All it take is one nasty glow plug to ruin one's day!

[joesco]

Well, I began to chip away and my to do list to make my new CUCV road worthy and I replaced the fuel filter yesterday. Today I was hoping remove the relay card, install a momentary switch along with new Wellman 070 glow plugs. Well I completed the first two tasks without a problem. I can now hear my relay cycle on and off!!! I wanted to loosen all the glow plugs before proceeding with the installation. Found that a glow plug wire was disconnected on the 3rd glow plug on the battery side of the engine. That was causing my hard start issues. All the glow plugs loosen up without any problems. Boy I felt accomplished!

OF COURSE THE GLOW PLUG IN THE WORSE POSSIBLE POSITION, second from last right in front of the rear battery would not come out. After four hours of spraying it with PB and twisting it back it forth, I can't get the darn plug out. I have since broken off the connector spade with my needle nose pliers and the plug appears to have been bent by using my needle nose vice grips, but still turns freely.

The plug tip HAS NOT SNAPPED OF YET!

Guys, how do I get this bugger out without tip falling into never never land???

The major problem I have is that I don't have a lot of room to work with. It seems you alway have one nut, one plug, one frozen screw and it is alway in the worse possible place. I am desperate!!! Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[ralbelt]

Take the rear battery and tray out, then you can climb right in and get at everything.

 

[joesco]

If the worst happens and you break it off generally you can take the injector out and get the broken piece out through there.

Thanks, can it fall into the cylinder / block?

 

[l1a1man]

I bought a swollen glow plug tool off ebay and it worked good. Had one break off. Like above, pull injector and use long, thin, needle nose pliers to remove it.

 

[joesco]

I bought a swollen glow plug tool off ebay and it worked good. Had one break off. Like above, pull injector and use long, thin, needle nose pliers to remove it.

Well folks, after another 10 mins (total 4.5 hours on 1 stuck gp) this morning, I finally freed the stuck gp. I used a small vice grips with a small pry bar and with 10 minutes the little sucker came right out intact.

I remove the GP controller card, finished wiring up the momentary switch and I must say this is the way to go. I used the seat belt buzzer (thanks fellow steeler!) and the truck fired right up.

Some additional observations... I am pretty sure the controller card was shot and toasted the glow plugs. I have noticed that my voltage gage is now in the green instead of the red. So I think the bypass gp system is the way to go. I home runned the wires directly from the new switch a ground on the firewall and the other wire (16g) directly to the relay. Some solder and heat shrink on the new wire connections to be on the safe site assuring a good connection.

Now I need to find out why the trans shifts at 30 mph instead of 13 or 15 mph. I replaced the vacuum lines that go from the pump to the IP and on Monday hope to find the ones that travel down to the transmission. Any thoughts are welcome.

Once that issue is fixed, then I need find out why I am leaking diesel fuel near my transmission pan.

Thanks again for all help!

 

[kassim503]

The leaking diesel may be originating from the ip, they tend to leak into the valley which drains into the bellhousing that could be mistaken as a pan leak. Do a search I'm sure there is much info on this here on the forum.

 

[kassim503]

Also check your vaucuum modulator lines for the shifting, the hoses become britle with age

 

[joesco]

Here are some pics of the g/p bypass. It is the way to go IMHO....

 

[murryinmcminnvilletn]

fuel leak

Is the leake on the pasinger side more so?? If so check the water fuel seperater braket it has a bad habbit to leake good luck

 

[chevymike]

Nice work.

I had the exact same problem with my trans not shift unless at high RPM. After I replaced all of the vacuum lines and verified I was getting 8" of vaccum at the point where the trans modulator is, figured it was the modulator that was bad. Quick trip to NAPA, $16 and 20 minutes later it is working as it should. I was very happy!

I have heard some say you will lose a little fluid from removing the modulator but I was on my sloopped driveway and did not lose any. Had a catch pan just in case.

 

[stormtrooper]

Do you not get the white smoke from a bad modulator on these like you do on a regular auto tranny?

 

[chevymike]

Not likely since the vacuum source (i.e. vacuum pump) is not directly plumbed into the engine, so it would never be burnt and hence no white smoke.