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Advice on HMMWV tires on these things with stockish wheels

allrevup

Member
271
2
18
Location
Delaware
You are welcome, I pick this up in Pittsburg, Pa., from a 1972 fire truck, the stock they used is extremly heavy 3/16"+ the mesh as well. I had to modifie the pegs (had then narrowed) otherwise it fit as close to the cab countour very well. I hope this photos help.
 

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Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
True that! It also gave me another idea on how to mount my headache rack. I really wanted to make some plates and mount it to the frame so it would actually serve as rollover protection just in case I ever needed it to...but all I really NEED it to do is look awesome, serve as a mounting point for some pull handles to get in the truck, clearance lights, bed/offroad lights, my CB antenna, and my air horns. Oh..and protect the cab too, I guess :roll:

Depending on how my decisions to run stacks goes, I might mount them to the crossbar at the bottom for stability.
 

allrevup

Member
271
2
18
Location
Delaware
Trailready and copperhead among other.

If you have the wheels and the welding skills to do it yourself "safely & correctly" it will cost you about the same as the spacers, actually less (press in or flat) if you have to buy or ship then the wheels and or have some one do it for you, it will cost considerably more, with out options.

By the way, I have used aluminum spacer on my M1008 since April of 2005, now about 35K. miles with out any problems, other then their heavy weight for a 36" tire/wheels/incerts let alone the heavier 37".
Buy good ones, 4 1/2" bored for Chevy's or 4 3/4" for some ohers, SAE lugs or 14 m/m, follow bolting pattern, torque to specs and re-torque then twice the first couple hundred miles (Aluminum has a crush value) and every time you rotate the tires and they will be as trouble free as anything man made. I will not say that it has not happened, but I have not heard of any failures either.
 
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