3 types of basic AC controls in automotive applications there are cable (very old) vacuum (standard and very common) and servo driven (becoming more the standard in today's cars). You can put in a "pod" which is a stand alone system made to go between seats, etc but cab space is at a premium in theses things as is... Diesels have nil for vacuum so you have to axe the most common type AC systems unless you want to install a vacuum pump on your rig. Cable are available and are made in kit form, some can be found in pre 1980s cars and trucks so it is possible to do some salvage work but then your going to get into the R12 / R134 modifications and dilemmas which I will blurb through later. Servos are the best functioning systems but I have to date not located a 24V set up, so its ether 12V or bust on that one.

Other fruit for thought on a AC system...

Climate - Im in Florida... its F' ING HOT here (sorry there is no better way to sum it up!) The system has got to be able to transfer the heat and do so quickly and easily.

Insulation and air leaks - I plan on doing a LOT of insulation, under coating and sealing but I know I can not get everything as well as I would like to so the system is going to have to cope with a certain amount of loss due to vehicle design.

Glass - Great heat transfer, horrible insulator... There is a good bit of glass to a Deuce and being that I added a 18" X 50" rear slider to my hard top Im not helping... Window tint is going to be a must but again the system is going to have to over come vehicle and dumb owner design.

Paint - Lets not forget the dark OD green! Not much for reflection...

Heavy Truck - These things shake like they ought to and are build for on and off road use. Aluminum parts, tubing and compression fittings really have no place on these (or any) heavy truck. O ring (tube or fore seal type) steel fittings should be used when ever possible. 500 PSI burst hose is mandatory on AC however there is nothing wrong with stepping this up with a standard 3000 PSI hydraulic type hosing, the cost diffrence is little if anything at all. (provided your buying or installing with the right people).

R12 / R134 - Yes you can still buy R12 and yes you can convert R12 but the systems were never designed for it. Efficiency suffers GREATLY when you put 134 in a 12 system, in some climates its not so noticeable but in most where having a AC is a serious thought IT WILL BE. 134 is about 20% less efficient in heat transfer so the evaporator has to be larger, the condenser should be designed for it and the correct expansion valve and or orifice tube used. If not 95 degrees outside will get you 82 inside because the gas can not transfer the heat. Don't mistake what I am saying, I've done a lot of conversions and have had great results with them... You just have to work around the issues.

With all of the above buzzing in my head there seems to be a lot of negative but I try to be a realist when it comes to expecting the worst and getting the best out of a situation... I decided even though I am installing a 12V system for power accessories, radios, etc I wanted to keep it small and get the AC on the 24V side, the stock charging system with 60 amps of output does not have a lot using it.... You might as well make the best of it. No pod type AC systems!!! I want a standard looking under dash type install. A/C and heat both are a must for me. When going through all of this head ache and not installing defrost in the process and leaving your self wiping the windows with a rag is feeble minded in my humble opinion. (yes defrost is a very over looked and UNDER mentioned option in aftermarket installs)

The first few calls I made in regards to 24V stuff gave me a mild stroke!!! Im "in the biz" so to speak on heavy equipment and automotive parts but when you mention 24V to 12V guys their eyes get some weird $ sign glaze over them. Truthfully there shouldn't be more than a 20$ cost difference (if anything) but places that sell things are in the business of making money. I was hunting a compressor first, doing so just for pricing to see whom I was going to deal with... A great example was Napa (not the best place to buy AC parts) I have a commercial account and buy heaps from these guys daily... A 12V run of the mill new compressor is about 300$ (should be about 250$) add the words "with a 24V clutch" and its over 700$ list price... Heavy equipment parts and automotive AC places were the same... You HAVE TO go to a good AC shop that is use to handling both auto and heavy trucks to avoid the 24V $ look!!! Hunting down a 24V compressor is a great way of "feeling out" suppliers for both their pricing and experience with AC in general... If they act as if 24V is something odd and unusual with a weird price you know your talking to the wrong people... If they don't see 24V compressor as a big deal and their in the 250$ range, ask about a 24V blower / condenser set up and see if seems like a biggie (swapping a 12V for 24V electronics is NOT a big event)... If a big mysterious event to them your proably getting warm on finding a parts supply...

Before I get to far ahead of myself.... The following is what I looked into and what I did or didn't find regarding some of the ideas mentioned in the thread above....

Vintage Air... Some of the best AUTOMOTIVE kits around... Hands down they are second to none in development and research for their products. People my knock them but they offer more than anyone can part or piece from any number of catalogs. The down side is they get top dollar for their products, they are 12V systems, their "dealers" are well... Shaky at best, I found everything from DOA businesses to home and commercial businesses whom do nada for auto work selling systems. If you have a LOCAL dealer and are comfortable with them you would proably feel different but everyone I contacted in and out of state was big on selling a kit for a "car" but very small on knowledge, support, etc for custom installs, and VERY slow on getting returned calls... The product is great but if you are going the DIY route and know a little but not everything about A/C work you could find yourself in a lot of trouble with a MV.... With a 67 Camaro it would be quite different!!! Still.... hardware wise these guys have it all but you are on your own for figuring out what parts and pieces to order... A spec'ed out kit for a Deuce without condenser, fan and installation in 12V was 975$ ... OUCH!!

Thermo King... aua I searched high and low for this allusive beast for about a week... After about 25 phone calls to different dealers in Florida and then in Texas and eventually the factory in several departments and offices I gave up. I was told many times that TK manufactured various military applicable products since the 1950's but none were valuable and none were known of which would fit a truck/tractor application.... With the exception of a rear cab mounted unit as found on semi trailers and one console type (pod) unit which could possibly fit between bucket seats... The last person I spoke with was a Nam Vet whom had been employed by TK since 1975, he was a motor pooler and knew exactly what a M35 was,knew his stuff, was extremely helpful and so on.... Very much reassured me (kindly) that I was beating a very dead horse!!!
Unless someone can produce a PRODUCT NUMBER, PN or something from TK Im gonna call this one a myth?? I was really hoping that this would not be the case as a 24V drop in kit of sorts would be a dream!!! I have a feeling someone saw a installed system at a TK dealer using some TK parts that was a "custom jobber"...

HUMMV Kits... These are available on the market, I think Saturn was even advertising them on their site not to long ago... Its a sound idea but I did not like the old reviews of the first civilian Hummer's AC performance. I think it would be a easy upgrade to a actual HUMMV with a few mods and tweaking to bring the system up to better functioning but there is still the 12V factor and the kits are only partial so your still left hunting parts and pieces, making hoses, buying a compressor, etc. It leaves a lot to the imagination and a lot to the unknown when it comes to final performance. I felt like I could have made it work with out much issue but the lingering 12V factor really affected my final decision later in buying.

Window / side cab mount units ... I couldn't stomach hanging something like that off of her!

Roof mounts... There are a lot of varieties of these out there in 24 volt... Some use a engine driven compressor and some you just bolt on, wire and "poof" instant AC... Not a bad deal if you have a box on the back! Personally I see some hang ups... A hard top would never support the 200+ pounds that some of these weigh with out some serious reinforcement being done. Even then I would venture to say off road activity would be a issue with weight, bouncing and sagging. Also height for me personally would be an issue, I could see my brandy new AC unit being knocked flat off by a tree branch on a weekend of rowdy redneck Deuce abuse! :)

After making a lot of calls and chancing a lot of leads (see below) I ended up going with a company called Polar Bear Inc www.polarbearinc.com the guy I dealt with was named Joe, nice guy, knows his stuff, was more than willing to listen, ask questions, ANSWER QUESTIONS, lay out options and investigate minor details. (zero solicitation here) I laid out the details of what I wanted and why and he simply understood and was willing to do the home work to help find the right product. In the end I opted for an after market kit (PN 00204-HC) of sorts with a few custom add on's. It has what I wanted in one package with AC, heat, defrost, under dash mounting with in dash or under dash cable controls, it also comes with vents, ducting and so on. The air box manufacture was willing to custom build the unit for 24V Joe is adding in the switching, dryer, 2 groove 24V compressor, and misc parts and pieces for 725$. 475 for the box, 225$ for the compressor (new), and a few $ in misc parts and pieces... I am still doing the install myself supplying the condenser with fan and doing my own hosing.

As I said before... this is a lot of info but I thought I would share the hours of reading and phone calls for those looking at buying a system for their Deuce... My parts are in a pile and I will be posting pics and so on of my install as Im building under the thread below so keep checking and eventually it will all get posted!!! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=4997
 

wallew

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dman,
THAT was an excellent post. I do have ONE nit to pick.

Personally I see some hang ups... A hard top would never support the 200+ pounds that some of these weigh with out some serious reinforcement being done. Even then I would venture to say off road activity would be a issue with weight, bouncing and sagging. Also height for me personally would be an issue, I could see my brandy new AC unit being knocked flat off by a tree branch on a weekend of rowdy redneck Deuce abuse!

I have a hardtop. I WEIGH 220 lbs. And I climb up on the top of my hardtop all the time. Do I jump up and down on it? NO. I'm afraid of damaging it worse than it is now (slightly dented in). BUT I do think that a 200 lb unit MIGHT work. But that is an iffy statement at best.

About the rest of the statement above. THIS IS TRUE. I have a friend who owns an RV and did just this while backing into a space at an RV park. HE WAS PISSED. Had to contain himself, as his wife was guiding him in and just didn't see how low the limb was. She thought he had clearance. That limb literally removed the AC unit right off the mounts and left nothing but a hole in his roof. One day and about $800 later, it was back in place. So though I think the deuce roof MIGHT hold the weight, I concur with your statement of 'why take the chance' AND it would look ugly as sin.

I CAN'T WAIT to see the final product. Here in Colorado, we RARELY need AC. BUT my relatives all live in Texas and even when we go down in Spring or Fall, it is still HOT, HOT, HOT!!! I've been in San Angelo BEFORE Memorial day and it was 103 degrees. THAT'S WHY I LEFT TEXAS in the first place. Well, that and a few other reasons. But I wouldn't MIND have a well set up AC unit in my cab. I already have the heater (thank you US Military) that works very well.

And I've ALREADY started driving around with my front windows open about four or five inches and the rear window completely open and that pretty much resolves any heat issues as long as I'm moving at all. At highway speeds, it's downright breezy.

So get that AC/Heater/Defroster installed. I WANT PIX! Lots and lots of pix. It's the photographer in me, sorry. But pictures can tell the story as well or better than just words.

WE await the results. I'm sure there will be others who will be following your progress as well.

GOOD LUCK!!

jim
 

clinto

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Have you guys considered putting the unit in the bed and running a hose through the rear window?
 

wallew

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If I had an M109 with the box on the rear, SURE I would consider it. But that 110v is gonna be a killer. You KNOW it's gonna want mega amps on start up...

Can't wait for dman to get his done. Should be a clean install we are all envious of.

jim
 

Kohburn

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a note on the issue of heat obsorbtion through the dark painted surfaces. there are ceramic paint adatives that have been developed and marketed for the "green housing" market that even the dark colors reflect 40% or more of infrared. that cuts the solar heating in half.

for example

Roof Paint, Roof Insulation, Roof Restoration, Reflective Paint, Concrete Paint: Colour Selection

Insulating Paint Additive Makes Paint Insulate

Ceramic Insulating Paint Additive makes any house paint an energy saving insulation paint
 
365
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Anderson Creek, NC
I see all this discussion about heat.
Well in Texas, we have plenty of heat.
So I'm planning on installing a/c in my deuce.

Has anyone out there done this?

I plan to buy a GM compressor with a 12Vdc clutch, power it through a 50 Watt dc/dc converter.
I already have a 24Vdc 3 spd blower.
Then build a box around an evaporator, connect the blower to the box, and put the condenser in front of the radiator.

All sounds simple enough :confused:
Any input or ideas?
Why would you use an expensive 24 VDC to 12 VDC converter for the a/c clutch solonid when all you need is a simple and cheep voltage dropping resistor? If you measure the DC resistance of the clutch coil with an Ohm meter, just add a resistor of the same aproxamate value in series with the circuit. To calculate the correct wattage of the voltage dropping resistor, use Ohm's law, which states that the circuit current is equal to the voltage (24 VDC) devided by the measured resistance of the solonid coil. Then, Watt's law states that the wattage of the circuit, is the voltage (24 VDC) multiplied by the current (calculated in the previous Ohm's law step). Use a voltage dropping resistor that is at least double the calculated value (3 or 4 times is even better to take into account the under hood tempertures). If you need help with this, please feel free to email me and I will be glad to help you.
 
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