Another way to Bob a Deuce!

[rat4spd]

So.... who would like to order one of my "welded frame Bobbed Deuces" ??? Better hurry, they are of limited supply!!!







We need a 'welder' smilie--- maybe a little guy in a welding helmet striking an arc...

It's all good. I wouldn't be afraid of it Hundy.

 

[skull bone]

Need a outlet in pa.... Ps. i can weld

 

[91W350]

I volunteer to drive one for as long as you will let me! Glen

 

[KsM715]

It needs a flitch plate that extends from one frame to the other around about the area where the spring mounts connect. The fasteners for the flitch plate should be in the center area (web) of the frame, not on the flanges. Rivets are preferred.
It also needs a piece of box channel spanning the top of the tunnel cut in the trailer frame cross braces.

-Chuck

Is a "flitch plate" just a plate that extends from the deuce frame down to the 105 frame and bolted or rivited in the center of the respected frames? Would you still bolt the 105 frame to the deuce frame through the bottom of the deuce frame? I take it that that is what you mean by the "flange" (top and bottom of the channel) and the web is the side?

Edit: add crude (very crude) drawing.

Something like this? Please forgive my 3 min. MS paint drawing.

 

[stumps]

Is a "flitch plate" just a plate that extends from the deuce frame down to the 105 frame and bolted or rivited in the center of the respected frames? Would you still bolt the 105 frame to the deuce frame through the bottom of the deuce frame? I take it that that is what you mean by the "flange" (top and bottom of the channel) and the web is the side?

Edit: add crude (very crude) drawing.

Something like this? Please forgive my 3 min. MS paint drawing.

Yes, your drawing is a good representation of a flitch plate. More fasteners, though. I would let the flitch plate extend to cover about 2/3 of the deuce's web and 2/3 of the 105's web.

Given four flitch plates, I wouldn't be at all worried about the fillet weld that is currently holding the two frames together. The flitch plate has to overlap all of the weld, though. It needs to be fastened on both sides of any stress risers that result from the weld. The flitch plates, would do the entire job. No weld would be required.

As to terminology, consider the frame a blocky "C" shape. The flange is the top and the bottom of the "C". The web is the vertical part of the "C". The flange's purpose is to keep the web straight and vertical. The web's purpose is to provide most of the load carrying capability of the beam that is the frame rail.

-Chuck

 

[Bob H]

So.... who would like to order one of my "welded frame Bobbed Deuces" ??? Better hurry, they are of limited supply!!!

I bet your liability carrier would love to have one.........

 

[mdmorgan]

It needs a flitch plate that extends from one frame to the other around about the area where the spring mounts connect. The fasteners for the flitch plate should be in the center area (web) of the frame, not on the flanges. Rivets are preferred.
It also needs a piece of box channel spanning the top of the tunnel cut in the trailer frame cross braces.

-Chuck

I was thinking that also, But why not through the flanges? Like 1 bolt 1/2" dia 'bout every 6" or so?

 

[wldrbob]

well you could but its a pain in the @@@@ to drill that way

 

[jesusgatos]

Those flanges are what's carrying the majority of the load the framerails will carry. So you don't want to weaken/stress those flanges. The vertical part of the framerails is a lot less critical, so you can drill through them without too much concern.

 

[stumps]

It probably would be ok since you are bolting two flanges together, and in effect reinforcing the flange....

The safest place to drill holes, weld, make changes, etc.., is dead in the center of the web. It isn't doing much of anything but taking up space and adding weight.

This is not to say that the web isn't doing anything important, it is. If it wasn't there, the flanges would be a pair of floppy pieces of steel, incapable of even holding their own weight without drooping. The web keeps the flanges apart, and allows them to act as major tension and compression members, and the flanges keep the top and bottom of the web from buckling, and allow it too to be a major tension and compression member.

Take a 11 inch long 2 inch wide strip of paper, and observe its characteristics. Then bend the top 1/4 and the bottom 1/4 so it is shaped like a frame. Notice how much stiffer it became.

-Chuck

 

[mdmorgan]

I understand the benifits to bends in metal, and said tension and compression stresses, i'm an aircraft sheet metal mechanic, currently supporting the war fighter fixing and repairing the mighty C-130 hercules. (sorry, kinda proud of that) anyways, thanks for the replies, i think i know what i'm going to do when i get around to it, $.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

mdmorgan love that pic. Wish I was the pilot on that plane.awsome

 

[KsM715]

No reason to be sorry for being proud of helping to maintain the C-130. I got to ride in a few traveling back and forth between saudi and kuwait back in the 90's when I was in and loved every flight.

 

[stumps]

I understand the benifits to bends in metal, and said tension and compression stresses, i'm an aircraft sheet metal mechanic, currently supporting the war fighter fixing and repairing the mighty C-130 hercules. (sorry, kinda proud of that) anyways, thanks for the replies, i think i know what i'm going to do when i get around to it, $.

Cool! That is a noble endeavor if there ever was one!

When I write, I try to write for the broader audience. I sometimes will go into a little more detail than might be necessary for the person I am answering, in hopes that some other reader will benefit.... Then I cross my fingers and hope that I haven't offended the guy I was answering.

All of our posts live forever on the internet. Everything we write on SS can be read by anyone with a simple google search.

-Chuck

 

[mdmorgan]

Cool! That is a noble endeavor if there ever was one!

Thank you, i do love my job.

When I write, I try to write for the broader audience. I sometimes will go into a little more detail than might be necessary for the person I am answering, in hopes that some other reader will benefit.... Then I cross my fingers and hope that I haven't offended the guy I was answering.

absolutely, and no offence was taken, i've read alot of your posts and you seem to be a really smart guy and i appreciate any and all replies.

 

[100dollarman]

The bobbed Deuce is TITLED!!! In my name, Historic Ca. plate. $151 in fees. VIN verify, no weight cert, no weight fees.

Easy Squeezy, Lemon Peezy.

(Got an A3 done the same way, too!)

 

[stumps]

Wahoo! Now it's time to go haul cinder blocks over hill and over dale and see how it performs.

-Chuck

 

[Billy Bobbed]

The bobbed Deuce is TITLED!!! In my name, Historic Ca. plate. $151 in fees. VIN verify, no weight cert, no weight fees.

Easy Squeezy, Lemon Peezy.

(Got an A3 done the same way, too!)

Is there any benefit to the Historic plate.I have 7,000# plates. It was the same price.I would still pay every year the same price.Then I have to have a state trooper check it out and sign a paper to give me to give to the license brance.

 

[100dollarman]

Wahoo! Now it's time to go haul cinder blocks over hill and over dale and see how it performs.

-Chuck

you wont find ME driving that death trap!!!

 

[100dollarman]

Is there any benefit to the Historic plate.I have 7,000# plates. It was the same price.I would still pay every year the same price.Then I have to have a state trooper check it out and sign a paper to give me to give to the license brance.

It seems like many of the states are a little different---- I dont think we have a 7000lb plate here in Kali. ?