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another M923a2 with a fuel issue

FM5332FF

Member
560
7
18
Location
Labelle, FL
so I've replaced everything in my fuel system, all new 8an hose and fittings, two additional wix filters, and a new lift pump, I've pressurised the fuel tank with air to bleed the system, I have solid fuel coming out at the bleeder behind the fuel filter, a solid stream coming out at the 10mm bleeder on the injection pump, replaced the overflow valve and the hose that returns to the fuel tank and still no start the electric solenoid plunger is in the proper position. any ideas?
 

simp5782

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How much pressure is on the injector side though? Have you had your pump or injectors tested? They arent known to go bad but they do. The timing gears also shear off their cam, pump, or crank positions


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WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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Do you hear the overflow valve hissing when you use the primer pump? If not, there is no fuel there. If you do and you measured the FSOV pull in distance, remove the cap on the front cover and see if the gear is loose. If all seems good there, put it in time and check pump to engine timing. If that is good and you still have zero delivery, a pump or injector repair is in order, an injector can introduce cylinder compression into the pump if the pintle spring weakens or breaks.

A tidbit of info, very rarely, even with a P pump, I have seen a no start with everything correct. Don't know why, but all it took was a short shot of starting fluid and the pig fired. After that all was well. You do not need to crack lines on Bosch inline pumps to bleed air, they are self priming. If all of your timing checks are good and you hear the fuel hissing at the overflow valve when using the primer, try a SHORT shot of starting fluid and see what happens
 

Andyrv6av8r

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I physically got up there and checked before and after cranking it over.
Just for the heck of it I would either remove or ziptie the fuel solenoid in the retracted position. And here is my story why. My 932A2 has Always started at the first bump of the switch. After having the truck sit about 3 weeks recently, I tried to start and it just kept cranking but didn't want to catch and run. After some troubleshooting I decided to ziptie the solenoid back. As usual, it fired up at the first bump of the switch. Thinking the hold coil had gone bad in the solenoid, I ordered a new one, installed it and guess what; same scenario. And then the true problem hit me. My batteries were just low enough to not keep the cutoff retracted with the hold coil. So I charged my batteries, installed the original solenoid and it's been starting fine ever since. As a second resort, Follow Will's advice and shoot some ether in the intake snorkel to see what happens.
 
Last edited:

JDToumanian

Active member
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Phelan, CA
...try a SHORT shot of starting fluid and see what happens...
I like the emphasis on SHORT... The ether start system on my HEMTT works excellent, and since Detroits tend to be cold blooded under about 40 degrees, I use it (at least until I get my block heater installed). But before the first time I did, I wanted to see how much it put in (it's a 2cc shot size). I took the hose off the intake and activated the switch... It just gives a tiny 'psst', you wouldn't believe it's enough for a 736 cubic inch engine. It left me believing that most people doing it manually use way, way too much.

Jon
 

FM5332FF

Member
560
7
18
Location
Labelle, FL
Alright, I got it running today, I removed the cutoff solenoid and tried to start the truck, still no luck, so I re bled the system there was no air up to the injection pump, I gave It a quick spray of either and it fired off but quickly died, I did it again with the same outcome, the third time was a charm, it started to run on its own, ran rough for a little bit then all the air cleared out and it now runs awesome. I let it sit for about 5 hours, went back to start it again and it fired right up. Thanks all for the help.
 
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