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Aux starter solenoid

branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
I bought a 1998 M1078 that’s a non-runner I replaced the batteries I’ve check all the fluids and replaced all the circuit breakers with fuses. I get a click from the relay in the fuse panel but I got nothing from the starter. I used the hand jack and I got the cab tilted forward and I’ve found that the auxiliary starter relay is gone and the associated wiring is there and disconnected.

My question is can anyone help me identify a part number for the Auxiliary starter relay? Is there a quick retrofit part I can use? Something I can pick up at the local parts store.
 
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branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
I bought a non runner.... 1998 M1078

So I took a gamble and I bid on a 1998 M1078 that was listed as non running. I could see from the pictures it needed work on the drivers door and it had some minor cosmetic issues. I called and asked if the GovPlanet rep would please cage the brakes so the shipper could load it on their low boy. GovPlanet was a ton of help and the truck arrived yesterday. I pulled it up my driveway with my M923A2 and chalked all 4 tires. The truck came with 4 Hawkers dated 6/17, but I’d already purchased 4 group 24F batteries. I swapped the batteries and found that the Aux starter solenoid was completely gone, someone had borrowed it. Superman told me any 24v Solenoid would work so I ran to Napa and I picked up a Napa Part# ST88 solenoid and it’s working as it should. The truck started on the first push of the starter button. I’m majorly excited. I uncaged the brakes and I drove it around the block. I like it and I’m excited to get the drivers door fixed and make some impovments to it.
 
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branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
For comparison sake I find the LMTV to be a bit bouncy like almost excessively so. My M923A2 is a completely different animal. The LMTV interior is much more modern than my 5 Ton. I’m pretty excited to have the LMTV running and driving. I payed $4000 for it and I put about $550 into getting it running. Another positive is that the CTIS is working and all the tires appear to be brand new and the spare is absolutely brand new. The hydraulics all appear to work also. The odometer shows 1675 miles and I verified it does work, I still highly doubt the low mileage.
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,154
5,828
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
If it were me I would put those exceptional Hawkers back in and put the car batteries in something else. Congratulations on scoring a great truck. Spend a little time looking for other items that need PM.
 

branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
If it were me I would put those exceptional Hawkers back in and put the car batteries in something else. Congratulations on scoring a great truck. Spend a little time looking for other items that need PM.
I have the Hawkers in my garage charging right now so far they have all taken a charge and they appear to be fine. I agree about putting them back in. I won’t have to fabricate new battery hold downs if I run the Hawkers and they are probably much better batteries.
 

FloridaAKM

Well-known member
2,699
392
83
Location
Gainesville, Florida
Run the Hawkers until they die, you have already paid for them, so put them back in & button it up. The other batteries will serve you well in another application that is probably non military related. Mine have been in the truck for almost two years & work fine.
 

branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
I’m making a list of items that I need to get the truck totally road worthy. If you guys have any of the following items let me know. I may pull the front driveline and get it rebuilt it has a little slop in the slip yoke.

My goal for this truck is making it one of my daily drivers. I’ll use it and my 5 Ton to get around. I have a Ford F-350 crew cab that fits all four members of my family, I’ll still use it to pull our toys but for everyday use taking the kids to school and running errands my goal is splitting my time between my two military trucks. I’ll get my wife comfortable driving the LMTV and we can convoy together.

Needed M1078 Parts:
Drivers interior door panel.
1 Interior window crank and door handle
exterior door handles
Front grill
 

branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
I had a set of LED headlights I’d originally purchased for my 5 Ton they were off brand units from Amazon they’ll except voltage from 10vdc-30vdc. Before I got them installed in the 5 Ton my wife surprised me with a set of Truck-lite Military LED headlights so I still had the Amazon set in my parts stash. I installed them in the LMTV today I’m happy with the outcome, they appear to be decent quality and the light output is good.
 

branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
Being as this is my first LMTV are all the bed side sections interchangeable including the tailgate? I have a couple sections that have three hinges and a few that only have two. I’m getting the impression I have a miss match of bed sides and tail gate.
 

branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
So I've got a small treasure trove of parts ordered. I have ordered the following.

Front drive-line
Interior door panel
Two sets of interior door handles
5 drive shaft u-joints so I'll have spares
1 Cab Air Bag
Upgraded metal exterior door handle replacements
Tiger Tool U-joint puller
Torque Multiplier
30" breaker bar
2-20 ton bottle jacks
And a lot of misc accessories from Amazon and E bay.

I plan to replace the fluid in the front hubs and I'm going to double check the levels on the differentials, I'd like to add some Lucas oil stabilizer to both differentials.
 

branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
Where did you get your interior door handles? I need the window crank handles as well! Thanks!
I did purchase some Volvo handles and they do fit very well. I also found a vendor that’s parting a truck out and I purchased the stock interior door handles from them. I have extras now but I don’t think this will be my last FMTV so I like having spares.

I’ve been working on her (My wife calls it Lucy) for the last couple days. I’m still waiting on a few parts to show up. I went through the engine and checked everything for tightness. I drained the front hubs and put in Lucas oil stabilizer. I greased all the zerks I could identify. I double checked all the fluids. I installed 3 aux LED lights forward facing on the cab. My wife touched up the paint a little and I replaced a few of the marker lights that were either cracked or hazy. One thing I’ve noticed is that a lot of the electrical connectors have dry rotted and are in jeopardy of crumbling to pieces, my 1990 M923A2 doesn’t have this problem they must have used a different rubber compound.

I’ve been working with GovPlanet to get my SF97 it’s a slow progress, I did get it insured through the same State Farm agent who covers my 5 Ton. I’ve been up and down the street with it but I can’t wait to daily drive it once I get the title and registration complete.
 

branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
The Alternator on my 5 Ton failed on Sunday so I ordered a Delco replacement and a bracket to make it fit correctly. It’s killing me to have them both not able to be driven at the moment I hate relying on my civilian pickup.
 
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branr1

Member
49
2
8
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
Why don’t you see more trucks coming out of service with the CTIS Wheel covers installed? We’re they not a popular item when the trucks were in service?
 
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