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Air-O-Manual Steering

Pugsley

Member
92
4
8
Location
NW Indiana
I have been wanting to add power steering to my deuce but only really feel the need for it at low speeds. I figure I can build a manual version of the AOM system where when not in use both sides of the cylinder are connected to atmosphere. You would have a little more drag when steering normally and I could live with that. Now at slower or stopped speeds you could have a manual toggle to admit air to help steer left or right and when released would go back to a neutral position and provide no assist.

I have a question to people who have driven a truck with AOM installed, How much help does this system add to the steering. Does it make the wheel really light or is it still kinda heavy? I have no ideal on the forces involved with steering so I am wondering just how big in diameter the cylinder will need to be to be worth installing.

Thanks.
 

peashooter

Well-known member
1,039
204
63
Location
Hanover, minnesota
I have one but haven't driven one without AOM. I believe the ram cylinder is a 5" diameter. It can still take a fair amount of muscle to turn the wheel when turning during real slow speeds (like when backing up to park) but its not ridiculous, more than any car I've given and more than I'd want to try with one hand. The only thing I don't like about aom is that when driving at highway speeds on curvy country roads, the drag link valve doesn't activate until you start turning some. So what happens is that you start turning around a slight curve just fine but then the aom kicks in and tries to help which end up giving you a delayed oversteer and can produce some wandering unless you intentionally try to correct for it ahead of time.
 

Pugsley

Member
92
4
8
Location
NW Indiana
Well that is kind of disappointing. It sounds that you would need a much larger cylinder for it to be any good. I would not be using it while driving at speed so the over steer thing would not be an issue for me.

That's the Waterloo one? I have looked at his system but it says it's not recommended for highway use. I like to drive mine on road as much as I do off road.
 

m16ty

Moderator
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Dickson,TN
The air assist works ok. It's not as good as full hyd but is sufficient in my opinion. It's night and day difference from stock at slow speeds.

I think what your wanting to build would work and be fairly cheap but would be awfully cumbersome to operate and could be dangerous. Imagine accidentally hitting the switch going down the road and the air cylinder taking you right into the ditch or a minivan full of kids.
 

peashooter

Well-known member
1,039
204
63
Location
Hanover, minnesota
Well that is kind of disappointing. It sounds that you would need a much larger cylinder for it to be any good. I would not be using it while driving at speed so the over steer thing would not be an issue for me.

That's the Waterloo one? I have looked at his system but it says it's not recommended for highway use. I like to drive mine on road as much as I do off road.
Yeah, the system does use a ton of air also. What I do like about the AOM is that your current stock steering system stays the same essentially but just adds air assist. So if you have no air or have a problem with the system where you want to disconnect it by closing its air valve, then you basically go back to a standard system.
I'd certainly add AOM if you found one for the right price, but the cost of a new AOM from many vendors isn't much less than the cost of a hydraulic system from some vendors.... in that case I'd go hydraulic most likely.... but I personally would never spend $2000+ to add power steering to my deuce.


I assume if you built a system you would still use an AOM draglink valve right? I'm not sure how you could safely build a setup without having that part. There are members on here that sell takeout draglink valves for around $200. I remember deucecoupe had some a while back.
 
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Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,341
329
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
Well that is kind of disappointing. It sounds that you would need a much larger cylinder for it to be any good. I would not be using it while driving at speed so the over steer thing would not be an issue for me.

That's the Waterloo one? I have looked at his system but it says it's not recommended for highway use. I like to drive mine on road as much as I do off road.
He says the Waterloo system is for off-road use only simply for liability reasons. He can not control the quality of install that the end user accomplishes, which could be dangerous if done to subpar standards. Plenty of people have bought his system and love it. You can't go wrong with the Waterloo system if you can afford it and are capable of doing the install, which isn't that hard.
 

Pugsley

Member
92
4
8
Location
NW Indiana
Well if I build the manual air system All I would be doing to the truck is adding a assist cylinder. It would in turn be manually operated by a switch on the shifter, so no drag link valve needed. I would also have another switch to disable the system completely so there is no chance of an accidental activation of it. I would be electrically operated with a 5way valve. Then if I needed to I could add restrictions to help control speed/force. My control does the same thing the drag link would do... but would not be automatic and would only be used at very low speeds.

I think however I might just spend the money and have a friend help me install the Waterloo kit. It seems like the way to go.

You know what... Even if I build my system and it doesn't work as well as I thought it would, I will have at least learn something and not have spent a ton of money. I could always use the parts to build a catapult or something to put in the bed... maybe get around to building that pumpkin cannon.:shrugs:
 

m16ty

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Dickson,TN
I still think a switch operated air assist is dangerous. What are you going to do if you bump the switch accidentally going down the road? My thinking is you'll loose control.
 

M-1028

New member
169
0
0
Location
Sealy, Tx
I've got less than $600 in my full hydro system on my deuce (All the parts where brand new). I do have to replace the orbital valve due to the fact that the steering is too fast for my liking, so factor another $400 for a new valve built to my specs. My truck is bobbed on 1600's both axles are locked and you can steer with your pinky. Over 1000 miles on the street since I got the truck going about 6 months ago.
 

M-1028

New member
169
0
0
Location
Sealy, Tx
I'm interested in details :)
Surplus center 2.5x10" single ended ram $80
Chevy power steering pump (p pump) fabbed up my own brackets $50
Belt $20
Fluid $20
Psc orbital and fittings, I got lucky and scored a new one off of an off road forum for cheap, but like I said I need a new one.$200
Lines and fittings $200
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
Surplus center 2.5x10" single ended ram $80
Chevy power steering pump (p pump) fabbed up my own brackets $50
Belt $20
Fluid $20
Psc orbital and fittings, I got lucky and scored a new one off of an off road forum for cheap, but like I said I need a new one.$200
Lines and fittings $200
Mind posting a few pictures?
 

rolling18

Active member
621
75
28
Location
Portland, OR
Why would you want a switched system???
I added the AOM to my truck, it only activates when you apply 10LBS of steering effort, witch you would only apply at slow turning speeds. Try that at a fast pace and see how fast you ROLL!!

I also have the 395/ 85 MVT tires with over 12in of contact patch compared to the stock NDT 3-4" if that.
even with the larger tires effort is sooo much easier that full manual. especially manuvering in tight places

Since that DOES use up allot of air fast, I installed another air tank.
I installed the complete boxed kit in my driveway with hand tools and a bottle jack!!

Sorry if this was T.M.I.
sounds like you are just trying to save expence/ install labor?
 
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