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Aftermarket reduction transmission?

Jones

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Rather than tacking a second gearbox onto the existing transmission; another consideration might be a 9 or 13 speed out of an 18-wheeler with built-in over/under capabilities. Theoretically, anything with an unmarried trans/transfer case could be made to accept an aux. trans. but it would involve new x-members for the relocated transfer case, altered driveshafts/ shift linkage/ etc. if you could get it to fit under there. I find that even on something as big as these trucks are, there are still some pretty tight quarters.
Not sure an over/under unit that goes on between trans/transfer case and rear axle would work because, unless you were in direct, the front and rear axles(s) would be too far out to keep from doing themselves harm.
The deuce has survived in pretty much an unaltered form since WW II because it's a design that just seems to work. Personal experience has taught me that when I start down the driveway after finishing a 3 month Whiz-bang, "I bet this'll work slick" modification; I find out in pretty short order why the military didn't go that route.
 

jwaller

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What kinda bellhousing do the multi's have? is it the same as any production diesel engine? could a class 8 trans drop right in with different mounts?
 

linesplice

New member
I just asssumed there would be more work involved in creating an adapter plate for a different transmission. I also was thinking of an aux gearbox mainly for reducing RPM's at highway speed. I don't think I'd want to ever go 70 in one of these because of the brakes, but getting more reasonable RPM's at 55 sounds like a good idea. I realized you couldn't sync the ratios on the front and rear axles once you install a secondary box, but when you have the front axle engaged, I expect you are just going to be mudding it, and perhaps one of the aux. transmissions has a 1:1 ratio and an overdrive ratio so you can preserve the stock?
 

NEIOWA

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Re: RE: Aftermarket reduction transmission?

jwaller said:
What kinda bellhousing do the multi's have? is it the same as any production diesel engine? could a class 8 trans drop right in with different mounts?
You want to know the SAE (Society of Automotive Eng) bellhousing size. I'll bet a broken Allison MT 634 (sad story) the duece has a std SAE size. This may help-

http://www.foleyengines.com/DDSK/DrDieselShopKink21.html

or

http://zf-marine.com/Transmissions/index.cfm?PID=CE&JSESSIONID=9c301880f62c7860157b&CFApp=1
 

Jones

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RE: Re: RE: Aftermarket reduction transmission?

Have to get my notes out to be sure but it's either SAE 2 or 3. Don't remember which one right off the top of my head.
 

jwaller

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RE: Re: RE: Aftermarket reduction transmission?

seems like if it were std then getting those rpms down to reasonable levels will improve noise and MPG. I really dont want to go any faster than say 60-65 I'd just ike to be able to do it without all the screaming from under the hood and do it with better milage. I know the deuce has pretty good milage for what it is but I know with half the rpm's it's gotta be even better.
 

rizzo

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RE: Re: RE: Aftermarket reduction transmission?

someone told me a 9 speed commercial semi trans would fit right in behind the multi fuel.
 

gringeltaube

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The multifuel bell housing is a SAE #2, 10 bolt on 18 3/8". Via an adapter ring it is mounted to the Spicer tranny which is SAE#3, 10 on 16 7/8". Gas engine also is #3.

Gerhard
 

houdel

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Jim - If all you want is reduced rpms at highway speeds, just replace your stock 9:00-20s with 11:00-20s or 12:00-20s. A lot cheaper & easier than a trans swap. While you are at it, flip the hubs and run singles on the rear and improve handling and tire wear. If you can pony up the bucks, the Michelin 12:00-20 radials look really great as super singles! Don't forget to change the speedo adapter also, Saturn has the correct adapter for 11:00-20s for under $30, should be close enough for the 12:00-20s.

Don't expect to be able to run at "half the rpm's" at highway speeds in the Deuce. The engine doesn't have the power to hold highway speeds at 1300 rpm, unless you've built your truck up to a 300-400 hp monster. A 10%-15% reduction, say 2200-2300 rpm at cruise is probably as good as you can do without having to downshift for every tar joint in the road.

Also, don't expect too much noise reduction. Sure, the exhaust noise will decrease some, but the background mechanical noise increases greatly. I've been doing some sound level testing in my truck, at around 50-55 mph the background noise (engine clatter, gear whine, tire noise, metal parts vibrating and shaking, wind noise) starts to exceed the exhaust noise! If you want a quieter ride at 60-65 mph you will need to do some soundproofing as well. Remember, you are driving a truck designed on 1949 technology!
 

hot rod deuce

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I have a 613 layin here with the right bell and input shaft so you can use your clutch and flywheel if some one is interested. just ditch the adapter ring and slap it on
 
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