Alternator rebuild

[CamoCUCV]

After correcting all my circuit issues with the help of a great thread started by Barrman, I was able to come to realize I need to rebuild both my passenger side and driver side alt.

Question #1 should I tear them down first and check to see if the windings are cooked before ordering rebuild kit. Ive never rebuilt an alternator before. I'm an HVAC-R tech by trade Ive rebuilt a lot of things this don't worry me at all especially since I have the TM's, But any advice would be appreciated


Question #2 Someone has bypassed one of the inline fuse links that run from the large red on Gen 2 to the Terminal Block. Can I just purchase a generic inline fuse to fix this what amp rating is it?


Thanks.

 

[Warthog]

You can open the alternator before ordering parts but the windings and stator usually are fine.

Tow4 has a great rebuild tutorial in the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky. He also has rebuild kits for sale in the classifieds.

Fusible link safe designed to carry major loads. Most fuses will not handle the load. Best to replace with the proper fusible link. They are also talked about in the stickies.

 

[CamoCUCV]

Great! found it. I didn't even know about that CUCV Helpful Threads sticky.
Still learning my around. But this site has been priceless! I will try now and fine the proper fuse link OEM

 

[Warthog]

A few major things to watch out for when rebuilding the alternators:

1 - When removing or installing the rear bearing make sure you use some type of support. If not you WILL crack the case

2 - Make sure the insulating washers are documented when you remove parts and re-installed them in the proper location. If not you will see fireworks on GEN2 when you hook up the batteries.

3 - Always take pictures before removing or disconnecting stuff. You WILL forget where things go. I know I do.

You will find stickies in almost all the forums here. There has been alot of great info posted over the years. While we can't sticky all of it we try to get the best.

And a note to everyone, if you think a post is "sticky worthy" please let a moderator know and we will review it.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

1 - When removing or installing the rear bearing make sure you use some type of support. If not you WILL crack the case.

A large deep-well socket works well for this. Pick a size that fits as closely as possible to the case opening to get maximum support. I don't recall the correct size, but you don't want something like, say, a 2" socket. You want it just big enough to allow the old bearing to be pushed into it, while supporting the case as closely as possible to the opening.

Come to think of it, a 1" or maybe a 3/4" short pipe nipple might work.