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Another brake issue

ICAT

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4
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Location
Idaho
Ok, 1988 M35A2, dual brake system. First, Rebuild both air packs because i had brake fluid blowing out the vent tube. After rebuild, bleed brakes. When i bled rear brakes, pedal goes to the floor, when I bled the front brakes, pedal stops about 2" from floor. I'm doing the the 2 person method of bleeding. I'm Thinking, major/minor brake adjustment. Any other guidance?
 

Mullaney

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Ok, 1988 M35A2, dual brake system. First, Rebuild both air packs because i had brake fluid blowing out the vent tube. After rebuild, bleed brakes. When i bled rear brakes, pedal goes to the floor, when I bled the front brakes, pedal stops about 2" from floor. I'm doing the the 2 person method of bleeding. I'm Thinking, major/minor brake adjustment. Any other guidance?
I would think that if the peddle feels "solid" at two inches from the floor - adjusting the brakes - shoes to drum is what needs to happen to move the peddle up. There are two adjustments on those shoes. One at the top and a cam at the bottom. Your goal is even shoe contact to as much of the drum as possible. IE: If you just adjust the top of the shoe out toward the drum, the peddle might improve BUT you won't have "full contact" and braking power will suffer.

If you haven't ever adjusted these brakes before, I know it sucks but pulling the wheels and drum on at least one hub will let you see the inner workings and better understand what you are trying to accomplish.
 
Last edited:

ICAT

Member
211
4
18
Location
Idaho
the pedal stopped 2" from the floor when i was bleeding the brakes. i have good pedal but i can stand on the pedal and it takes along time to stop. That why I was thinking major/minor adjustment.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,347
19,032
113
Location
Charlotte NC
the pedal stopped 2" from the floor when i was bleeding the brakes. i have good pedal but i can stand on the pedal and it takes along time to stop. That why I was thinking major/minor adjustment.
So, I don't have a Deuce. Gotta say that up front. HOWEVER, you did say you were bleeding the brakes. That leads me to an Air over Hydraulic system type of brakes. Might be a stupid question - but before you started bleeding - were the inside of the wheels (on the backing plate) wet at all? A leaky wheel cylinder (wet shoes) will cause crummy braking. A leaking wheel seal with 80/90 gear oil leaking on the shoes will cause crummy braking.

A bad (even brand new old stock) brake booster can cause the peddle to feel hard and not do much at all to stop the truck. As a matter of fact, the Deuce with Air over Hydraulic braking will NOT stop on even a slight down hill run if the air gets below 60#. This type of braking system isn't like a full air brake system where there is a spring chamber that automatically applies the brakes if air pressure drops below acceptable levels. The Deuce Air over Hydraulic does NOT do that.

There is a short (compared to most) Technical Manual about just the brakes on a Deuce. Located here on the site:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/deuce-dual-brake-system-tm.90155/
 
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