• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

air regulator?? clicking constantly

mrvb1969

New member
4
0
1
Location
albuquerque/nm
I have been a long time "customer" of this site. I have found solutions to all of my questions, problems, concerns with a good search...but I am not to sure about this one. Over the past couple of drives with my Deuce, I have noticed that the Air regulator (i figured this out on the site) has gradually worked it way up to open/close constantly. It is gotten to the point where it it opens/closes about every 10 seconds. My pressure guage shows my normal pressure of 100 psi, and of course fluctuates slightly when opening/closing. I do not understand the theory of how this works, hence the "open/close" phrasing. I have service manuals but i cannot find explanation of the theory of operation. Granted, I have not delved into the schematics. Is there also electrical involved in the operation of the regulator? This past weekend my batteries went dead, and that has never happened in the five years I have owned the truck.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
1968 m35a2-1c
 

stumps

Active member
1,700
11
38
Location
Maryland
Have you ever drained your wet tank? If it gets full of water the regulator will cycle very frequently.

-Chuck
 

mrvb1969

New member
4
0
1
Location
albuquerque/nm
Wet tank? That's a new one to me. I pride myself on getting as much info as I can before I bother you guys You certainly are not talking about the air tanks below the vehicle right? Am I to assume it is on the regulator?
And thanks for the quick response

@gimpyrob: What kind of oil for this suggestion?
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
You should drain both tanks after driving, the condensation will rust out everything, airpack, air assisted steering, horn solenoid, etc.
I'd try wd-40 or air tool oil.
 

mrvb1969

New member
4
0
1
Location
albuquerque/nm
I do drain drain my holding tanks every time after driving, but I have never heard of a wet tank. So, we are all in agreement that it is the regulator, right? I was looking for confirmation before i started throwing parts at it.
Thanks for all the help guys!!!
 

stumps

Active member
1,700
11
38
Location
Maryland
The inner most of the two air tanks is called the wet tank. The outer tank is called the dry tank. The wet tank is the first place where the newly compressed air (with all of its compressed moisture) goes. As the air cools, the moisture condenses out, and fills the tank with water. On the top of the wet tank is a check valve, and a line that goes to the dry tank. By the time the air leaves the wet tank, it is much lower relative humidity, and is dry enough to be used with the brake assist unit, trailer brakes, and the wiper motors.

Your routine just before shutdown should always include draining the water from your wet and dry tanks. It is a good thing to do while you are idling a couple of minutes to cool your engine down.

Regulators on air compressors take a beating because the compressor feeds them a bunch of warm moist air, which condenses out when the compressor isn't pumping. That water wrecks the oil, and rusts up the regulator. If you have been keeping your wet tank drained, the next place to go is to shoot some air tool oil into the line between the compressor and the regulator. Regulators are really easy to rebuild, should that be necessary.

-Chuck
 

Armorsolutions

New member
16
0
0
Location
Heber UT
I had this problem a few weeks back. Took the regulator apart, cleaned reassemnled and it still did it. Then I checked the airline from regulator to compressor head. A hole had worn where copper line had rubbed on valve covers. It was gradually getting bigger but was largely sealed by the valve cover contact. A few feet of 1/4 copper line and good to go.
 
Top