Adding spout to 55 gallon steel barrel.

[Benaj]

What does everyone use to add a spout to bottom of 55 gallon steel barrel.

I don't want to use plastic since I plan on using some type of oil heater.

Please share your ideas!

 

[Atwater]

3/4 pipe threads into vent hole... tip the barrel on its side.

 

[Goose2448]

I have a Hydro oil barrel at work for pump stuff. We turned it on its side with a little stand our mechanic made. Put in a plastic type valve that screws into the small vent hole. We open up the larger hole, which is at the top, for ventilation. I am sure you can get one of those valves in brass or some metal.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

I added a shower drain to the bottom of a barrel and plumbed it from there.

 

[bigboy44]

Drum Valves

The small plug on a 55 gallon metal drum is 3/4" pipe threads and all sorts of connections can be made or bought for this use. Granger, Home Depo, Hardware stores ect.

 

[ryan77]

Get a 3/4 ip sill cock it will screw right in and you can hook a hose to it!

 

[Benaj]

I was looking for a way to add it to the bottom for water separation.

 

[PsycoBob]

Tractor supply & others sell bulkhead fittings, but I've yet to find any I'd trust not to leak with oil, especially if the oil's hot. Hydraulic-tank style weld fittings are available.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=hydraulic&keyword=HFWF

 

[gungearz]

I use a $25 manual crank barrel pump from harbor freight. Siphons right from the bottom to the top of the barrel. I think its 5 or 6 gallons per minute.

 

[PsycoBob]

I've got a similar one as a backup. Works nice, but filling a half-empty truck sucks.

My main transfer pump is a 16gpm log splitter pump run at half speed. 8gpm is slightly under the max speed of gasoline station pumps, so it's pretty quick & it doesn't care if the oil's cold- motor just draws more power. Now that I've got a 1hp 3450rpm motor, I may try running it at full speed, just to see if my truck's 3kw true-sine inverter will handle it.

FWIW, those nifty diesel-powered 50gpm fuel transfer pumps that sometimes pop up on GL... not so awesome with 40-50degree oil. 1.5" lines, only a 6ft head (rated for 100ft) ****ed thing barely managed 5gpm at reduced speed. Smoked like a monster from the viscosity at full rpm. Topped 10gpm at full speed unloading from the truck, no smoke.

 

[wdbtchr]

One thing to note if you decide to use the weld in type of fitting, don't put it on the side or bottom next to the seam of the drum. I've brazed several regular pipe fittings to steel drumms and if you do it next to the seam it will leak, there's a sealer in the rolled joint that will cause it to fail. If you want to drain water weld it in the center of the drumhead. That will cause the drumhead to expand slightly and you can push the bulge out to form a small low spot. The one I use sets on concrete blocks.

Nowdays I use one of those tote bins with a built in valve on the bottom. It's set slightly lower on the valve side to accumulate the water at the valve. I like it best because it holds a lot and i can just let my oil accumulate until I have time to process a batch meanwhile the sludge and water can continue to separate.

 

[m16ty]

Hydraulic-tank style weld fittings are available.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=hydraulic&keyword=HFWF

Be very, very careful if going this route. I used drum can explode and kill you if welded on.

There are ways to weld it safely but if you're not 100% sure how to do it, hire a professional.

 

[PsycoBob]

Yep- if the drum has any lingering fumes at all, adding an ignition source will end badly. If you can, use a clean drum that's never had anything dangerous in it. Food-safe drums often have a plastic coating inside. That may cause it's own issues.

Biodiesel/WVO sites often sell pre-welded drums. Costs more, but someone else gets to worry about burning-plastic fumes or explosion/fire hazards.

All-metal bulkhead fittings are also available, but prices can be steeper than buying a pre-modded drum.

 

[M543A2]

The best way I know to remove water and sediment from oil in a barrel is to store the barrel outside or in a unheated building in the winter. After the water in the bottom has frozen, pump off the oil or tip the barrel and drain the oil. The ice will not come out, and it also traps sediment.
A barrel cart as pictured is really handy. It tips the barrel easily to allow draining with a tap in a bung. The little rollers in picture 3 allow you to rotate a barrel on the cart to position the bungs for draining. You can also roll the barrel and cart around on a concrete floor. These carts are available from industry supply houses.
Regards Marti