Artisan's M916

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Artisan

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Several years ago when the first of the M915 "Series" of trucks we being released before I was born here
many incredibly talented men (the Old Guard I call them ;-) ) grabbed these monsters
and posted up how to's and like, like they were going out of style.
The wealth of information one can find here is great. Extremely time consuming but
there are some real nuggets. The old guard, for the most part less a few hold outs have moved on,
bought bigger or more toys and or have just lost interest or sold or suffer from forum burnout.

I so wish there was a forum dedicated to these trucks and as good threads are found
they were moved into it. The 5 TON forum has grown HUGE.

The M915 Series of trucks as I know it is the M915 , M916, M917, M918, M919, M920 - A1 A2 A3

I am going to post my thoughts for others and for reference w/ emphasis on the M916.

I hope this thread stays on point w/o a lot of useless banter. Try to
stick to the facts, and please correct me if I am wrong. There are other
threads and many went astray.

___________________________________________________


On the PS and DS of the truck outside there are two electrical outlets.
BII for the M916 was a flood light to be used there. I wish I could
find one priced right. I wrote Hubbell Co. and I got the spec's on
those plugs so we can buy the plugs and make our own goodies.

The female connector on the bottom is what should connect to the trucks male recessed outlet.

The majority of the electrical components on these trucks are 12VOLTS, so are there these plugs;

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-b-datasheet.asp?FAM=Locking_Devices&PN=HBL7465V

HBL7465V -- Twist-Lock Valise Plug
b4_7465v_diagram.JPG


http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-b-datasheet.asp?FAM=Locking_Devices&PN=HBL7464V

HBL7464V -- Twist-Lock Valise Connector Body
b4_7464v_diagram.JPG

 
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Artisan

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This should have been my first post... ;-)

Here are the Technical Manuals. If anyone finds updated manuals or
other pertinent manuals please send to me.

I would implore the SS forum owners to copy these files, make sure they are OK
and upload them permanently, labeled properly into the TM area for all to use.
They will not be on my server forever.

OPERATORS MANUAL -10

HAND RECEIPT MANUAL -10HR

PARTS MANUAL -24P

ORGANIZATIONAL MAINTENANCE -20

DIRECT SUPPORT AND GENERAL SUPPORT MAINTENANCE -34

BIG CAM 1 & 3 TM 9-2815-225-34&P

LUBRICATION ORDER -12

MODIFICATION WORK ORDER -20-1

TRANSPORTABILITY GUIDENCE -14

TECH BULLETIN ARMORED -P1

TECH BULLETIN ARMORED A/C -P2

TRACTOR TRAINING PROGRAM -6

M915 ELEC SCHEMATIC HOME MADE

M916 ELEC SCHEMATIC HOME MADE

M916 INSTRUMENT PANEL HARNESS




A big THANK YOU to member "runk" for e-mailing me some of these files!
WAY TO GO keeping the thread ON POINT and clean. :)
 
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Artisan

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Munrovia Kailfornia
Transfer case service

TRANSFER CASE SERVICE

This needs to be done, I drained my TC and there was some thick goop
in there that needed to come out. There are actually TWO drain
plugs and TWO fill ports for that TC. Do not just pull the plug
on the lowest drain, unscrew that whole tee fitting because there
is a filtering screen in there that needs to be serviced. Pics
tell all;

TC-bottom-screen-drain.jpg

This screen is poorly illustrated in the TM.
There is one fill plug, not pictured here, that I had to order up
a 5/8" Allen Wrench just to open it. I replaced it w/ a 1" brass
raised head NPT regular plumbing type of plug to make it easier
to service in the future.

The T/C takes 2 quarts of 80/90 thru the top
fill port on the DS and 3 Quarts on the PS.

I believe it says to fill the DS first.
 
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Artisan

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Munrovia Kailfornia
Esteemed member r_racing (currently MIA from the SS forum and we want him BACK!)
pioneered the addition of a Filtering Air Pressure Regulator mounted in
front of an Oil Mister for the CAT 7155 . There are many posts on this
but none tell exactly how to do it and it is really simple. Just buy the
two devices, here are the part numbers;

parker-m916-filter-regulator-oiler.jpg

In the above pic you see the two mated w/ an o-ring situation between the two units.
In my book that is asking for a leak. The two units come w/ 3/4" NPT female threads
so all's you need to install these are 2- 3/4" x Shoulder brass nipples, some Teflon
tape and dope, get a 1/4" BACK OUTLET air gauge of perhaps 160PSI max too.
DO NOT ALLOW ANY TEFLON TAPE OR DOPE TO ENTER YOUR 7155 OR YOU WILL BE
VERY VERY SORRY.
I grabbed McMaster's #1338 gauge but in the future I will buy an expensive fluid filled
no freeze sealed gauge.
Buy some Air Tool oil of your liking, I selected McMaster's P/N 1298K54 low temp oil because
it will probably be available thru them for a long time and mixing oils can cause
issues.

In freezing weather I believe this filter should be heated. If it is full of water
it could blow if the water freezes so be forewarned;

Here is my install set to 95 PSI;

Pressure-regulating-filtering-mister.jpg

Note the two brass nipples. After I did this I strapped the air feed
line to the tranny, it was vibrating but good, no more.


The instructions are in the boxes, but to set the air pressure pull UP on the big
black knob and turn it till you hit 95 PSI then push down on the knob. Do this
AFTER the trucks air tanks are already full.

The oil mister setting is easiest if someone sits in the drivers seat, engine running,
air pressure up and simply shifts thru all gears back and forth while parked w/
Parking Brake SET ON. Soldier B now adjusts the oil mister by turning the top
adjustment knob, Soldier B will see oil GUSHING or just a little oil as it is being
distributed into the air feed line to the 7155, adjust it way down to your liking
or at first flood it good. Your Call...
 
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Artisan

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Munrovia Kailfornia
You want to MAKE SURE that the Modification Work Order was indeed
done on your truck. It adds another air tank on the PS, under the frame
so the truck has more air. This tranny does NOT function if the air pressure
drops below 60PSI I believe and it will pop into NEUTRAL I believe
if air pressure drops. In post 3 I think it is I have a link to the Modification
Work Order...
 

Artisan

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Munrovia Kailfornia
If you have any plans on using an M916 for pulling a semi-trailer make SURE you know what your
up against prior to buying one. As I understand it, the "Normal" distance from the ground to
the top of a commercial 5th wheel plate is about 47" . The M916 is 50" from the gound to the
TOP OF THE FRAME! Now add another good 11" or so for the 3.5" 5th wheel plate and
4" for the spacers and you have about 64" or so of difference and THAT causes issues!
The max height allowed is 13-6" unless you have a permit...

The stock kingpin diameter on an M916 is 3.5", the "normal" kingpin
diameter for a civilian truck is 2" so you must modify to use, or more accurately "attempt"
to use civilian trailers. DO YOUR HOMEWORK. These trucks were basically designed
to pull an M172A1 trailer, well, as I understand it, that trailer alone is WIDER then
laws allow, so you will need a permit EVERYWHERE you go !

After a lot of research including talking to engineers at Holland, and in an attempt at building
a truck that is somewhat all encompassing I plan on doing the following;

PULL THE REAR RAMPS
PULL THE 3.5" 5TH WHEEL PLATE
PULL THE SPACERS UNDER THE 3.5' 5TH WHEEL PLATE

Were down to a bare frame now. How you up-fit is up to you
but I will do the following till I have need to do different;

INSTALL A 2" 5TH WHEEL PLATE OFF AN M932A2 TRACTOR.
(It has 2" capability and it is oscillating w/ oscillating lockouts)
If you plan on ON ROAD use only forget the oscillating option, I
want the opion w/ lock-outs to prevent oscillation. The 5th
wheel plate off an M932A2 will fit on the base of the OE
3.5" 5th wheel BUT it does not have lockouts so I will drill
the outboard angle iron and mount the Oscillating 2" from
an M932A2 on to my M916 by way of drilling a few holes, not
in the frame, but in the outboard OE Angle Iron. Should be sweet!

Removal of the ramps and the OE 5th wheel plate looks easy but
those nuts and bolts are on there but good. I broke a 1.125" open
end wrench in the process. It went flying and dented my camper!
In the end I took a Craftsman 1.125" combination wrench and
cut it in half, and I used the box end w/ my 48" or so of cheater
bar and a 3/4" impact once things were broke loose to get them off.


A sliding, oscillating 2" 5th wheel bought new would be nice, but all the parts new
are almost $10K....believe it.

Changed my mind...If I go w/ the M932A2 set up w/ the oscillating lock outs I have
to drill the angle iron, like 8 holes. If I stick w/ the OE base and just switch
the plates I have no holes to drill, so I will see how it goes w/o the lock outs.
the lockouts are available to weld on but they cost $450.00 !

Here is the OE plate coming off;

3and-a-half-off.jpg

Here is the OE Kompensator base ready for the 2" plate;

base-to-frame.jpg

To swap in a 2" 5th wheel plate the easy way once you get to
the point pictured directly above is to simply buy the
following 5th wheel plate from SafHolland, as originally engineered
by I believe it was member SONI, here is that model #;

safholland.jpg
 
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Artisan

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Munrovia Kailfornia
BATTERIES + BATTERY COVER STEPS/HANDLES

These trucks were all OE'd w/ the 4 massive 12V batteries the DOD likes to buy.
They are EXPENSIVE and IMO, not needed. Now if I were to run into
some of them for a song and a dance I might jump on them but
I can't dance and my singing gets me thrown out of church, so,
what I decided to do was to simply use 2- Sears batteries, I think
they are something like a B-14 Marine battery.
The truck starts instantly with them. They fit perfect back there too!
I may be thinking differently in a cold climate but for now I am very happy
w/ just 2 batteries. I reconnected the Slave Port as well.

batterys.JPG battery-wood.JPG
I turned the left-over, and now generous space, leftover in my battery box
into a storage box after I got my 2 batteries situated.
I placed the 2 batteries in a row, long ways, parrelling the frame
and all the way to the back after I first put in a board in to prevent the
batteries from falling out of the truck towards the center of the frame.
Then I cut a piece of wood to keep my metallic stuff away from the batteries
and to keep them in their place thru bumps in the roads. Doing it
this way leaves you enough room for 4- 50 Cal Ammo cans and
a Harbor Freight pneumatic jack
(more on the jack later) . It really
is a sweet set up.

battery-box-storage-1.JPG battery-box-storage-2.JPG

Anyone who has pulled and replaced the battery compartment cover
will tell you "IWISH IT HAD HANDLES! " , well, I added handles
and it makes life SO MUCH EASIER w/ them!

cover-step-handle.jpg

Additionally those steps are HUGE TALL and my wife being the petite' living angel
that she is, can safely only do small steps, so I added a piece of grip-strut and
I have plans to extended the 7" wide OE grip-strut type of plate
on the front PS fender, rearwards. Extending it rearwards as far as I can so there is
one more step for her so she can hop in/out w/ ease.

cover-step-handles.jpg
 
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Artisan

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Munrovia Kailfornia
M916 MUD FLAPS

The replacement part number for a proper set of M916 Mud Flaps
from Betts is ;

FH B23 - FLAP HANGER SET
JK 2436HD - HEAVY DUTY RUBBER FLAPS
FH RT25 - Conspicuity Strips (optional but a LEO could write you up w/o them as I am told)

They are a .62 square reducing male end, type of hanger. The M1070 units will not swap / work
and I think the other I tried was the M931. Stock was a coiled hanger, tapered pin, w/ hole
for a cotter pin to keep the units from jumping out and that is exactly what I spec'd herein.

I was told I might not be pleased w/ the heavy duty flaps due weight being told the up and
down movement due to the "heaviness" of the flaps will make them bounce bad
but to date, no complaints from me so far.

mud-flaps.jpg
 
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Artisan

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Munrovia Kailfornia
CAT 7155 TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL PROCEDURES PER L O 9-2320-273-12

"Level should be checked, with engine off,
but two minutes after engine is shut off,
daily, hot or cold.

Drain oil, change breather and clean screen
every 50,000 miles or 12 months.

Refer to TM-9-2320-273-20 for procedure.
Fill through dipstick opening with 22 quarts.
Maintain oil level between ADD and FULL marks
on dipstick. Do not overfill.

Change case breather if required.
Refer to TM-9-2320-273-20 for procedure."


1- The L O says to use 22 Quarts of HDO / OE "10" w/
HDO / OE = "Lubricating Oil, Internal Combustion Engine Tactical Service, MIL-L-2104C"
(for ABOVE +32Degrees F and +40Degrees F to -10DegreesF)

2- The L O says to use 22 Quarts of OEA w/
OEA = "Lubricating Oil, Internal Combustion Engine (Arctic) MIL-L-46167"
(for 0Degress F to -65Degrees F )

ANY OIL GURU'S HERE ?????????????????????????????????
THIS IS 34 YEARS OLD! TRYING TO FIND AN SAE 10 WEIGHT OIL IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE!
CAN YOU GUYS MAKE SOME HARD SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHAT OIL WE SHOULD RUN IN
THE CAT 7155 TRANNY THAT SUPERCEDES THESE STANDARDS ???











 

jonesal

Mission Specialist
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I highly recommend you secure that loose steel in your battery box. If you hit a big enough bump/hole/etc. - anything jumps behind on top of the battery (especially those feet) - disaster... I am also not seeing battery hold downs? Same thing applies.

Al Jones
'84 M923
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,718
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63
Location
Munrovia Kailfornia
I highly recommend you secure that loose steel in your battery box. If you hit a big enough bump/hole/etc. - anything jumps behind on top of the battery (especially those feet) - disaster... I am also not seeing battery hold downs? Same thing applies.

Al Jones
'84 M923
Very good eye Al, but when the lid is on there is only 1/4" gap between the top of the
wood isolation board that you see in front of the batteries so impossible for steel parts
to migrate. The closed outer door makes everything fit extremely tight, no shifting
can occur. Not pictured are my telescoping cheater bars, 3 of them nested inside each other
for easy lug nut removal that holds down all 4 ammo boxes.

The batteries, if you look, you can see perfect sized wood blocks I cut that
keep them from sliding and indeed a couple straps have been mandated already
and indeed are on the drawing board.* When I strip it to paint the wood isolation boards I
made I will secure to zero movement. I used wood on purpose too.
Even now there is no issues, it is tight and the lid has pins so nothing can go up and down,
I appreciate the input.

*Having said all that I am now considering moving the batteries to the DS eventually anywho. There is a massive
area behind the 110 Gallon fuel tank screaming for a LARGE storage box(s) . Moving the batteries
will get their cables off of potential abrasion areas too, like the 12V feed wire, I think it is a #8 wire,
it just lays on top of the tranny. I do not like that.
 

redstroke

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MI
Artisan,

Did you find a current equivalent for the transmission oil? How did the plate conversion turn out? Did your height stay the same? I would like to do the same to mine to haul a tanker for manure.

CAT 7155 TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL PROCEDURES PER L O 9-2320-273-12

"Level should be checked, with engine off,
but two minutes after engine is shut off,
daily, hot or cold.

Drain oil, change breather and clean screen
every 50,000 miles or 12 months.

Refer to TM-9-2320-273-20 for procedure.
Fill through dipstick opening with 22 quarts.
Maintain oil level between ADD and FULL marks
on dipstick. Do not overfill.

Change case breather if required.
Refer to TM-9-2320-273-20 for procedure."


1- The L O says to use 22 Quarts of HDO / OE "10" w/
HDO / OE = "Lubricating Oil, Internal Combustion Engine Tactical Service, MIL-L-2104C"
(for ABOVE +32Degrees F and +40Degrees F to -10DegreesF)

2- The L O says to use 22 Quarts of OEA w/
OEA = "Lubricating Oil, Internal Combustion Engine (Arctic) MIL-L-46167"
(for 0Degress F to -65Degrees F )

ANY OIL GURU'S HERE ?????????????????????????????????
THIS IS 34 YEARS OLD! TRYING TO FIND AN SAE 10 WEIGHT OIL IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE!
CAN YOU GUYS MAKE SOME HARD SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHAT OIL WE SHOULD RUN IN
THE CAT 7155 TRANNY THAT SUPERCEDES THESE STANDARDS ???











 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,718
112
63
Location
Munrovia Kailfornia
Artisan,

Did you find a current equivalent for the transmission oil? How did the plate conversion turn out? Did your height stay the same? I would like to do the same to mine to haul a tanker for manure.
Well, the tranny oil, I have decided to try AMSOIL this time. This second
the truck is at a shop getting a new tranny stuffed in it so were gonna
go w/ the AMSOIL from jump street BUT, member NDT came up
w/ a very inexpensive possible solution from Oriellys Auto Parts.
Look for a 74209, I think it is available in a 5 gallon and a one
gallon ( 7155 needs 5.5 gallons) The LO calls for a 10 Weight,
we "think" the Priellys is a 10-20 or so, THAT needs to be verified.

I have not completed the plate yet. Things are up in the air at this second.
I did remove the ramps and the 3.5 plate, I do have an M932A2 plate
but I would need to redrill all holes and I would loose weight capacity.
Lots to think about, including my wallet currently... I "might" want to
sell my 2" plate, I do not know but it would be perfect for off road.
it is a Kompensator WITH lockouts. My first trailer is a pintle
so no need for me to hurry.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
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112
63
Location
Munrovia Kailfornia
I finally found the answer to my own question regarding the
Transfer Case Cooler Pump (TCCP) and the mysterious "Spacer" the
TM poorly illustrates but indeed talks about and lists a part
number for.

The deal is, if you are in cold temperatures below "X" degrees
you are suppose to disengage the TCCP by installing this
spacer between the drop box and the pump, essentially
disengaging the pumps shaft from the drop box so the pump
simply does not turn.

The TM illustrates it poorly and I was not sure what I was looking
at but dang if I didn't find this mystery spacer and I bought it.
Upon arrival I see it is dimensionally different than the
other, installed, parts.

I can now only deduce that my truck came w/o this mystery spacer.


I believe you are supposed to install this on the far outside of the pump
if in warm weather so the pump turns and you swap it in close
in cold weather so the pump does not turn.

As to weather or not the OE bolts are long enough I do not
know this minute. I can tell you this spacer is .450" thick.


When I have time I will pull one of the OE bolts and see if I need
to buy 4 longer bolts.

Ta Daaaaaaaaaaaaaa;

TC-Cooler-Spacer.jpg

Now, FWIW, here is a picture of my TCCP as I received the truck.
The part in the center, Part "B", is very close to .700" thick.
this spacer I have is .450" thick so I believe I am 100% here in
saying indeed the spacer did not come with my truck, it is
missing and the part I have above is what is needed in
cold weather so the T/C does not get cooled.

Does your truck have this or not? You need to know... :)

TC-Cooling-Pump-2.jpg
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,718
112
63
Location
Munrovia Kailfornia
Were you having problems with the tranny that was in it?

Old, please excuse me, I didn't see this till today.

OK here is the deal;

I received my truck and not knowing how a CAT 7155 is "SUPPOSED" to perform
I was unsure if my tranny was bad or not. I was pretty sure the clutches were bad
but I have never even seen a CAT 7115 let alone drive it and of coarse no one
I know or who I have talked to knows about it so I am on my own here.

After him-hawin' around I purchased a couple of new 7155 trannys from GL
and I decided to find someone to stuff one in the M916 for me. I looked
at buying a Tranny Jack to lift the 1200 pound beast and I read the TM
and looked at it and I determined it was indeed something I could do
BUT, fate intervened.

I got a great price from Precision Allison Transmissions (P.A.T.) in Upland, CA to
install my CAT 7155, yes you read that right. These guys at P.A.T. are
AWSOME, they are old school, there shop is perfect, they have a dyno
and they do things right. They even have a dyno and as I understand it
they receive ALLISON trannys from all over the country, repair them and
dyno them and ship them back to folks almost daily.

So I get the truck back and SWEET! Indeed the new trannys clutches are
a LOT different then what I had so I made the right decision. I am glad
I got to cruise around w/ a bad tranny though, it taught me how to
drive these things. You do NOT lug these trucks, you get it up
to 1750 RPMS before you think about shifting. The trick is to keep
the clutches engaged .
 
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