Adjusting CUCV Injector Pump

[mr.travo]

jdemaris-

You sound like you know what you are talking about. I guess I would need someone to show me (monkey see monkey do). My 1008 won't high idle when it's cold and it doesn't idle as low as my 1009. I sure they are simple fixes, I just want them both back to "factory settings".

 

[jdnodo]

My m1009 is spitting blue smoke out the driver side tail pipe only: what will cause it to do that? Most of the time it will quit smoking after I get moving down the road.

 

[jdnodo]

The truck is running fine It just has some blue smok coming out the driverside tailpipe then it gets warmed up and quits.

 

[Westech]

That is burning oil smoke. Valve seals or oil rings on the pistons. If it goes away after warm up no big deal. Just let her warm up for a couple min before you start driving down the road.

 

[jdnodo]

OK thanx man it just threw mw off when i side had smoke and the other didnt.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

Are you sure you got the right injection pump? Sounds like you might have one too big. A 6.2 uses a .29" pump and a 6.5 uses a .31"pump. What is the ID number on your's?

For example, this is a 6.2 pump -
DB2829-4879 10149634 1990½ HMMWV (Military) - 1.2 cSt
Note the "29" in the 5th and 6th digits. That stands for .29"

This is a 6.5 pump -
DB2831-5149 12550433 1994-96 HMMWV (Military) - N/A, 1.2 cSt (170 hp)
Note the 31 in the 5th and 6th digits. That stands for .31"

And yeah, maybe somebody took a 6.2 pump and turned the fuel up higher then it ought to be. But, that's only going to effect max fuel setting. It will NOT make it smoke badly in normal driving unless you're really working it.

On the other hand, a pump that's too big will make it smoke all the time.

In regard to timing - most people and mechanics have no way of checking it. The whole idea of lining up the marks doesn't mean much. All that does is verify that your timing will be correct when the engine is cranking or at idle speed. Does nothing to tell you if the timing is correct when the engine is pushing you down the road at highway speeds.

The Stanadyne pump has an automatic timinjg advance that advances ignition/injection timing almost 14 degrees before-top-dead-center at high RPMs. Then it drops back to no advance when idling, or just cranking it to start. So, it's easy to have a pump with the advance not working, yet you set it according to those marks - and when driving, your timing is off by 14 degrees - which is a lot.

The only ways to check timing on a 6.2s are - with a diesel timing light adapter, . . . or with a luminosity probe stuck into a glow-plug hole, or . . . with the pump off the engine and mounted on a test stand. There is another way - sort of. A timing window can be mounted on the pump -but it's hard to do with a 6.2 since the pump is kind of buried in the middle of the engine, down low.

So I shouldnt be worried about having to retard my timing.. My engine all of a sudden got really loud like it was running way to far advanced. SO I retarded the timing and she sounds like my old baby again.

 

[cjtroutt]

You need to advanc the timing a litte to the street side of the engine.
the line on ingection pump and the front cover was timed to the IP that came with it from factory when change IP the new pump need to be timed with a diesel timing meter I have snapon MT1480 or do the ajustment a little at a time and do not do while it is running it could be a bad day. if you have any more Q&A pm me with PH I give you a call talk you through it.

 

[HAWKMAN]

I was checking this thread to see about turning up my fuel pressure a bit, was wondering if it is common for these pumps to have NO screws at all?? mine was lacking...I guess this one was pre-set at factory?. I did pull apart another pump on a parts engine and found the same thing any ideas??First pic is top cover off...second is triangle side cover off...

 

[camp9]

There was a really good utube I looked at a while back that showed how to turn it up.

 

[HAWKMAN]

I did see that video but the pump they were working on showed an allen type screw that was turned 1/4 turn, my pump has no such screw, just a hole...?

 

[K9Vic]

There was a really good utube I looked at a while back that showed how to turn it up.

It is still there on YouTube.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnoct-21vNY[/media]

 

[camp9]

I did see that video but the pump they were working on showed an allen type screw that was turned 1/4 turn, my pump has no such screw, just a hole...?

Well, that would present a problem. Are all the MV cucv's like this?

 

[HAWKMAN]

Well, that would present a problem. Are all the MV cucv's like this?

Excellent question!...anyone 'in the know' care to take a shot at this???

 

[CUCVFAN]

Excellent question!...anyone 'in the know' care to take a shot at this???

Hmmm. Do you mean there is no allen screw in the the threaded hole? Or, there is no threaded hole in the window?

 

[HAWKMAN]

No threads,no screws, just a hole. In the video they are showing an allen key being inserted into a screw in that hole...my pump only has that hole...no threads...no screw.I pulled another pump from a another CUCV motor I had that was T/O and pulled the cover and found it to be the same...no threads...no screw...just a hole.I'm thinking this adjusting thing may be a civy addition.

 

[sdasdona]

I was reading the thread to get some answers and came across yours. My 6.2 runs fine but excessive black smoke when I hit the gas. I understand that you can reduce the fuel delivery on the IP but will this actually change this situation? Mine is NA and at high altitude so before I do this I would like some feedback on wether this will actually create change in the smoke and power. thanks Randy

 

[Zero_cool]

No threads,no screws, just a hole. In the video they are showing an allen key being inserted into a screw in that hole...my pump only has that hole...no threads...no screw.I pulled another pump from a another CUCV motor I had that was T/O and pulled the cover and found it to be the same...no threads...no screw...just a hole.I'm thinking this adjusting thing may be a civy addition.

You have to rotate the engine untill the screw lines up with the hole.

15/16th'' socket on the crank pully rotateing it clockwise while yur helper looks down the hole.

Turning adjusting screw clockwise will advance and counter clockwise will retard fuel.

1/8th turn for N/A engine
1/4 turn with turbo

You can see screw in pic one
Also in pic two at the end of my allen wrench.

 

[albersondh]

You have to rotate the engine untill the screw lines up with the hole.


Turning adjusting screw clockwise will advance and counter clockwise will retard fuel.

The screw in question has nothing to do with the function of the pumps advance mechanism. This screw simply retians a torsion plate that holds the rotor roller shoes onto the rotor. The rollers spin around the cam ring (thing with hole in it you are looking through) and get pushed in/out buy the lobes on the cam ring. As these rollers, that are attached to shoes, that are held in place by a torsion plate, that is secured to the rotor body by the secret screw, move in/out, they act on pumping plungers internal to the rotor. The secret screw, by adjusting tension on the torsion plate, adjusts the roller to roller distance, which also adjusts the size of main fuel cavity between the pumping plungers.

- Turning the screw adjusts the size of the main fuel cavity, allowing more/less fuel per stroke, that’s it....

Advance mechanism operates by a pressure differential between the transfer pump and cavity pressures. The cam ring is attached to a pin, that is attached to a piston, that has transfer pump pressure on one side, and cavity pressure on the other. This piston slides back/forth in the little perpendicular cylinder on the bottom of the pump. When the piston moves one way it moves a pin, the pin moves the cam ring, this advances or retards the injection pump timing.

- Pinch the return fuel hose coming out of the top of the pump while at idle and normal op-temp. What happens? The engine should die. This is because by pinching the return fuel hose, you have just spiked the pump cavity pressure, sending the pump into full retard. The engine should stall if everything is working correctly.


Best results for power I have seen are a combination of plunger increase (turn secret screw) and an increase of a few hundred RPM. I would do this by adjusting mini-max governor spring tension with a shim pack (washers). This is easy to do on the dyno or in the field. Have not messed with delivery valve size or x-fer pump pressure increasing power but bet a few ponies are their as well.