Aluminum vs Steel Block heater

[The Baron]

Today I was at Napa Auto Parts shopping for a block heater to help start the 6.2 up on those below 0 days. The kind that you insert into where a freeze plug is. They had the option of either a steel bodied or aluminum bodied block heater. There was only a four dollar price difference between the two. I am thinking that the aluminum one may be better because it will not rust. Do you any of your have any thoughts or experience on which would be the better choice?

 

[Chaski]

I'd pass on those. I like the brass zerostart heaters, or the OEM GM block heater (which I think may be a zerostart)

The part number for a 1,000 watt one is 310-0059

Whatever you get be sure to follow the instructions and clean out the hole on the block. Zerostart suggests silicone grease for the o-ring where it inserts in the block. It is also a good idea to get an inch pound torque wrench to tighten it up to spec.

 

[Tinstar]

Zerostart

Block heaters aren't fun to install
I wouldn't want to do it twice to save $4

My 06 duramax has a GM (zerostart) from the factory
I'm approaching 375,000 miles on it and it still heats up the block great !

 

[Jozseph]

As "Chaski" wrote, purchase a brass body one.

FWIW I have a brass one installed on the driver side, center core plug.

Regards

 

[AECS]

Aluminum does rust. I promise. I am an 18 year Aircraft Technician and aluminum definitely corrodes. I would go steel, keep the metal the same, mix the two and you will get dissimilar metal corrosion, also known as Galvanic corrosion.

 

[The Baron]

Would it be a problem getting the brass bodied one, since they are different metals, AECS?

 

[AECS]

This is from the mil STD 889, the farther apart the two alloys are on the chart the more corrosion will be an issue.

Second Table from MIL-STD-889:
Active (Anodic) End
------------------------------------
Magnesium
Mg alloy AZ-31B
Mg alloy HK-31A
Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
Beryllium (hot pressed)
Al 7072 clad on 7075
Al 2014-T3
Al 1160-H14
Al 7079-T6
Cadmium (plated)
Uranium
Al 218 (die cast)
Al 5052-0
Al 5052-H12
Al 5456-0, H353
Al 5052-H32
Al 1100-0
Al 3003-H25
Al 6061-T6
Al A360 (die cast)
Al 7075-T6
Al 6061-0
Indium
Al 2014-0
Al 2024-T4
Al 5052-H16
Tin (plated)
Stainless steel 430 (active)
Lead
Steel 1010
Iron (cast)
Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
Nickel (plated)
Chromium (Plated)
Tantalum
AM350 (active)
Stainless steel 310 (active)
Stainless steel 301 (active)
Stainless steel 304 (active)
Stainless steel 430 (active)
Stainless steel 410 (active)
Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
Tungsten
Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
Brass, Yellow, 268
Uranium 8% Mo.
Brass, Naval, 464
Yellow Brass
Muntz Metal 280
Brass (plated)
Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
Stainless steel 316L (active)
Bronze 220
Copper 110
Red Brass
Stainless steel 347 (active)
Molybdenum, Commercial pure
Copper-nickel 715
Admiralty brass
Stainless steel 202 (active)
Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
Monel 400
Stainless steel 201 (active)
Carpenter 20 (active)
Stainless steel 321 (active)
Stainless steel 316 (active)
Stainless steel 309 (active)
Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
Silicone Bronze 655
Stainless steel 304 (passive)
Stainless steel 301 (passive)
Stainless steel 321 (passive)
Stainless steel 201 (passive)
Stainless steel 286 (passive)
Stainless steel 316L (passive)
AM355 (active)
Stainless steel 202 (passive)
Carpenter 20 (passive)
AM355 (passive)
A286 (passive)
Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
Titanium 8Mn
Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
Titanium 75A
AM350 (passive)
Silver
Gold
Graphite
----------------------------------
Passive (Cathodic) End

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Hmmm. Based on that table, I guess I wasted my money on the uranium block heater I snagged at a garage sale. Too bad.