- 98
- 2
- 8
- Location
- Rochelle, IL
Hello All,
I was tired of continually replacing the "Plunger Style" window washer pump on my Deuce. My experience with these pumps is that they are unreliable and not inexpensive to replace. When faced with replacing this pump for the fourth time in 4 years (the original was broken when I purchased the truck, then I had two more fail), I decided to convert to a (hopefully) more reliable electric window washer system. My two primary goals are (1) low cost and (2) maintaining the original appearance of the M35 window washer system. With those goals in mind, I came up with the following modification. This mod is performed on a Deuce that is already equipped with the standard "plunger style" window washer. You will need to do more work if you have an older Deuce that is not equipped with a window washer at all. There are currently a very few of the components I used still available on the "Bay" but perhaps some enterprising individual can find other sources for them. So here goes...
First, lets take a look at the completed modification.
Photo 1 shows the replacement washer tank, including 24 volt pump, installed on my deuce.
Photo 2 shows the window washer pump actuator as viewed from the operator's position.
Photos 3 and 4 show the electric actuator switch mounted in place of the "plunger pump" on the original washer actuator.
Photos 5 and 6 are of the components needed as found on the "Bay"
Now lets get the parts...
The washer bottle is Government issue, and includes a built-in 24 volt pump. It appears smaller than the original tank but it holds nearly 3/4 gallon when full. It has an NSN number, but unfortunately I didn't think to write it down before installing it on the truck. You have two options here: (1) either ask the seller for the NSN number or (2) be patient and I will unbolt mine and update this post as weather permits. To find it, search for "Washer Bottle 24 V Pump" on the "Bay".
The actuator switch is NSN 5930-00-399-6667 Part Number 7392888. It is ideal because it will fit in place of the original plunger pump on the original window washer actuator assembly. Search for "Part # 7392888" on the "Bay".
You will also need 4 small hose clamps (2 if you replace both hoses with one long hose), available at any hardware store.
And one 1/4" double-ended barb connector to connect the tank hose to the washer nozzle hose. (Or you could replace both hoses with one longer hose that goes all the way from the tank to the washer nozzle. In this case, you will only need 2 small hose clamps).
Miscellaneous small hardware (nuts, bolts, washers and nylon lock-nuts).
Now for the Mod...
Step 1: Remove the stock tank and mounting plate. Remove the stock tank from the mounting plate and set aside.
Step 2. Place the new washer bottle on the plate with the upper right mounting hole aligned with the upper right hole on the mounting plate.
Step 3. Visually position the tank so its top will be horizontal (level from left-to-right) when the plate/tank combination is reinstalled on the truck.
Step 4. Mark and drill two 1/4" holes in the mounting plate using the two top left holes in the new tank for location of the drilled holes.
Step 5. Using two 1/4" bolts, washers and lock nuts (or lock washers with nuts) bolt the left side of the tank to the mounting plate.
Step 6. Re-install the modified tank/mounting plate assembly on the truck in the same location and position as it was originally.
Step 7. Connect the washer hose to the washer pump outlet using a small hose clamp.
Step 8. Remove the original window washer actuator and two "tee" fittings, along with the three short hoses that connect to them, from the truck.
Set these aside. This should leave only two hose ends behind the instrument panel... One coming from the washer pump/bottle and the other
coming from the washer nozzle.
Step 9. Using a small hose clamp, clamp the washer nozzle hose to the washer nozzle (located under the cowl and accessible through the instrument panel opening).
If you do not, the pressure from the pump will "blow" the hose off of the nozzle and spray washer solution all over the INSIDE of the cab! I know
!
You may also need to cut off about 1/2" of hose at the nozzle end to get a snug and leak-proof fit.
Step 10. Using the 1/4" double-ended hose barb, and two small hose clamps, connect the two hose ends together behind the instrument panel and tighten the clamps.
You may need to use a drop of Dawn dish-washing detergent to lubricate the nozzle hose as it is a snug fit on the hose barb.
Step 11. Remove all hoses from the plunger-pump on the original window washer actuator assembly.
Step 12. Using a small drill bit, drill out the two small rivets that hold the plunger-style pump to the actuator assembly and remove the pump.
It will come apart as 4 pieces, the plunger, a small spring, a shell and a rear section holding two small check valves. Set these aside.
Step 13. Using the same small drill bit, drill out the two small rivets that hold the actuator lever to the actuator assembly. This will allow you to install the new switch.
Step 14. Install the switch into the hole vacated by the original plunger-pump with the button facing the actuator lever. The holes in the switch are not an exact
match so you may need to enlarge the holes in the bracket slightly. There is also a small taper on the rear of the switch plate that will not pass through
the bracket hole, but this is not a problem if you use nylon lock-nuts and tighten them so the switch is squarely mounted in the actuator bracket.
Or you could enlarge the hole to accommodate this taper. I didn't find this necessary.
Step 15. Reinstall the actuator lever and locating clamp that you removed in step 13. Secure with small hardware using nylon lock-nuts.
Step 16. Reinstall the modified actuator assembly to the truck's dash in its original position.
Now all that is left to do is to provide +24 volts to one side of the switch, connect the other side of the switch to the + terminal of the window washer pump, and connect the - side of the window washer pump to ground. I used the ground point for the turn signal flasher, which is located on the inside drivers fender near the washer bottle. On the A3, there is an unused circuit breaker under the hood on the firewall near the washer bottle. It is always live, but the only thing on it is your window washer if you decide to use it. It is unlikely that the push-button used in this modification will stick "on" since (1) it is Mil-Spec and (2) it is used as the FIRE button on several armored vehicles. If you have an earlier M35 variant, you may not have this circuit breaker and will need to find a +24 volt source appropriate for your vehicle.
There you have it! Enjoy!
I was tired of continually replacing the "Plunger Style" window washer pump on my Deuce. My experience with these pumps is that they are unreliable and not inexpensive to replace. When faced with replacing this pump for the fourth time in 4 years (the original was broken when I purchased the truck, then I had two more fail), I decided to convert to a (hopefully) more reliable electric window washer system. My two primary goals are (1) low cost and (2) maintaining the original appearance of the M35 window washer system. With those goals in mind, I came up with the following modification. This mod is performed on a Deuce that is already equipped with the standard "plunger style" window washer. You will need to do more work if you have an older Deuce that is not equipped with a window washer at all. There are currently a very few of the components I used still available on the "Bay" but perhaps some enterprising individual can find other sources for them. So here goes...
First, lets take a look at the completed modification.
Photo 1 shows the replacement washer tank, including 24 volt pump, installed on my deuce.
Photo 2 shows the window washer pump actuator as viewed from the operator's position.
Photos 3 and 4 show the electric actuator switch mounted in place of the "plunger pump" on the original washer actuator.
Photos 5 and 6 are of the components needed as found on the "Bay"
Now lets get the parts...
The washer bottle is Government issue, and includes a built-in 24 volt pump. It appears smaller than the original tank but it holds nearly 3/4 gallon when full. It has an NSN number, but unfortunately I didn't think to write it down before installing it on the truck. You have two options here: (1) either ask the seller for the NSN number or (2) be patient and I will unbolt mine and update this post as weather permits. To find it, search for "Washer Bottle 24 V Pump" on the "Bay".
The actuator switch is NSN 5930-00-399-6667 Part Number 7392888. It is ideal because it will fit in place of the original plunger pump on the original window washer actuator assembly. Search for "Part # 7392888" on the "Bay".
You will also need 4 small hose clamps (2 if you replace both hoses with one long hose), available at any hardware store.
And one 1/4" double-ended barb connector to connect the tank hose to the washer nozzle hose. (Or you could replace both hoses with one longer hose that goes all the way from the tank to the washer nozzle. In this case, you will only need 2 small hose clamps).
Miscellaneous small hardware (nuts, bolts, washers and nylon lock-nuts).
Now for the Mod...
Step 1: Remove the stock tank and mounting plate. Remove the stock tank from the mounting plate and set aside.
Step 2. Place the new washer bottle on the plate with the upper right mounting hole aligned with the upper right hole on the mounting plate.
Step 3. Visually position the tank so its top will be horizontal (level from left-to-right) when the plate/tank combination is reinstalled on the truck.
Step 4. Mark and drill two 1/4" holes in the mounting plate using the two top left holes in the new tank for location of the drilled holes.
Step 5. Using two 1/4" bolts, washers and lock nuts (or lock washers with nuts) bolt the left side of the tank to the mounting plate.
Step 6. Re-install the modified tank/mounting plate assembly on the truck in the same location and position as it was originally.
Step 7. Connect the washer hose to the washer pump outlet using a small hose clamp.
Step 8. Remove the original window washer actuator and two "tee" fittings, along with the three short hoses that connect to them, from the truck.
Set these aside. This should leave only two hose ends behind the instrument panel... One coming from the washer pump/bottle and the other
coming from the washer nozzle.
Step 9. Using a small hose clamp, clamp the washer nozzle hose to the washer nozzle (located under the cowl and accessible through the instrument panel opening).
If you do not, the pressure from the pump will "blow" the hose off of the nozzle and spray washer solution all over the INSIDE of the cab! I know
!You may also need to cut off about 1/2" of hose at the nozzle end to get a snug and leak-proof fit.
Step 10. Using the 1/4" double-ended hose barb, and two small hose clamps, connect the two hose ends together behind the instrument panel and tighten the clamps.
You may need to use a drop of Dawn dish-washing detergent to lubricate the nozzle hose as it is a snug fit on the hose barb.
Step 11. Remove all hoses from the plunger-pump on the original window washer actuator assembly.
Step 12. Using a small drill bit, drill out the two small rivets that hold the plunger-style pump to the actuator assembly and remove the pump.
It will come apart as 4 pieces, the plunger, a small spring, a shell and a rear section holding two small check valves. Set these aside.
Step 13. Using the same small drill bit, drill out the two small rivets that hold the actuator lever to the actuator assembly. This will allow you to install the new switch.
Step 14. Install the switch into the hole vacated by the original plunger-pump with the button facing the actuator lever. The holes in the switch are not an exact
match so you may need to enlarge the holes in the bracket slightly. There is also a small taper on the rear of the switch plate that will not pass through
the bracket hole, but this is not a problem if you use nylon lock-nuts and tighten them so the switch is squarely mounted in the actuator bracket.
Or you could enlarge the hole to accommodate this taper. I didn't find this necessary.
Step 15. Reinstall the actuator lever and locating clamp that you removed in step 13. Secure with small hardware using nylon lock-nuts.
Step 16. Reinstall the modified actuator assembly to the truck's dash in its original position.
Now all that is left to do is to provide +24 volts to one side of the switch, connect the other side of the switch to the + terminal of the window washer pump, and connect the - side of the window washer pump to ground. I used the ground point for the turn signal flasher, which is located on the inside drivers fender near the washer bottle. On the A3, there is an unused circuit breaker under the hood on the firewall near the washer bottle. It is always live, but the only thing on it is your window washer if you decide to use it. It is unlikely that the push-button used in this modification will stick "on" since (1) it is Mil-Spec and (2) it is used as the FIRE button on several armored vehicles. If you have an earlier M35 variant, you may not have this circuit breaker and will need to find a +24 volt source appropriate for your vehicle.
There you have it! Enjoy!
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