Another way to lower an M1101/M1102

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oregonfirefighter

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Medford,Oregon
WE have 9 M1101/ M1102's and we had a good fab shop cut the pintle hitch off and lower them 4 or 5"?? I will try to get some photos first part of the week. We tow these with 3/4 and 1 ton Fords and they ride level. I have noticed a few seem to drag, thinking I MUST check the wheel bearings!
 

Landbarger

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Patrick County, VA
So from what I read you did not do one of the trailer axle to frame of trailer. Thats what Im looking at doing. You said something around 5 inches? I guess if I remove the shocks completely I dont know what the ride difference will be. Im wanting to keep the factory 37's.
Has anyone tried this?
I'm about to attempt something along those lines. Trying to follow 1stDeuce's method, but I'll post whatever results I end up with.
 
741
4
18
Location
North Carolina
m11011_LI.jpgWell I notched the mounting bracket. Drilled holes to mount axle.I moved the axle flush with bed 5 inch drop complete. I will mount the tires and take some pictures tomorrow. I think the shocks will fit back on also. Kind of a fun project not the easiest thing but start to finish for me probably 4 hours.
m11012_LI.jpgI ground off the rivets and removed the L shaped bracket with the blue x on it. and mounted axle to trailer frame.
Hopefully the op doesnt mind if I use his pics....
20170211_180724.jpgIMG-20170212-WA0011.jpgSlammed.... Havent installed shocks yet... Its probably pointless to.
 
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Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
..and mounted axle to trailer frame.
Uh, you glossed over this part a little...

Mounted how? Glue? Bolts? Rivets?

I haven't been under mine in a while but if the frame is a big rectangular tube, how did you get a nut or bolt inside it?

With the trailer level, what is the tongue height off the ground?

Thanks for the write-up! I'm still debating whether I need mine lower than what I'll get with 16" wheels.
 
741
4
18
Location
North Carolina
24 inches to the bottom of the ring. I measured in gravel so it might be a hair over. The axle has a mounting bracket. I bolted thru the sides just like it was factory. and where it mounts to trailer bed Im going to drill thru trailer bed and run a carriage bolt thru the frame havent done that part yet.
20170213_150538.jpg20170213_150652.jpgThe black wiring loom is in the way of where the other mounting bolt would go straight up.
 
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741
4
18
Location
North Carolina
If i could get some cheap 15 inch 8 lug wheels. The trailer would be super low. Its really a workable height now after lowering 5 inches. Probably about the same as a half ton pickup bed maybe lower.
 

tobyS

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If i could get some cheap 15 inch 8 lug wheels. The trailer would be super low. Its really a workable height now after lowering 5 inches. Probably about the same as a half ton pickup bed maybe lower.
Wow, I can't figure why people would change from this 8 lug to a 6 when it is a standard Dexter and Ford 8 lug wheel.

I went the opposite way, using HMMWV wheels and tires on my Dexter axle (and 105 bed).
 

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741
4
18
Location
North Carolina
Ive loaded it probably around 2k before stock. So should be about the same I would think. Now that I have a worn out xterra to pull it with Ill probably never go past 2k in it.
 
741
4
18
Location
North Carolina
Wow, I can't figure why people would change from this 8 lug to a 6 when it is a standard Dexter and Ford 8 lug wheel.

I went the opposite way, using HMMWV wheels and tires on my Dexter axle (and 105 bed).
The 105 bed is wayyyyy Stronger than the m1101. I never would of bought the m1101 if I knew I could dent it with my fist... Especially for firewood. Love the hummer tires.
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
I bolted thru the sides just like it was factory. and where it mounts to trailer bed Im going to drill thru trailer bed and run a carriage bolt thru the frame havent done that part yet.
Sorry for another question:

So right now the axle is only attached at the sides, and not on top (up through the frame rail)?
 
741
4
18
Location
North Carolina
Yes just temporaily Im not using it like that. I will drill all the way through and bolt through frame rail before i use it. It would probably be fine the way it is. I just want it as strong or stronger than factory. I just wanted to make sure tires didnt rub. There is still 2 inches inside wheel well.
 

ChemicalSFC

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Alabama
I have delayed lowering my M1101 by moving the axle mount up to the frame while hoping someone else would try it first. Now that it has been done, I anxiously await your report on how the lowered trailer tows without shock absorbers.
 

tobyS

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I worked at a company that made torsion axles in Jackson Ohio.

I don't think a one had shocks. Freezing rubber with liquid nitrogen is cool. Our biggest customer was Airstream. I don't think I ever saw one bouncing down the road.

Dexter makes them too and none I have seen have shocks. Until I saw the 1101 and 1102, I had never seen shocks on a rubber torsion axle. I'd be concerned with hitting the wheel well while loaded.
 
741
4
18
Location
North Carolina
I havent seen a picture of one with some with weight in it. ive laoded mine pretty full. I dont remember it squatting much. I think it would take 2k pounds to squat it where i would be concerned about being close to wheel well.
 

tobyS

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My guess is, the rubber in the 1101 is a bit shorter than the 1102. These axles are a square within a square and the rubber is pressed and frozen into a triangle shape, then put together in one fast move. As the rubber comes up from about -250f, it expands to fill the four corners. The longer the rubber and inner member (a solid bar about 2" square) inside the outer member, the more resistance to turning and thus the higher weight rating. They look identical on the outside but the 1101 would have less inner length and a lower weight rating. I don't think I'd do this to an 1101 if I planned on carrying a lot of weight, the axle will travel farther than the 1102.
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
My guess is, the rubber in the 1101 is a bit shorter than the 1102. These axles are a square within a square and the rubber is pressed and frozen into a triangle shape, then put together in one fast move. As the rubber comes up from about -250f, it expands to fill the four corners. The longer the rubber and inner member (a solid bar about 2" square) inside the outer member, the more resistance to turning and thus the higher weight rating. They look identical on the outside but the 1101 would have less inner length and a lower weight rating. I don't think I'd do this to an 1101 if I planned on carrying a lot of weight, the axle will travel farther than the 1102.
The M11101 and M1102 trailers are identical. The only difference is the data plate. Both trailers have the same weight capacity; the numbers on the data plate are for the soldier to determine whether his vehicle is allowed to tow it.
 

tobyS

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The M11101 and M1102 trailers are identical. The only difference is the data plate. Both trailers have the same weight capacity; the numbers on the data plate are for the soldier to determine whether his vehicle is allowed to tow it.

I see a consensus that they are the same. It would be interesting to see inside the axle. Only a few inches would change the rating and it's in a spot that cannot be seen. I wonder if the manufacturer says they are the same. I understand the reasoning, re the tow vehicle authorization.
 
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