Still the failure prone rubber design (just a backet added for when it fails).Is the torque rod a "dogbone"?
This is for the Deuce ROK version KM250, disallows dogbone coming apart on failure.
They could have a solution for the 5 tons too, K711?
Some should maybe look that up.
View attachment 714485
and post 9+11 in here
Any pics or a link to the tool for the upper castle nuts? With my luck, mine will fail and I rather make the tool than disassemble half the rear end suspension to change them out.After having 3 fall apart on 2 off-road trips, I have resorted to parking the truck until I can replace all 12 (well, 11 now since I renewed one so far). I have been fortunate in that the ones that failed on me have been passenger side lower. If driver side lower, the axle can shift enough to cause damage, and if upper, the axle will rotate and break everything attached to it. The rotational force of braking is much higher than acceleration in these vehicles, so it seems these usually will pop off during on-road braking, or off road uneven surface.
Best ballpark pricing I have seen so far appears to be about $50ea for stock replacement, and $100ea for the ball-joint type. The ball joint type do have a flange on their back side to retain the control arm firmly, only question on them is ability of the ball-socket to stay in place.
My choice is going to be all new stock replacements, drilled and tapped 1/2" thread in the center on lathe before installation for securement of a large metal plate, in essence same as the M35 posted above. If the rod end hits during full articulation, the round plates can easily be removed, cut down into rectangles, and reinstalled.
I have been fortunate enough to be able to use large ratchet straps to hold the axle in proper place for a 1 hour freeway drive home @ 60mph, both times. Re-tightened and check each mile for the first 3 miles, then go. Problem-free.
High-5 to SwampDonky for the shallow-angle tool he fabbed to work the pass side top-center castle nuts. No spring pack work necessary. I eBay'd a 2-1/4" socket to make the same tool.
The cotter pins basically do not come out. I simply turned the nut with them in place and sheared them off. I think even then they may not be able to be pin-punched out. Some have drilled, but in my case, I am not re-using, so whatever.
I hate tapered joints, but was surprised how easily they did come apart. I just followed the wood splitter wedge trick posted, whacked the axle side metal a few times, and off it came.
I guess it is not a Chinese secret since he posted it. It is one of those posts that are valuable, yet hidden in the bowels of the castle. ~
Wrench build pics: Post #4929 here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...have-you-done-to-your-5-ton-this-week/page493
That doesn't happen on a stop. Only when you take off. The axle shifting forward would not pull the splines out. You either didnt feel the little push when you stopped which should have as it feels like a 20,000lb trailer just shoved you when you applied the brakes. Then you either took off and that happened or tried to limp it and didn't know to drive with light throttle and use your emergency brake to stop as well as override your spring brake. The axle only shifts when the brakes are applied.
Full story is I pulled out of the yard, made a left, went 500 ft to the stop sign which was down a steep hill, the air over hydros are touchy and they locked up for a second pulling the rear axle back enough to pull the drive shaft out. I got out looked and saw the DS laying there and the spring pack about to fall off the perch, so I backed up and braked to slide the whole thing forward that worked. I continued to back up back to the yard as slow as possible with the shaft flying around...I tried to ratchet strap the drive shaft under it so it could spin freely, but ended up catching and breaking the 20k strap...lol anyway at that point i said screw it and just slowly backed up with it flopping around, the front yoke was destroyed, so i grabbed a new setup from easternsurplus, they had it to me in 2 days no fuss no muss (i know theres cheaper places to get stuff, but sometimes you can beat ease of purchase and shipping) and replaced the broken end with the HD'sThat doesn't happen on a stop. Only when you take off. The axle shifting forward would not pull the splines out. You either didnt feel the little push when you stopped which should have as it feels like a 20,000lb trailer just shoved you when you applied the brakes. Then you either took off and that happened or tried to limp it and didn't know to drive with light throttle and use your emergency brake to stop as well as override your spring brake. The axle only shifts when the brakes are applied.
Judging by the mud i think they are all worn out.
These pics are the result of uppers failing. This was at 10mph. The lowers i could care less about. The uppers being the stronger inserts would benefit the most
Uppers will generally only pop on a hard brake. I have had a few lowers pop at 55 to 60mph hitting bumps. You feel that your alignnent is off pretty quick.
I thank god i wasn't going fast lol, anyway I'm not going far or fast until i replace them all. 10 more to go FML...lolYep, another one.
I parked my truck until I can replqce all 12 of mine. I’ve had 3 pop off in a row now. Luckily nothing broke, and was able to drive home with heavy duty ratchet strap control arms.
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!