• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

am i cheep ?

Docter

New member
59
0
0
Location
Smyrna, Delaware
I am going to ask something and i hope it wont cheez anybody off.
I am in the middle of redoing my M-37b1 and well the whole brake system needs to be replaced, solid and flex lines and all.
well i was wondering if there were any civilian equivalent for the master cylinder and wheel cylinders. Mine is a 63 but did not know if the 50s power wagons brake parts would fit
I will fabricate the brake lines and routing. its not that i dont want to do it right but funds are limited and did not want to wait forever to get some things done
any thoughts would be appreciated.

youres at arms Doc
 

vtdeucedriver

Well-known member
2,523
38
48
Location
Vermont
Not going to be any cheaper not using the intended master cylinder and wheel cylinders. I am sure you can buy brake line in sections at any good NAPA that will work but by the time you make all the bends and then make the pieces and flared to the right lengith, your going to be farther behind both in time and in the pocket.

Just do what you can and WHEN you can...................you did the hard part, its home and in the yard.
 

axlr8

Member
424
0
16
Location
Rushford MN
Id like to agree with the above. Try original... or new replacement. We redid the brakes on a 87 chevy r10 and well, its way easier to redo brake lines with everything opened up. BUT as stated above, its your choice, time and money. The originals would be best.....my .02
 

Docter

New member
59
0
0
Location
Smyrna, Delaware
thanks for the input, I will stay the course.
maybe one of these days some long lost relative i did not know
will leave me some money, like in brewsters millions.

youres at arms Doc
 

Bill W

Well-known member
1,985
42
48
Location
Brooks,Ga
You could try and rebuild the master cyl and the wheel cyls. ( hone them out first and check for pits before buying parts ) The part# for the napa wheel cyl kits is #6 and the master cyl kit is NAPA part# 1.

If you decide to just buy new than the wheel cyls are 3595 ( drivers side ) and 3596 ( pass side ) remember these are stepped cyls and the larger bore/cup faces the rear of the truck.
New napa master cyl is/was Part # 544 but that might be discontinued item
 

Attachments

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,806
724
113
Location
Liberty Hill, SC
My wife rebuilt the MC in her 1963 M37b1, in our living room! Napa part #1. I think it was like $13...

I also found the wheel cylinder rebuild kits on Ebay, set of 4 for like $25...

How much cheaper are you wanting to go? Brakes are not an area you should think about skimping on...

The 1950 M37 parts fit the 1963 parts, they used the same blueprints. Wish they had used the same quality steel though...

You could buy lines and hoses from all over, and bend, etc. But how much is your time worth? Vintage power wagons has a complete line kit, for like $140. I plan to get a kit as soon as I can, and replace them on Angie's truck.
 
Last edited:

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,124
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
I don't think parts are going to be any cheaper for 50+ year old civvy Dodges than they are for 50+ year old military Dodges.
 

Tanner

Active member
1,013
11
38
Location
Raleigh, NC
Unless you're truly bucking for originality, I'd strongly recommend converting to a dual circuit master cylinder for safety reasons, even if staying with drum brakes. Good effective brakes are kinda important...

'Tanner'
 

Storm 51

Just a Grunt
Steel Soldiers Supporter
888
9
0
Location
Seattle, WA
Brakes and running gear should be new / rebuilt as new and by the book. I don't mean to be too much of a 'downer' but peoples' lives will depend on the safety of your vehicle; and it will be the lives of strangers if it is on the public roads.

Something to keep in mind............:shock:
 

Docter

New member
59
0
0
Location
Smyrna, Delaware
I wasnt planing on being dangerous with the brakes, its just that when i had my M-38a1 the cj-5 brake parts worked very well and they were considerably cheaper at the time. I may purchase the brake line kits, but since i have been wrench turning since the 70s flareing and bending lines arent a big deal. though i will still need to buy the flexible hoses.

youres at arms Doc
 

Storm 51

Just a Grunt
Steel Soldiers Supporter
888
9
0
Location
Seattle, WA
I didn't mean to imply that you weren't taking care but sometimes the safety and liability factors don't get the consideration they deserve. The temptation is always there to let somethging slide just a little bit and it can bite you. I've had a few heart stopping adventures and I don't want any more.

Just saying............... something to think about. :beer:
 
153
0
16
Location
NW PA/ Warren County
The brakes on an M37 are tough to love, even in a totally stock configuration.

The dual M/C (GM product?) conversion will give you a lot of 'bang for your buck'; those M/C's were used on hundreds of thousands of vehicles over the years.

It's just a relatively picky braking system, that really likes constant adjusting, and is built on old technology. (Hey, I'm sure if Dodge built the M37 today, it would have 4 wheel discs.)

I personally tried rebuilding an original wheel cylinder; due to my own incredible cheapness. I suppose it can be done, I didn't end up being very successful. I chose the very best cylinder I had, and attempted to hone it. After all (appeared) perfect, it still leaked after the rebuild kit. Probably something I either did wrong, or didn't do right, but anyways.... Ended up purchasing 4 New Star cylinders from Vintage Power Wagons.

I also thought I would be smart and match up brake hoses at NAPA. After much looking, it is hard to beat the composition of the reproduction hoses on the market today. The part I matched up at my local parts store ended up being roughly $7.00 cheaper than the reproduction ones. And the repros were a heavier rubber composition, and had the spring-wound exterior. And they fit properly.

I hope this helps with your root question.
 

1943ht

Active member
478
94
28
Location
Batavia, OH 45103
Concur on the cylinder / master cylinder replacement .. just finished a rebuild on the brake system on my 53-M37 ..Alabama truck, so no significant rust .. but every cylinder was pitted when I tore them down and the amount of honing I would have had to do to smooth them out would have brought them out of tolerence for the cup in the rebuild kit .. that would have equaled leaky cylinders after all my work .. new(my experience and opinion) is best, safest and cheapest in the long run
 

Docter

New member
59
0
0
Location
Smyrna, Delaware
thanks for all the thoughts and info. its one of the things i like about this site, the ability to bat around ideas and other folks experiences.


youres at arms Doc
 
Top